Radiator leaking

Northernstar

Registered
I was going for a ride today, I let the bike warm up at idle in the yard. I put on the riding gear on and found that something is leaking from bike.. So no ride today.
A closer examination showed that the old hard-wearing radiator had given up. I ordered a new and at the same time a protective net for the radiator.
Question: is it worth removing the front weel and fender(mud guard, or what ever you call it..) when changing the radiator or is it possible to do it sensibly with just the side fairings removed so that I don't damage the new radiator?

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As Sixpack said, no need to remove front wheel.

Isn't it amazing how long they (the radiator) last?
Mine is also a '99 and it looks much the same as yours in the cooling fins and also has never had a protective guard all it's 25 years of service,
Last week I gave mine a light pressure wash (from a distance) and the amount of dirty water coming out of the cooling fins was staggering.
The cooling fan cycling on/off has now improved A LOT.
Where are you sourcing your new radiator and protective guard from?
 
As Sixpack said, no need to remove front wheel.

Isn't it amazing how long they (the radiator) last?
Mine is also a '99 and it looks much the same as yours in the cooling fins and also has never had a protective guard all it's 25 years of service,
Last week I gave mine a light pressure wash (from a distance) and the amount of dirty water coming out of the cooling fins was staggering.
The cooling fan cycling on/off has now improved A LOT.
Where are you sourcing your new radiator and protective guard from?
I noticed the condition of the radiator already when I bought the bike and I'm surprised that it lasted this long. The replacement cooler is from the brand motoprofessional. And ordered from a German online store. Link: motoprofessional Vesijäähdytin SUZUKI GSX-R1300 Hayabusa vuosi 1999-2007 - Parhaat hinnat ▷ FC-Moto

Guard is from aliexpress.. Remains to see if it's any good.. But looks pretty deasent in pictures.

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I noticed the condition of the radiator already when I bought the bike and I'm surprised that it lasted this long. The replacement cooler is from the brand motoprofessional. And ordered from a German online store. Link: motoprofessional Vesijäähdytin SUZUKI GSX-R1300 Hayabusa vuosi 1999-2007 - Parhaat hinnat ▷ FC-Moto

Guard is from aliexpress.. Remains to see if it's any good.. But looks pretty deasent in pictures.

View attachment 1683247
That radiator looks awesome with the aluminium tanks either side . . very nice, and the price ain't to bad either!
The rad guard from AliExpress looks good too . . I've bought rad and oil cooler guards from them before, pretty good, fit and finish is good, they are value for the money paid.
 
Still waiting the radiator.. I had time so desidet to take old radiator off.. Only one bolt gave me a hard time, (pretty good i think, maybe wd 40 did the tric.) one that snapped I was able to drill off quite easyly and make new tred. So all ok so far.

Now while i have radiator off the way I desited to make heat wrapping allso, any thougts of that? Shoud make some difference to heat radiation and rust the pipes?? In pics reason why to wrap..

Anyone else had same kind of melting in coolingfan?

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I finally got the radiator yesterday. Installed it right away. Test run without fairings: no leaks, fairings in place and for a 150 kilometer run around the lake.

Damn the Hayabusa is a great bike to ride!!

Water Wetter seems to lower the temperature of the coolant some now when I'm driving pretty hard and rew the engine the needle of the thermometer remains a little short of the halfway point where it was before.

The thermal insulation of the exhaust pipes seems to work too, significantly less heat rises from the engine bay when stopping.

So I recoment bolt of thouse, I probably wouldn't have needed a water wetter myself, it's mostly cool in Finland but I wanted to try it and a small drop in operating temperature doesn't hurt.
 
I finally got the radiator yesterday. Installed it right away. Test run without fairings: no leaks, fairings in place and for a 150 kilometer run around the lake.

Damn the Hayabusa is a great bike to ride!!

Water Wetter seems to lower the temperature of the coolant some now when I'm driving pretty hard and rew the engine the needle of the thermometer remains a little short of the halfway point where it was before.

The thermal insulation of the exhaust pipes seems to work too, significantly less heat rises from the engine bay when stopping.

So I recoment bolt of thouse, I probably wouldn't have needed a water wetter myself, it's mostly cool in Finland but I wanted to try it and a small drop in operating temperature doesn't hurt.
Pleased to hear your bike is back in business.

Hope you don't mind, but I wish to comment on your perception of what the water wetter does for you:

1.) Your thermostat controls the temperature of your coolant from going too low and your fan controls it from going too high. It has nothing to do with what is inside your coolant.

2.) Water wetters are soap based, (surfactants) they reduce the surface tension of the liquid, allowing better heat transfer between the radiator and the liquid, but they are all soap based, used in mainly cleaning materials. They all foam, which is the worst thing you want in a coolant, as the foam will have the exact opposite effect in heat transfer and make it much less efficient. So the name "Water Wetter" is purely a marketing ploy to catch the consumer.

3.) Most if not all engine coolants contain ethylene glycol, which reduces the freezing temperatures of your coolant and increases the boiling point, which is exactly what you need. However they actually decrease the coefficient of heat transfer up to between 5-10%. Due to the lower specific heat of the glycol coolant while riding, what that actually does is it increases the thermal efficiency of your engine. They also act as a lubricant to your water pump and an anti corrosive agent.

