Nitrous after headwork

[RedFalco]

Howdy.
A few questions, if I may.
Its been about a week and ahalf and 500 miles later after my head gasket / engine rebuild. My nitrous system was in hibernation for about a year and 3 months. (never been used, tested, etc.)
When I sent off my head to APE, I had heavier springs installed, a resurface to the head, a port blend with valve job performed. I installed heavy duty studs and nuts when I pieced it all back together for the extra reassurance.
I'm running BoostBySmiths ECU flashing and all his electronic goodies for nitrous applications. i.e..switches, lockouts, etc. I've had the secondary (nitrous) map already tunned in and set before I blew the head gasket making about 205.9 hp.
Today I decided to TEST the system for functionality before I take it to get it reflashed and tuned again as I'm thinking my air to fuel ratio has changed with the port blend and performance valve job done to the head. <<Yes or No?
Anywho... I disconnected the line to my Gixxer plate and had wrapped the line to the outside of the bike when I took it out to test the system. My purge side of the system worked like a champ.. on/off/on/off..<all good. When I took it out for a ride to test all the "rules for engagement" of the nitrous system, I lost the rest of what was left in the bottle. It would appear that my nitrous side, possibly the solenoid? is stuck open?
My right pants leg was frosted over when I got off the bike as I was expecting just a couple bursts from the disconnected line. I know first hand how cold this stuff really is...

My triggers to the system is out of first gear, above and between 6k thru 10500 rpms, greater than 85% throttle and the starter button must be pressed. All of which are working as should.
If the solenoid is stuck open, how difficult is it to rebuild? < or is it even worth doing and just to buy anew?
Do I have the right idea as to getting the ECU reflashed after the head work or should the initial "stock" nitrous map be sufficient?
Is there a break in period on the "new" head that I need to follow before running the juice?
Really would'nt mind getting it retuned as I'm curious to see the new numbers with the head work done.. i.e... how many more ponnies did I gain, if any.
Thanks for any and all insight you have to offer.
Preciate Ya!

 

[dadofthree]

I would bench test the solenoid. You could have trash in the seat causing a leak. Put some clean dry air through it and operate it a few times if it leaks and it might clear itself up. Or you could have issues with your set up placing power on the solenoid when you don't want it.

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

First question: Are you running a filter before the solenoid? IF not, you need to be. I would suspect that there is a piece of something in the solenoid, rather than a hardware issue

 

[RedFalco]

First question: Are you running a filter before the solenoid? IF not, you need to be. I would suspect that there is a piece of something in the solenoid, rather than a hardware issue

No Sir... sure ain't.
Must have missed that feature in the "install brochure". I've been very careful to cap the open end of the line when the bottle is removed.

 

[RedFalco]

I would bench test the solenoid. You could have trash in the seat causing a leak. Put some clean dry air through it and operate it a few times if it leaks and it might clear itself up. Or you could have issues with your set up placing power on the solenoid when you don't want it.

I'm considering on trying to push air (as mentioned) through the line where my bottle connects up to with an air compressor to determine if it is stuck open. When I pulled to the side of the road and shut the bike down and switched the power off to the nitrous circuit, I could still feel it wheezing air / nitrous out of the disconnected line. Probably not adviseable to put a compressor to it?

Another note: When I opened the bottle valve (with the nitrous circuit on) bike off)), I checked the disconnected line for leaks or hissing. It had none.

 

[RedFalco]

Update:
Did not want to use compressed air on the solenoid as not to "rupture" internal components therein. Took the solenoid out of the "circuit" and blew through one end of the solenoid without it connected and it was like shooting a spitwad through a straw. I did not think to put a towel or something on the other end to catch whatever was in there so I cant identify what was in there. Debree of some sort.

Electrically the solenoid functions under voltage. Opens and closes as it should.

I'm looking into filter options now. What are the best options? Space is limited to put one in junction to my piping. Will a bottle filter suffice?

Ty