Air Box mod pics and valve mod

[sportrider1296]

This is some pics of the air box mod that I worked on this morning at 3 am because I became board. Man I hate when that happens! Anyway I did the usually drilling and hacking like the brock website describes and I desided to eliminate the valve on the bottom side of the box. I used a piece of the flapper valve that I remove since it is the same material as the box and melted it to the box using my hot air plastic welder from harbor freight ($29)! Or you can use a soldering iron. It was easy and eliminated a very small amount of weight. Just thought I would post for others to maybe consider. Now off to bed, tired. Any questions just ask.

 

[sportrider1296]

This is the bottome side where the pair valve vaccum tubing hooks up.

 

[NightCrawler]

I used the flapper to cover the bottom (outside) of it and used silicone to hold it in place. As backup, I used a Gatorade top and cut the rim in half so that it wouldn't stick so high up(from the size bottle shown below) to cover the hole on the inside ... again using silicone to hold it.
<img src=http://dining.cornell.edu/imagesX/C-store/gatorade.jpg>

 

[Got-Busa?]

Why do that when you might need that hole for a Nitrous nozzle....

 

[JROCK]

NICE JOB

 

[USMCBUSA]

I am gonna be the tard here and ask why you mod your airbox? I know I will get bashed for this but I don't know.

 

[sportrider1296]

Hey spigga, nice idea with the back-up top. Silicone probaly won't fail you anyway. The main reason I done this (weld the hole up) is that I got the plastic welder for x-mas and just had to try it. USMCbusa, from what I have read the air box mod is for people that have modified their bikes from stock. Meaning they have a full aftermarket exhaust systems (not slipons) usually 4-2-1 set-ups, k&n or bmc air filters, TRE, and of coarse power comanders. Basically you open up the airway that feeds this beast of a motor. Take out your air filter and see how small the rectangular hole is that the intake is. You will see that there is a triangular shaped area, where the rectangular hole is glue or welded in. This is what comes out. In conclusion, you are going to double the size of the air opening that feeds your busa. This results in more "potential for power" if you have the right amount of fuel to use it. I will let you guys know when I test to give my opinion, raining outside 100%

 

[Aquaman]

I am gonna be the tard here and ask why you mod your airbox? I know I will get bashed for this but I don't know.
[/QUOTE]
I'll give ya a little back up....
I have no clue either......

 

[sportrider1296]

What don't you understand about the airbox mod?

 

[badboysbailagnt]

why do you get rid of the flapper valve

 

[sportrider1296]

You do not have to remove the flapper valve, but if you cut out the box around it then it basically is useless from there on. You shave a few ounces without the flapper and valve, but you would never miss it.

 

[badboysbailagnt]

so you did it to clean it up in there sounds like me

oil cooler dont need no stinkin oil cooler lol

 

[Leo]

In conclusion, you are going to double the size of the air opening that feeds your busa.  This results in more "potential for power" if you have the right amount of fuel to use it.

I believe that is why he did it...

 

[drbig]

Good day fellas. Been reading this forum some time now after buying a mint stock 05 busa a couple of months ago.
I am wondering if anybody has pinned the flapper open with no other mods to the airbox. I used to have a cbr954rr with a similar flapper in the airbox and managed to get rid of the low rpm stumble by pinning the flapper open. I have no interest to open the airbox, just to make the flapper inoperable.

Thanks in advance!

 

[The Big Red One]

The flapper is there to give the busa more low end, it controls the airflow and air volume of the airbox to give good low end without compromising top end. The only thing you'll gain by pinning it open is losing low end. Its open anyway whenever the throttles more than partially cracked.
If you are going to do anything to it just do the small box mod and remove it. You'll lose some low end, but according to some might gain a little bit more up top. Personally I like the busa's low end grunt, my fav part of the bike, and I wouldn't do anything to take it away......even if it meant possibly gaining a couple ponies up top. I'd rather have the strong low end than a possible few ponies you prolly won't even feel up high.
There's been guys on here that have done the small box mod....then missed the low end response and bought another stock box. Do a search before you start messing with your airbox too much

 

[drbig]

Thanks, I love the low end too, so I let it be!
Is it responsible though for a jerky transition just off idle?

 

[The Big Red One]

No unfortunately the jerky response off idle is just a fuel injection thing. Lots of stock fuel injected bikes have it to some degree or another. A power commander with a bad map, worn cush drive rubbers and/or chain and sprockets, too much throttle cable freeplay, out of synch throttle bodies among other things can make it much worse tho. Its a trait of the bike, and the big, torquey motor just makes it more noticeable. My 04 has done it since brand new. I've ridden bikes that were much worse tho :O

 

[karnage]

I just left the actuater in there and sealed it.Works fine.I drilled mine as well then cut it out then used my dies grinder to massage it smooth.You should notice a big difference.I did.