what mods can a busa handle without a PC??
- Thread starter sproket
- Start date
air filter. slip ons. sprockets, tre or gps mod, speedo healer.
all you need is to do the marble mod that should take care of your backfiring
some will disagree but i believe this also to be the case that even on a stock bike a pc will help.
it smooths out the rough edges so to speak.
its possible , i think it would be on which bike that was done too if it would make a difference since one can react a different way than another with the same setup
my ideal to this is the pc would smooth the throttle all the way threw with a good map.
my ideal to this is the pc would smooth the throttle all the way threw with a good map.
Spro,
This bike is fuel injected. That means no 02 sensor in the exhaust system. That means this engine is a pump. WOT the bike all day long without a pipe and it will run forever. It wouldn't care how fast (sprockets) it spins up, or cares about back-pressure at WOT. FI parameters do not read exhaust gasses in an open loop bike like the Busa. Therefore, there is no rich or lean (changing a pipe) going on with all the parameters functioning as designed.
Perfect fuel quantity is happening every 8 engine cycles. It's a perpetual fuel feed split in half. While the first 4 rotations fire off, the computer captured the next sensor parameters for the next 4 cycle rotations, or the 2nd firing of the 8 engine cycles.
You're listening to cold air hitting hot air (think thunder) in the open exhaust. Same cold air is getting sucked in by a stock exhaust, but muffled.
Like thepushercg says, the pc will wash the crisp throttle response the FI handles so well.. "so to speak".
The cry for another map that doesn't work; when each cylinder is fed individually by the FI parameters. It's like playing roulette getting it close, if not a touch rich when the ECU plots an ideal 0 (perfect fuel quantity) and the pc is locked at +5 (too rich) on that cylinder... "so to speak".
Add (pc) fuel and lose gas mileage. Add fuel and the flame-front slows down because the perfect mist is now firing off fuel globules. The (FI) fuel/air ratio is compromised. The power is compromised = smoother running.
Air Cleaner will help smooth air flow. The (IAP) sensor will feel the difference and correct... so will you, (feel the difference).
TRE, GPS mod, S-Healer will harvest ECU codes. Nuff Said.
This bike is fuel injected. That means no 02 sensor in the exhaust system. That means this engine is a pump. WOT the bike all day long without a pipe and it will run forever. It wouldn't care how fast (sprockets) it spins up, or cares about back-pressure at WOT. FI parameters do not read exhaust gasses in an open loop bike like the Busa. Therefore, there is no rich or lean (changing a pipe) going on with all the parameters functioning as designed.
Perfect fuel quantity is happening every 8 engine cycles. It's a perpetual fuel feed split in half. While the first 4 rotations fire off, the computer captured the next sensor parameters for the next 4 cycle rotations, or the 2nd firing of the 8 engine cycles.
You're listening to cold air hitting hot air (think thunder) in the open exhaust. Same cold air is getting sucked in by a stock exhaust, but muffled.
Like thepushercg says, the pc will wash the crisp throttle response the FI handles so well.. "so to speak".
The cry for another map that doesn't work; when each cylinder is fed individually by the FI parameters. It's like playing roulette getting it close, if not a touch rich when the ECU plots an ideal 0 (perfect fuel quantity) and the pc is locked at +5 (too rich) on that cylinder... "so to speak".
Add (pc) fuel and lose gas mileage. Add fuel and the flame-front slows down because the perfect mist is now firing off fuel globules. The (FI) fuel/air ratio is compromised. The power is compromised = smoother running.
Air Cleaner will help smooth air flow. The (IAP) sensor will feel the difference and correct... so will you, (feel the difference).
TRE, GPS mod, S-Healer will harvest ECU codes. Nuff Said.
Man you know what my favorite movie is? Good Will hunting...........
Remember the scene where Will is in the bar and this smart ass Blondie kid in his first year at Harvard starts spouting off about economics. Trying to impress the girls with all his knowledge and theories he learned in 6 weeks. Damn, all these post from 2busa is just a great flashback.
I love that movie!
Remember the scene where Will is in the bar and this smart ass Blondie kid in his first year at Harvard starts spouting off about economics. Trying to impress the girls with all his knowledge and theories he learned in 6 weeks. Damn, all these post from 2busa is just a great flashback.
