My dyno run

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OB_VegasDude

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Went to my suzuki dealer ship last Saturday. Dynojet was there with their mobile dyno. They talked me into putting my bike on the dyno. There was also a stock hayabusa there as well. They put the stock hayabusa on the dyno and it turned out 152 horses. They then put mine on and on the first pass got 154. They said I was running too rich, so they used my power commander and leaned out the top end and I gained 5 more horses for a total of 159 horse power. I was a little disappointed. I told them that my friend Scott Robinson dynoed 166 on his bike at Dyno jet. They knew Scott and said that was true but they had his bike for a week and they broke the bike in on the dyno and gained 6 horsepower on break in. DynoMark was also present. They said of all the busa's they have tested none of them were broke in and you could not put enough load on the hayabusa on the street to break it in properly. They praised the engine. Since i didnt want to keep my bike on the dyno for the entire day, believe me the way the bike sounds when they are at redline in 4th gear I thought it was going to blow up. Plus I had to sign all types of releases before they would do it. Out of all the bikes they dynoed mine had the most horsepower. At least I know what horsepower mine has now and I have 5 more horses than I did when I came in there. While I was a little disappointed, I wanted to share with the group an honest dyno run with a micron pipe and power commander. Expect to get 7 horsepower or so plus shed some weight at the same time..............

[This message has been edited by VegasDude (edited 17 November 1999).]
 
Congrat on your dyno run.I dynoed my bike during the middle of the summer and got 157 horsepower and 97lbs of torque toatlly stock,it was 101 degrees in the dyno room.I will be making another dyno run soon and I'll be checking the degrees in the cams.I heard that the cams could be off by a back margine from the factory.
 
Dyno run hopefully soon this Winter.

Yosh Duplex Race Ti-Can

BMC Filter

Air Pump out & Block off Plates in

Should be Good numbers,?? 2475 miles on the clock,,I think that's broken in Enough.

161 ®
 
Done the airbox VegasDude? My dyno numbers are very similar to yours...from 154 stock, RS-3 (cans only) to 161 immediately after the airbox surgery. No remapping whatsoever. Factory stock maps.

I have noticed a trend that Yosh box and PCII Busas do not respond well to the airbox mod. Anyone agree with that?
 
There is an air pressure sensor in the system. The air box mod from what I have read does not help the bottom or mid, but works well on top.

Some people have replaced airboxes after doing the mod.

I would like to hear Jeffw's opinion on this mod.
 
The curve on my dyno run is perfectly smooth and stays above the baseline reference stock Busa's curve by the same distance every inch of the way...bottom, middle and top.

Might just be lucky...the Busa engine seems so variable from the factory.
 
My dynotuner did the airbox mod on my bike, I didn't even ask him too, he just did. It already had a pipe on it when I had it dynotuned, without PC2 and airbox mod just pipe. It came in at 159 ponies, after PC2 and airbox mod 167.7 and 101.8lbs. I think the airbox mod helped in my case, of course he had my bike for over a week too, over 115 dyno runs to get those numbers. Dynojet didn't have any maps for the Akropovic at the time so he winged it. Your numbers will increase if you give it to somebody to dyno for a week. It's not cheap but it is definitely worth it.
 
The stock Busa drinks a fair amount of air. Making the mod on the airbox won't help a bunch w/o some sort of engine work (head, f/i, etc).

If you run the PC2 or tune with the YAFMS, you do stand a chance to improve performance with the ABM, but it does take time. I've spent many nights with Shane (my sponsored rider) tuning my busa (I tune, he rides) to get my bike back to a good feeling after the ABM (remove the 2k rpm stumble).

