I'd really like to hear what EBC has to say about that...so please do elaborate.
When you brake aggressively from really high speed to really low speed, as in 150 to zero, a significant amount of heat is being generated. As was pointed out, the kinetic energy you are trying to convert into heat is proportional to the square of the speed. The heat is generated at the point of contact - where the brake pad meets the rotor. Most of the generated heat is absorbed by the rotors, and they in turn transfer the heat to the air. Some of the heat gets transferred to the pads, then to the calipers, and then to the air. The rotor's ability to absorb a certain amount of heat greatly depends on its thickness. IIRC, a new rotor has thickness of 5.00 mm, but over time it gets thinner as it is being worn off by the pads. I think the official limit is 4.50 mm. Even being slightly thinner, let's say 4.85 mm, such rotor will perform just fine in terms of slowing the bike down. However, its ability to immediately absorb heat from really aggressive and prolonged braking is noticeably reduced. While the new rotor with 5.00 mm thickness could probably handle 150 to 0 quick stop, but barely - the thinner rotor is not able to quickly absorb the same amount of heat, thus causing the contact area temperature to rise momentarily to above the melting point. It may last 0.01 sec, but this is enough to melt a tiny layer of the rotor and only in one spot. Because the rotor is moving, such melting creates a streak which can be observed with a naked eye as a barely noticeable grove.
Go to your bike and carefully look at your rotors, guys and girls, and see whether your rotors are smooth and uniformed or have light streaks - like someone carved a channel with a diamond when the wheel was rotating. Most likely there are some streaks present. You may think that it could be the result of debris getting between the pad and the rotors, but it's not. Those are the signs of a melted rotor. You probably didn't pay attention, didn't inspect your pads, and simply were lucky to get away with it. Maybe because the extent of the melting was very little.
And while you are at it, why don't you measure the thickness of your rotors with a micrometer and report back. I'd be curious to know the thickness of your rotors and how many miles and track days it has.
I also would be curious to know how often MotoGP guys or other racers change their rotors.
Here is a shot of how the melted rotor material deposited itself on my pads. Notice that those are not just polished looking spots on the pads - they have silverfish looking color.
As you can see, substantial area of every pad was damaged in this way, thus greatly reducing the stopping power of the pads.
More commonly known glazing of brake pads occurs when only the brake pad material is affected. The consequence of that is not as severe because it's still a brake pad material against steel rotors, and not partially steel and partially brake pad material against steel rotors.
I know exactly what to do if your pads are glazed - if anyone cares to know.
BTW, for all my troubles, EBC sent me a set of HH pads (4) and a set of HH PRO pads (4) for free. Both sets have been used up, and I was not impressed with the PRO set - it was incrementally better stopping power than regular HH pads, and incrementally better feel than HH pads - and almost double the price of HH pads.
And speaking about pads, one of the coaches recommended to use Vesrah JL pads (JL is analogous with HH, and RJL is analogous to HH PRO), and I can tell you that even JL pads provide better stopping power then HH pads, and provide better feel than HH PRO pads. I could consistently make the rear wiggle under extreme braking - which never happened with EBC pads. The only issue I noticed with Vesrah pads was that they perform poorly when cold - and I mean completely cold, not even warm.