I love that movie!
adamnflorida
Registered
lmao...
You know which scene I like? When Will pushes the paper against the glass and says, "You like apples?' ....'How do you like them apples!"
28 years being a (dealer level) motorcycle line mechanic, 16 years roadracing semi-pro in National events, and drag racing for another 5 years. Seems where ever I go, I have to prove myself.
It's up to you to pick and choose the answers that make the most sense. Remember, I'm not the one taking a chance dropping my bike off for service to some stranger who's mechanical aptitude is in question. Sounds like your average dealership to me. I've seen them come and go in my career. Nothing has changed. My sympathy goes out to you.
Sproket, It's called, common sense. No one sees a tre triggers a "fail-safe" mode (terms taken from the shop manual). No one comprehends the bloody screams for a different PC map download. I love that "good (Luck) hunting," pounding on the widow for a phone number (map)... It's a comedy; Watching a rich running PC disrupt a perfect running bike, knowing the PC is building carbon on the piston domes.
Oh yeah, I scoped the cylinders/walls thru the spark plug holes, found carbon builds quickly on the piston, using a TFI or PC... We are talking (carbon buildup) within hundreds of miles. So, as your overly rich daily drivers build up excessive carbon, I'll be here explaining the waste of money you're spending to reinvent the Busa's Fuel Injection system.
You now what we used to say at the shop?... "Ain't my bike!"
28 years being a (dealer level) motorcycle line mechanic, 16 years roadracing semi-pro in National events, and drag racing for another 5 years. Seems where ever I go, I have to prove myself.
It's up to you to pick and choose the answers that make the most sense. Remember, I'm not the one taking a chance dropping my bike off for service to some stranger who's mechanical aptitude is in question. Sounds like your average dealership to me. I've seen them come and go in my career. Nothing has changed. My sympathy goes out to you.
Sproket, It's called, common sense. No one sees a tre triggers a "fail-safe" mode (terms taken from the shop manual). No one comprehends the bloody screams for a different PC map download. I love that "good (Luck) hunting," pounding on the widow for a phone number (map)... It's a comedy; Watching a rich running PC disrupt a perfect running bike, knowing the PC is building carbon on the piston domes.
Oh yeah, I scoped the cylinders/walls thru the spark plug holes, found carbon builds quickly on the piston, using a TFI or PC... We are talking (carbon buildup) within hundreds of miles. So, as your overly rich daily drivers build up excessive carbon, I'll be here explaining the waste of money you're spending to reinvent the Busa's Fuel Injection system.
You now what we used to say at the shop?... "Ain't my bike!"
sproket
Registered
2busa.....thanks for you input...
It's just that with a TRE the throttle is Noticably quicker and the crusing at lower speeds is smoother, while with the PC i keep the air fuel mixture lower at the lower RPM..
Now i have tried riding without the PC and TRE and the bike was a little rough at low speed crusing and had a second delay at the hit of the throttle...I plug in the PC and then it seems smoother and then plug in the TRE and it seems to run and take off even smoother....I have put about 15,000 miles on my bike with the PC and TRE, every once in a while i will runplug the PC or the TRE and then IT gets right back on the bike...
It could probably be psycological, but if it is going to harm the busa in the long run, it would probably be best to go all stock....except for the boltons and the Airfilter..
It's just that with a TRE the throttle is Noticably quicker and the crusing at lower speeds is smoother, while with the PC i keep the air fuel mixture lower at the lower RPM..
Now i have tried riding without the PC and TRE and the bike was a little rough at low speed crusing and had a second delay at the hit of the throttle...I plug in the PC and then it seems smoother and then plug in the TRE and it seems to run and take off even smoother....I have put about 15,000 miles on my bike with the PC and TRE, every once in a while i will runplug the PC or the TRE and then IT gets right back on the bike...
It could probably be psycological, but if it is going to harm the busa in the long run, it would probably be best to go all stock....except for the boltons and the Airfilter..
