Clutch Engages (1st-2nd gear only and no further) no power in those two gears

AlaBusa86

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I recently rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder just as a precaution and even bought braided hoses. I also replaced the clutch and plates along with the oil. While out riding the bike felt like it was slipping and eventually stop engaging all together. I eventually was able to get bike on side of road and saw my oil boiling in sight glass. I tried several times to engage the clutch to no avail. I allowed the bike to cool down and tried and got it to engage I. 1st -2nd gear but then it did a God awful grind when attempting to put in any higher gear. I just pulled the engine and split the cases and found the 3rd-4th gear dogs chipped. What do you think caused the issue in the first place that wouldn’t allow me to have power? It is a 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa with 40000 mi on the odometer.

sixpack577

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Did you bleed the line and have good lever pressure/clutch engagement before you left on the ride?
You should be able to shift up and down without using the clutch(only using clutch in 1st from a stop), letting off the throttle, and applying light pressure on the shifter, but, a normal shift when the clutch should have engaged, but didnt, would cause a rough shift, and chipped the gears.
Did you vacuum bleed the clutch line?
It sounds to me like it had air in the line, not just tiny bubbles, but a pocket.
Air will move towards the end of the line, and you will lose pressure in the process.

AlaBusa86

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Yes it had a good hard clutch. I rode it in to work a couple days prior to this happening. It’s possible that there was a little air in the lines though. I tried the vacuum bleeding but I will re-bleed the system after I replace the transmission gear and I also purchased the factory pro evo s92 shift star. I plan on replacing the oil pump and rebuilding water pump since I am already this far into it. I may look into rebuilding the clutch master cylinder again as I did notice a little drippage every now and then at the master cylinder.

sixpack577

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Yes it had a good hard clutch. I rode it in to work a couple days prior to this happening. It’s possible that there was a little air in the lines though. I tried the vacuum bleeding but I will re-bleed the system after I replace the transmission gear and I also purchased the factory pro evo s92 shift star. I plan on replacing the oil pump and rebuilding water pump since I am already this far into it. I may look into rebuilding the clutch master cylinder again as I did notice a little drippage every now and then at the master cylinder.

If you had a noticeable drip at the master cylinder, then that is what happened, air got into the system until you lost pressure, then that clutchless shift chipped the gear.

AlaBusa86

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Thanks! Will be putting it all back together once the parts arrive on Saturday. I have it all disassembled currently and look forward to putting it all back together…..with new parts in these hard to get to areas as well.

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AlaBusa86

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I went back to the original color.
Schnitz Racing Slipper Clutch Ring
New Clutch Kit
Heavy duty springs
Ape Racing Clutch Support Bracket
Air Box Mod w/ K&N filter
Kanji fairing bolts
Kanji taillight Hotbodies LED undertail
Retractable billet clutch and brake pedals
Sixty61 chrome billet clutch cover
Billet stator cover
LED underglows
LED license plate bolts
Chrome Handlebars
Chrome grips
Chrome switch covers
Chrome brake and clutch reservoir covers
Galfer Braided clutch and brake lines
Chrome mirrors
Chrome chain cover
Chrome Hayabusa etched underbelly cover
Custom seat covers
Chrome rear grab bar
Kanji seat bolts
Kanji rear seat bolts
Chrome triple tree/Dash/dash filler kit
Delevic chrome dual exhaust
Silver wheel decals from Ace Vinyls on Etsy
Chrome Hayabusa decal kit from eBay
Transmission purchased from eBay
Shift Star from ebay
Chrome windshield
Fairings from fairinglever on eBay
Vortex chain sprocket
Chrome frame covers from eBay
Chrome/black kanji valve stem caps
Chrome 3D kanjis
Custom kanji 220 mph gauges
LED headlights/switchbacks
Billet foot pegs
Chrome fairing grille set
Kanji gas cap
Chrome kanji clutch/brake levers
Arashi front/rear rotors
Rebuilt clutch master cylinder
Rebuilt clutch slave cylinder



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AlaBusa86

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I have a question to anyone that may know. If the motorcycle sits and idles until engine gets to operating temp, the motorcycle seems to not want to shift. Almost seems like it’s a slipping clutch. Prior to it warming up it shifts fine. What could this be? I’m stumped! I will rebleed clutch. I’m wondering if it’s the clutch basket or oil pump though? Any ideas?

Bumblebee

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I found out what the issue was. I had installed the heavy duty clutch springs and it wasn’t allowing the clutch to release fully. I replaced the springs with the factory ones and issue is resolved.
I never even thought about the springs but I've heard this happen a lot of times....

Years ago the clutch in my race bike was changed out and the tech put in heavier springs....I had nothing but trouble on the test rides and they had to change the springs back.....

AlaBusa86

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I never even thought about the springs but I've heard this happen a lot of times....

Years ago the clutch in my race bike was changed out and the tech put in heavier springs....I had nothing but trouble on the test rides and they had to change the springs back.....
Yes. I originally thought my transmission was bad and even went and parked the bike until I could save for the transmission. I bought it, installed it ( with the help of Willis Racing on YouTube), and it still rode the same after everything warmed up. Turned out to be the Ape Slave cylinder support bracket ( wasn’t allowing pushrod to fully extend I guess), heavy springs that came with the schnitz racing slipper clutch ring, and last but not least, the thermostat was sticking!!!! The thermostat was the first thing replaced and everything else was found through months of research and troubleshooting.
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