Who knows stopping distance from 150 mph?

OK and how would you propose I get a picture of my rear end off the ground while I am doing this? :laugh:

In all seriousness I have got my rear end "light" probably 6 times. And I do routinely practice my emergency stopping scenarios. I have gotten comfortable with finding that edge where I just get that point between lock-up and just before. It sometimes requires feathering the lever on and off, but you definitely build confidence by practice. I also practice 2 -Up as that changes everything.

My goal is not to lift the rear off the ground. I want as much tire contact as possible when braking. I know the rear is only about 30% of my braking power, but in an emergency braking situation, that extra 30%.............

Gopro mount on the swingarm.... If you don't have dual exhaust you can get a cool view on the chain side.
 
Let's hear what the pro has to say, but I would think it would be more in the safety of the stopping in that distance than the actual distance itself. It could prolong the stopping distance if you do not have as much control due to lack of suspension action.

Really good question! Fear of the front brake is the reason street riders rarely develop good braking skills.

Why not incorporate safety and reduced stopping distance into your skill package? It actually works that way. The higher the skill level the safer you are, no? Everyone who owns a busa knew before the purchase that the throttle was attached to a speed demon. And, the first thing they did was test the throttle. Now maybe years later, they still haven't tested the brakes. They will pay for instruction on how to launch at the drag strip but never consider how to stop effectively on the streets. They are perfectly willing to spend big bucks on Brembo Hydraulics and steel brake lines when they have no idea how to properly maximize the OEM brakes. Total waste of money and in my view, makes the rider far more likely to end up on his head. The average guy would be much better off to spend his brake money on improving his braking skills.

If you have properly set your bike up, you cannot lock the front tire on clean dry pavement (Oh I can hear the arguments already). The rear tire will lift from the pavement long before the tire gives up grip, but only if the brake is applied properly (We are talking straight line braking. Corner braking is an entirely different subject). YOU, can learn this skill if you are willing to put the time and effort into it.
 
We are all talking (I am assuming) about stopping in a straight or a fairly straight line.

An interesting topic might also be having to do an emergency stop in a decent lean. (Without oil on the rear tire, but that's a prior story). :laugh:

An example might be on a blind curve and a deer jumping across in front of you or coming around a turn into a scene of an accident.
 
Tuf, can you expand a bit on why bottoming the forks affects stopping distance?

I'd be happy to share.

As we all know, when we apply the front brake the forks load and collapse. The more brake pressure we apply the more load is transferred to the forks & tire. We want the tire loaded. The more we load the bigger the contact patch becomes which means more traction. This sequence works extremely well until the forks bottom out. Once the forks bottom out the only suspension we have left is within the flex of the tire. We have already loaded the tire to the point there is not much flex available. This causes the tire to skip. You'll feel it in the bars as the tire momentarily locks up as it encounters bumps or inconsistences in the pavement. The first time this happened to me I thought I had a bent rotor. That's exactly what it feels like. At this point the tire is likely to lock up completely. If you are not off the lever quick the results will not be pretty.

What I would suggest is to put a ziptie on one or both fork legs. This will tell you exactly how much travel (if any) you have left after braking. There are some tricks you can use to increase fork tension but that's for another thread.
 
OK and how would you propose I get a picture of my rear end off the ground while I am doing this? :laugh:
............

Oh gezz, that's an easy one. When you wife lets you out of the yard on your bike, have your girlfriend bring a camera. Place her in a place near the end of your braking zone and snap a few photos. We will be patiently waiting!

But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, don't forget to drop the girlfriend off before entering home territory. Forget this step and the end results can have a direct effect on your handsome face that will last forever! :laugh:
 
My goal is not to lift the rear off the ground. I want as much tire contact as possible when braking. I know the rear is only about 30% of my braking power, but in an emergency braking situation, that extra 30%.............

The rear brake is an important part of bike control during hard braking. It can be your friend or your mortal enemy. That's another subject matter.
 