4.) An engine which runs too cold can do a lot of damage and an engine which runs too hot, will do even more damage. So you have a thermostat in a cooling system which is designed to operate between an upper and lower temperature. The capacity of the Hayabusa cooling system from Gen2 onwards is more than ample to handle that, so whatever you put into your coolant regarding heat transfer makes absolutely no difference.

5.) The best coolant is one which prevents freezing, boiling, corrosion and does not degrade over time. They pretty much all do that. I use a standard ethylene glycol coolant from an automotive store, don't even bother about the brand name. I change it once in 5 years, my cooling system is absolutely clean and when riding the cooling fan never comes on. In 90F plus heat conditions if the bike idles, the fan will kick in for a short period and switch off again. So any extra $$ I put in my coolant will be a waste of time.

Hope my post does not irritate you, I just hate it when clever marketers take advantage of the public.

As a final point to think about, provided your coolant does not go above boiling point, the higher the temperature, the better the thermal efficiency of the motor will be.
 
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I’ve used water wetter in my pro street Camaro for 20 years, brings my temperature down 7 degrees and caused no issues.
This is a copy and paste from one of my buddies who is on the track just about every weekend, for what it is worth.

"Anyhow, one of the products supplied to me was the Water Wetter. I have been bracket racing the identical engine/transmission combination for 13 years now, and I know how the car acts inside and out. I start my water burnout at 145 degrees F, come out of the water hard right to the starting line, and stage at 185 degrees F. Usually by the end of the run, I am at about 195 degrees F, and by the time I get up the return road, and to my trailer the temperature is about 205 to 208 degrees F. This is using straight water, if I mix 15% ethylene glycol, which I do at the beginning of the season when there is still a possibility of temperatures at night going below freezing, these numbers increase by about 5 degrees F, unless the air temperature is very cold that day. With the water wetter mixed with my straight water, there were no differences in these standard, long proven numbers. I'm glad the auto parts store supplied my with that bottle, and I didn't have to pay 10 bucks for it."
 
Many tracks require something other than glycol coolant due to its slipperyness when spilled. Hard to clean off too. I’ve never experienced overheating so the only time I’d use Ice or Wetter is on the track. If regular coolant mixed with water actually ‘lubricates’ the water pump then that’s a plus.
 
Pleased to hear your bike is back in business.

Hope you don't mind, but I wish to comment on your perception of what the water wetter does for you:

1.) Your thermostat controls the temperature of your coolant from going too low and your fan controls it from going too high. It has nothing to do with what is inside your coolant.

2.) Water wetters are soap based, (surfactants) they reduce the surface tension of the liquid, allowing better heat transfer between the radiator and the liquid, but they are all soap based, used in mainly cleaning materials. They all foam, which is the worst thing you want in a coolant, as the foam will have the exact opposite effect in heat transfer and make it much less efficient. So the name "Water Wetter" is purely a marketing ploy to catch the consumer.

3.) Most if not all engine coolants contain ethylene glycol, which reduces the freezing temperatures of your coolant and increases the boiling point, which is exactly what you need. However they actually decrease the coefficient of heat transfer up to between 5-10%. Due to the lower specific heat of the glycol coolant while riding, what that actually does is it increases the thermal efficiency of your engine. They also act as a lubricant to your water pump and an anti corrosive agent.

4.) An engine which runs too cold can do a lot of damage and an engine which runs too hot, will do even more damage. So you have a thermostat in a cooling system which is designed to operate between an upper and lower temperature. The capacity of the Hayabusa cooling system from Gen2 onwards is more than ample to handle that, so whatever you put into your coolant regarding heat transfer makes absolutely no difference.

5.) The best coolant is one which prevents freezing, boiling, corrosion and does not degrade over time. They pretty much all do that. I use a standard ethylene glycol coolant from an automotive store, don't even bother about the brand name. I change it once in 5 years, my cooling system is absolutely clean and when riding the cooling fan never comes on. In 90F plus heat conditions if the bike idles, the fan will kick in for a short period and switch off again. So any extra $$ I put in my coolant will be a waste of time.

Hope my post does not irritate you, I just hate it when clever marketers take advantage of the public.

As a final point to think about, provided your coolant does not go above boiling point, the higher the temperature, the better the thermal efficiency of the motor will be.
I don't mind and I'm very suspicious of all kinds of miracle products..
I do know about the thermostat that determines the engine's operating temperature, but the thermostat can't fix the problem of an underpowered cooling system.
However, I do not claim that in the conditions in which I drive, I need more cooling power.

Before buying water Wetter, I found out what this "snake oil" is based on, i.e. lowering surface tension, and the theory seems plausible, that's why I wanted to try it.
There is no better product description on the side of the redline jar, so I don't know about the soap base yet. I need to find out.

In any case, I went on a little longer drive today and drove in the city center for a while, the thermometer stays around the halfway point and the fan sometimes starts up, when driving on the highway the gauge stays a little below the halfway point.
 
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