Breaking an engine in on the street will not produce the same hp as a bike that has been broken in on the dyno. Just not enough load for the big busa engine on the street.
 
vegasdude, or whoever else can answer this question, how does one go about breaking in a bike on a dyno? should this be done with a full system (i plan on having one on my 2000) on it? if broken in on a dyno will you end up with more power then breaking it in by just riding around on the streets? like how is it better for gaining more power?

maniac
 
I had my bike dynoed on a dynojet dyno around Aug and it dynoed at 158. At the time my mods were Yosh RS3 pipe, airbox mod and BMC Filter. (No remapped at the time). Last Friday myself, Byhalia and another friend with a Busa took our bikes for another round of dyno runs. This time around I added the PCII. Byhalia didn't dyno his bike but the other Busa rider did. His bike is bone stock and he dynoed 161. My bike including the airbox mods and PCII dynoed at 163. In the beginning I was pissed because a stock busa dynoed similar to what I had. But after the dyno technician took his dyno run and my dyno run and overlaid them together on the same screen, we found out that my bike made almost 12 horsepower more than the stock busa did in the midrange area. The map I used was not what dynojet had installed but instead it was one sent to me from Don (Rotts 4U). (If you remember from his posts, he did some dyno tunning during Biketoberfest). I called Don to see if his bike showed the same grunt in the mid area as my bike did and he confirmed his bike also showed the same. I was disappointed because Lee Shierts said he did the airbox mod and instantly gained 10 horsepower. All in all I'm satisfied with 163 horsepower althought I was looking for something closer to 170. Ride safe!!

[This message has been edited by Ghost Ryder01 (edited 17 November 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Ghost Ryder01 (edited 17 November 1999).]
 
Being a stickler about factory specified break-in on the Busa I have found the break in difficulty opinions interesting. This isn't the first tiime we've heard this. It would seem reasonable that a Busa would be difficult to break in on the street during the factory specified period considering the lower revs, lack of high load. Is this to say that it just takes a lot longer on the street or that it NEVER gets broken in? Surely a Busa on the street eventually sees enough wear to be considered broken in? If so - any guesses or approximation on how long/how many miles this might take? Should a mindful owner voluntarily extend the break in period past the factory recommendation?

[This message has been edited by Todd (edited 17 November 1999).]
 
My take on that issue:

Better oils, engineering, materials and manufacturing tolerances have made break-in less critical than it was even 5 years ago.

Non-factory racers break them in on the dyno because they have to, not to get more power. You can't ride a race bike easy for the first 600 miles.

Bikes broken in this way tend to make more power than street bikes because the violence of their break-in mates the rings into the walls more positively resulting in better compression. And because a rough break-in quickly increases clearances everywhere so you get a looser mill with less internal friction.

A by-the-book street break-in has the advantage of seating everything more accurately and smoothly, and that results in better longevity. Over-babying a break-in seems to result in a less responsive, shorter lasting engine, possibly because the engine stays tight for life.

So it's a trade-off, as usual in the mechanical world.

I like to split the difference and give a bike or any other hi-performance engine for that matter a fairly stressful street break-in. I'm not sure this has made any difference on my Busa but I'm more than satisfied with the dyno results.

Others will have different opinions or better facts, no doubt.
 
Maybe the factory rec break-in followed shortly after by banzai runs is the way to go?
 
no, i havent done the air mod yet. You have to know someone to have them put it on the dyno for the week. But after seeing or rather hearing a dyno run, I couldnt imagine doing a whole bunch of these. Maybe im just a rookie when it comes to dyno runs. The dynojet people were very helpful and knew what they were doing. But, thats my baby up there...........lol
 
I did my dyno on a 150 unit at my friends shop and my bike is all stock and the only thing that I did was clean and oil the chain and replaced the motor oil that morning with golden Spectro blend.I got 159rwhp on pass number three and on pass number two I got 160rwhp and my friend yelled out 200mph.Like you said VegasDude the bike sounded like it was going to blow up.I'm leaving this bike stock but if I get another Hayabusa I'm going to give it the full treatment to the engine and lower the bike for straight shots and I believe in a stronge aftermarket clutch system.Ride safe.
 
looks like im about in the average. i have an airbox-mod , pc2 and micron ti pipe and came in at 159.9 hp . see what the winter mods do!
 
Ghostryder--You hit it on the head. How you get to the peak HP is just as important. The PC2/ABM/Micron combo produced 166 HP for me.
No stunble anywhere! More HP and Torque than the YOSH IN LOW & Midrange.

I posted before about dynojets numbers and the difficulty in break-in with fewer than 3000 miles.

Vegas--On the Dyno if you lean the top end you will make more HP, but when your on the road or connect the blowers to the ramair intakes on the Dyno you will make less. The air box sensor did not make up for this when I was on the DYNO with the blowers on. So we richened it up.

Bob
 
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