We are all talking (I am assuming) about stopping in a straight or a fairly straight line.

An interesting topic might also be having to do an emergency stop in a decent lean. (Without oil on the rear tire, but that's a prior story). :laugh:

An example might be on a blind curve and a deer jumping across in front of you or coming around a turn into a scene of an accident.

There are few emergencies that DON'T include use of the brake. Lack of braking skill is a mitigating factor in most crashes. I tell every student: If you can only develop one skill, make it the brakes. It's the most powerful component of your motorcycle and the most likely skill that may eventually save your life!
 
It's got enough jugs to make two great bikes, plus a Harley ;) When he asked for head bolts for his BD, I knew he was serious about the 170 club.
Stopping from 150 is still stopping, Dodge, Suzuki, or anything else moving that fast.

Deferring to the experts, it appears a perfect 150 MPH run on a bike would take right at one half mile total. That's something most people will never do. I suspect it would be impossible at full load on a Gen 1.

If anyone would like to post pointers on the stopping part, I would find that information useful.
Drag Chute :poke:
 
Hot damn, we finally got someone to do a google search :cheerleader:

I did a google search as well before I posted this thread. I think 1108 feet is a fair number. Since I have never measured the stopping distance I really don't know how far it takes for "ME" to stop from a buck fifty. However, I can tell you that I've performed a stop from that speed then looked back at my brake marker and it was a long fn way, I'd guess around a thousand feet or so.

The answer to the question is: There is no correct answer! Braking is a learned skill and the stopping distance depends entirely on the skill of the nut behind the bars. If we took everyone who has dropped in on this thread and had a braking skill test we would find a broad range in the stopping distance. Our beloved busas will burn speed much better than you may think. However, there are some requirements we must meet in order to tap into her maximum braking zone. First is the laws of physics "You MUST load the tire before you work the tire" Second, we must provide her with enough grip to lift the rear tire without loosing traction and last but not least she must have enough fork spring resistance not to allow the forks to bottom out during maximum braking. Follow these rules, improve your braking skills with practice and you'll be pleasantly surprised how quickly you can burn speed. Your life may one day be hanging in the balance with total dependence on your braking skills.

I'd suggest everyone take time to test their braking skills from whatever speed they intend to ride. At least give the mind a reference point to work from when the need to burn serious speed raises it's ugly head. Also, I bet everyone who does a few braking drills from high speed will be bit more careful about where and when they decide to twist the throttle into the triple digit zone once they are aware of actual stopping distance, then imagine how far you would tumble if you fell down at that speed. :whistle:

It's been a fun thread. Thanks for playing along! :beerchug:


I knew it :laugh:
 
You are a wise man to pick and choose where and when you get your high speed jollies off. However, just like crashes, you don't get to pick and choose when you need more skill than you have. This is why its so important to develop good sound braking skills. Practice stopping from whatever speed. Start out gingerly and work up from there. No one would expect a full on power stop from high speed the very first time. With practice your skill level will increase and your confidence on the brakes will soar! Give it a try Tom. I think you'll enjoy the journey once you begin. And, how bout some photos when you reach the point you can lift the rear with confidence.

Personally, I practice quick stops on most every ride. I have worked so much on braking that my right forearm is an inch larger than my left.

Right :whistle:

:laugh:
 
We are all talking (I am assuming) about stopping in a straight or a fairly straight line.

An interesting topic might also be having to do an emergency stop in a decent lean. (Without oil on the rear tire, but that's a prior story). :laugh:

An example might be on a blind curve and a deer jumping across in front of you or coming around a turn into a scene of an accident.

5 years ago I rode like that. If I can't see around the corner my speeds are low and I'm thinking about how and where to go. The last option is simply scrubbing off all the speed I can before impact.
 
So Tuff, do you think your age has had an effect on your braking distances?

It's a shame Hos, that we grow old so soon and wise so late!

And to answer your question "I doubt it"!

SteveO Stoppie 3.27.10.jpg
 
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