My Busa seems to run just fine with the following mods:
BMC Race Filter
Small Air Box Mod
Delete PAIR Valve
Tsukigi FULL Exhaust
BoostbySmiths Modded GPS
87 Octane Pump Gas
New Stock ranger plugs
Cold starts are no different than warm, crank fire (warm up) and go. Throttle response is not as crisp as I'd like, but I do need to synch the TB's first, since it does have 16k+miles on her now. I imagine a valve adjustment would be in short order also, but I haven't taught myself how to do one yet...more reading in order for me. I think there is an advantage to tuning a Busa, be it PC TFI etc...even a totally stock one, but only if its done right.
Charlie
BMC Race Filter
Small Air Box Mod
Delete PAIR Valve
Tsukigi FULL Exhaust
BoostbySmiths Modded GPS
87 Octane Pump Gas
New Stock ranger plugs
Cold starts are no different than warm, crank fire (warm up) and go. Throttle response is not as crisp as I'd like, but I do need to synch the TB's first, since it does have 16k+miles on her now. I imagine a valve adjustment would be in short order also, but I haven't taught myself how to do one yet...more reading in order for me. I think there is an advantage to tuning a Busa, be it PC TFI etc...even a totally stock one, but only if its done right.
Charlie
SO your running all these performance mods with no PC3 or any other fuel altering device? Reason is, I just won a full muzzy exhaust on ebay and my BMC filter and AIS block off plates will be here monday and all this stuff will be under my christmas tree teasing me because I cant just yet afford the PC3 untill way after christmas to put my new performance stuff on
Sproket,
For street work (not racing), I'd axe the PC, keep the tre (or disconnect the sensor) in play. It's all, "subtle" not psychological. Busa is detuned stock wise = more ride-able for, Joe-Public. You want the fail-safe setting the tre triggers. That's where you perk the tune to a noticeable, "sensitive" throttle response. Some riders complain of the sharp, crisp fuel quantity the fail-safe sets. So guys wash the ideal (tre = c31) response with more PC fuel to deaden the response. Back to a more ride-able bike... Again?
I hear you about the, "delay" part of it. That's something I can't help you with. I'd make the ECM code attempts first, trying to clean it up. I know the tre set c31, so that's a lot of what c31 cleaned up. Get it? Code 31 cleaned the "second delay," but I'm starting to see JC pounding his head, as he keeps typing... "You don't need a tre"... (Times 7 years and counting).
It sounds like me trying to explain to the, Professor, "the tune is in the fail-safe maps." It ain't gonna happen either. I hear ya, JC.
The Professor does not see the tune is inside the ECM. I have the last laugh. Note how the tre triggers the fail-safe maps. Since 1999, the tune was always on page, 4-9. That's the tuning page for me.
I studied page 4-9, Sproket. If there were no aftermarket parts to trigger the fail-safe code like the tre does, which, "other sensor" would you "unplug" next? Page 4-8 is your helper page. Remember, you can't hurt the bike. The bike is designed to run in either mode. I'd pull that sensor in a heartbeat, just to see what happens.
For street work (not racing), I'd axe the PC, keep the tre (or disconnect the sensor) in play. It's all, "subtle" not psychological. Busa is detuned stock wise = more ride-able for, Joe-Public. You want the fail-safe setting the tre triggers. That's where you perk the tune to a noticeable, "sensitive" throttle response. Some riders complain of the sharp, crisp fuel quantity the fail-safe sets. So guys wash the ideal (tre = c31) response with more PC fuel to deaden the response. Back to a more ride-able bike... Again?
I hear you about the, "delay" part of it. That's something I can't help you with. I'd make the ECM code attempts first, trying to clean it up. I know the tre set c31, so that's a lot of what c31 cleaned up. Get it? Code 31 cleaned the "second delay," but I'm starting to see JC pounding his head, as he keeps typing... "You don't need a tre"... (Times 7 years and counting).
It sounds like me trying to explain to the, Professor, "the tune is in the fail-safe maps." It ain't gonna happen either. I hear ya, JC.
The Professor does not see the tune is inside the ECM. I have the last laugh. Note how the tre triggers the fail-safe maps. Since 1999, the tune was always on page, 4-9. That's the tuning page for me.
I studied page 4-9, Sproket. If there were no aftermarket parts to trigger the fail-safe code like the tre does, which, "other sensor" would you "unplug" next? Page 4-8 is your helper page. Remember, you can't hurt the bike. The bike is designed to run in either mode. I'd pull that sensor in a heartbeat, just to see what happens.
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