spring sag
- Thread starter dmallord
- Start date
dmallord
Registered
heya guys...
all the way tensioned my front sag is 1 7/8 inch, i loosened the rear to match, and cant wait to ride.
it feels really even when i jounce now.
heck, i was happy before i checked it! the front soft, and the rear tight! (i can almost go to a nasty thought here! LOL)
thanks for all the help, and i will revisit this thread after i get a chance to revisit ortega.
all the way tensioned my front sag is 1 7/8 inch, i loosened the rear to match, and cant wait to ride.
it feels really even when i jounce now.
heck, i was happy before i checked it! the front soft, and the rear tight! (i can almost go to a nasty thought here! LOL)
thanks for all the help, and i will revisit this thread after i get a chance to revisit ortega.
Sounds like you are good to go then.
What was your unladen sag? Mine was 32mm.
cheers
ken
The GEN2 has different forks and springs.YOU are just too big, and will need to change fork springs.
The OP should not at 180lbs.
I knew that, but didn't know it that you couldn't get the proper sag on a gen1 at 180lbs.
lankeeyankee
Banned
21.9MM Sag for me on the front.
dmallord
Registered
21.9MM Sag for me on the front.
im guessing thats your unladen? are the gen2 springs that much stiffer? or, that much more adjustable?
What we need is some absolute numbers to work with.
Fully extended forks: The total distance (MM) from the dust seal to the lower casting.
Free Sag: The amount of sag created by the weight of the bike without the rider.
Rider Sag (Static Sag): The amount of sag created with the rider on the seat, feet on pegs leaned forward in the riding position.
Be sure to have someone balance the bike from the rear while you take these measurements. Do not use a bike stand. Do not use a zip tie. Make sure the bike is as level as possible with both tires on the concrete. Have a third person do the measuring.
With these numbers taken properly and accurately we can most likely figure out your issues.
First thing to do is move your forks back to stock height. With the front lowered the front will always be loaded heavier.
Fully extended forks: The total distance (MM) from the dust seal to the lower casting.
Free Sag: The amount of sag created by the weight of the bike without the rider.
Rider Sag (Static Sag): The amount of sag created with the rider on the seat, feet on pegs leaned forward in the riding position.
Be sure to have someone balance the bike from the rear while you take these measurements. Do not use a bike stand. Do not use a zip tie. Make sure the bike is as level as possible with both tires on the concrete. Have a third person do the measuring.
With these numbers taken properly and accurately we can most likely figure out your issues.
First thing to do is move your forks back to stock height. With the front lowered the front will always be loaded heavier.
When taking your measurements, try placing the end of your tape on the top of the lower casting and measure upwards to the point where the rubber dust seal joins the metal of the outer tube. This is the method I use and the line between the rubber seal and the outer tube gives me a very accurate measurement.
When you are taking your sag measurements have the measurer pull down on the bars to compress the forks and let them extend very slowly - take a measurement.
Then, have the measurer lift the front allowing the forks to extend and then let the bike settle very slowly - take a second measurement. I need these numbers to calculate the amount of "Stiction" inside the forks as they travel.
Get all your numbers together and post them up. I'm sure we can get you a better ride!
When you are taking your sag measurements have the measurer pull down on the bars to compress the forks and let them extend very slowly - take a measurement.
Then, have the measurer lift the front allowing the forks to extend and then let the bike settle very slowly - take a second measurement. I need these numbers to calculate the amount of "Stiction" inside the forks as they travel.
Get all your numbers together and post them up. I'm sure we can get you a better ride!
Cheers!
"You've got that one exactly bassackwards Kenny."
Opps, beer and posting will do that....
I didn't realize the rear shock spring was progressive.
cheers
ken
Oops, one more thing.
When your take your sag measurements, back your preload off all the way to the stops "Counter clockwise" before measuring.
We know we have about 10mm of preload we can use to correct the numbers so lets start with the sag backed all the way off.
When your take your sag measurements, back your preload off all the way to the stops "Counter clockwise" before measuring.
We know we have about 10mm of preload we can use to correct the numbers so lets start with the sag backed all the way off.
RicanBusa
Registered
UPDATE: after cranking the fork pre-load all the way in, all I could get was 50 mm of rider sag. Needless to say, I'm puzzled.
This is the procedure I followed...let me know if I messed something up.
I started with the factory preset: 8 lines showing and these were the measurements going from the edge of the dust seal to the edge of the bottom casting.
free sag (no load,wheel in the air): 135mm
static sag (bike weight): 90mm
rider sag (full gear 210lbs): 80mm for a total of 55mm
then cranked the pre-load all the way in for the following measurements
free sag: 135mm
static sag: 95mm
rider sag: 85mm for a total of 50mm
The bike does feel different (better) with the 5mm difference but I'm no where near ideal. Right now I'm at 50mm of sag in the front and 45 in the rear. the guy I purchased the bike from probably outweighed me by at least 75 lbs. He had to be at least 280. Any thoughts?
Sounds as if you did a pretty thorough job. Did you do your measurements as described above with two friends to help you? If so, then you could use heavier springs. I'm assuming your bike is a Gen I? If so, I'd probably go to 1.05 springs.
Now that you have your sag set, put a zip tie on the lower tube and ride that puppy as you normally would and see where the zip tie ends up. If it's a half inch or more above the casting you have not bottomed the forks out.
If I remember correctly your forks have around 120MM of travel. Ideally you want to use up one third of the travel in rider sag which would be 40MM or so. For everyday street riding you can live with 50MM as long as the forks aren't bottoming out on the brakes.
Your forks work best when the working area is the middle one third of the travel.
Now that you have your sag set, put a zip tie on the lower tube and ride that puppy as you normally would and see where the zip tie ends up. If it's a half inch or more above the casting you have not bottomed the forks out.
If I remember correctly your forks have around 120MM of travel. Ideally you want to use up one third of the travel in rider sag which would be 40MM or so. For everyday street riding you can live with 50MM as long as the forks aren't bottoming out on the brakes.
Your forks work best when the working area is the middle one third of the travel.
RicanBusa
Registered
I did have help from my two sons. After cranking up the preload all the way the forks are not bottoming out but they were before the adjustment. I'm just shocked as to how softly sprung these bikes are. Thanks for the tips and advice all.
dmallord
Registered
i think this is very true. it wasnt until i started getting a "corner" bug that i started playing with the suspension.
i wont get a chance to ride till this weekend, but after setting front and rear sag...setting front and rear damping... my bike jounces evenly. it didnt before.
i have to say that the help that i have gotten here is awesome.
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