Laser Interceptor Installed On Busa 56k warning!
- Thread starter Darkflame
- Start date
bpjones
Registered
Ok....here's what I found......$700
Laser Interceptor USA - Distributor to The USA, and Canada
Is this the unit and the price you got?
BP
Laser Interceptor USA - Distributor to The USA, and Canada
Is this the unit and the price you got?
BP
That's the one.
The truespeed enabled gun just allows you to know you are getting shot by a truespeed gun as it will say true speed.
The non truespeed LI will still jam it, it will just say unknown gun when doing so. So the only difference is notification, not jamming ability.
Here's the link to the radar bands by town.
Radar bands by town
The truespeed enabled gun just allows you to know you are getting shot by a truespeed gun as it will say true speed.
The non truespeed LI will still jam it, it will just say unknown gun when doing so. So the only difference is notification, not jamming ability.
Here's the link to the radar bands by town.
Radar bands by town
Well change of plans... Bought the Laser Interceptor for the K8 Busa today! Thanks for pointing me this direction, can't wait to jam some guns. 
Welcome to the club 
Remember to take care in not grounding your output speaker wires...I did that and it was a PIA fixing the problem..
Stick to the LED or PEIZO speaker method for alerts, if you MUST hear the name of the gun LOL then just solder the external wires into a female 3.5MM jack, then you can plug your headphones in. (if you plan to connect to your autocom or chatterbox note that it's not possible without voiding your warranty...So I just go with 1W LED to notify me when the jammer is activated then you can look at the switch that comes with the unit. If it's pulsing it means the LEO is still trying to get a reading (but getting nothing) if it goes back to solid it means the leo gave up LOL.
You can also buy a 5W external speaker (think along the lines of charlies angel's speaker box), mount this right behind your cluster. You can hear it at high speeds on max volume.
The "Welcome......" when you turn on your bike though might make you look a little too geeked out on your busa.
Oh and when I mean voiding warranty, I don't just mean they don't support the autocom, I mean you have to make physical changes to the circuitboard to prevent it from blowing the pre-amp that drives the speaker external speaker signal wires.
Remember to take care in not grounding your output speaker wires...I did that and it was a PIA fixing the problem..
Stick to the LED or PEIZO speaker method for alerts, if you MUST hear the name of the gun LOL then just solder the external wires into a female 3.5MM jack, then you can plug your headphones in. (if you plan to connect to your autocom or chatterbox note that it's not possible without voiding your warranty...So I just go with 1W LED to notify me when the jammer is activated then you can look at the switch that comes with the unit. If it's pulsing it means the LEO is still trying to get a reading (but getting nothing) if it goes back to solid it means the leo gave up LOL.
You can also buy a 5W external speaker (think along the lines of charlies angel's speaker box), mount this right behind your cluster. You can hear it at high speeds on max volume.
The "Welcome......" when you turn on your bike though might make you look a little too geeked out on your busa.
Oh and when I mean voiding warranty, I don't just mean they don't support the autocom, I mean you have to make physical changes to the circuitboard to prevent it from blowing the pre-amp that drives the speaker external speaker signal wires.
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I use a wire going from the front low beam along the side of the frame to the trunk. This brings positive to the LI. Negative is just tapped from the battery.
On my bike, there's a little connector on the left side of the trunk (you need to remove the rear fender assembly)
There's a 5v and 12V lines in there too but I don't know what that's for so I didn't want to mess with tapping voltage there.
It's got like 8 wires going into a junction box. I had to pry the cover off to see inside....but a volt meter had reported 3.3, 4.6, 5.0 and 12.4 volts.
Not sure what this is for though.
You can checkout that wire kit in the hayabusa for sale section..It taps into your running light wire and puts 1 accessory up front and 2 in the rear..
In my setup this is how I got everything going.
Ditch the LI brackets, they are atrocious. You'll be readjusting your heads every 20 minutes if you ride hard.
Grab some 1"x1" brackets from lowes / home depot. This will be a sure set it and forget it method. (if you want the brackets more flush for a stealth look pick up a 1"x1.5" bracket and saw off the 1.5" side just above the first hole. This will pull jammer head up closer to the fairing)
I used the two pushpin holes that were in the front of the busa nose (that secures the bottom flap) for my front brackets (no drilling required)
I did it like this..
[]........[] top of bolt
~~~~~~Fairing
=........= (nut to secure the bolt if you decide to remove laser head*)
||........||
~~~~~~Laser head
=........= (nut to secure laser head to the bolt.)
*The reason I put an extra nut is because if you remove the laser head and accidently push the bolt back up into the fairing, you need to remove the entire nose of the bike again to reset the bolt back into the nose.
I also dremmeled a really really tiny ammount of the little U lip on the flat piece on the bottom of the nose. This removes the stress on the cable for the laser head. Like 1/16" or so...It's a reall small adjustment.
The wires are coiled in the front. I had it coiled in the rear but when I had to go back in the nose again, I had to uncoil the wire from the rear and pull the slack to the front just to get the nose away from the bike. It was a PIA so I just have it coiled in the front now.
The draw backs is that the nose is still tethered to the main frame if you remove the nose, But you got like 40 feet of wire to work with so the nose can still be placed out of the way.
The rear required two holes to be drilled into the undertail to mount the brackets...The cables are coiled up on the side of the rear fender assembly, out of sight, out of mind.
the control box is mounted in under the seat, there are 6 wires that run to the front.
Power+, radio mute, front laser head wire and the switch with the 3 wires. These run along the left side of the fairing, under the tank to the front of the bike.
Power+ taps into low beam
Radio mute goes to a DPDT switch. Throw #1 enables 1W LED that is inversed to the LED on the switch (you'll see why when you get it), Throw #2 enables the 1W LED + PEIZO speaker. Both tap their 12V from the low beam wire as well).
Switch mounts to the left plastic assembly (water has not been an issue as of yet) but you may still want to consider a waterproof switch assembly.
The LI was designed for a car in mind. The switch has a LED status.
When powered on, the LED glows steady green. When the jammers of firing the LED will flash.
What happens is when you're getting jammed, the unit starts talking.
Let's see the LEO tags you for 3 seconds, gives up and moves on. You're still in the middle of the "speech" "Warning, marksman or ultralyte 20/20, jamming sequence is activated please slow down" but the leo's moved on already LOL....but the switch will flash only when the LEO is trying to get a reading.
The reason inversed the LED is because the 1W would be blinding me all day long while I ride, but flash only when i'm being targeted.
Now as it stands, the 1W is off, it flashes when i'm being targeted.
Flashing is a GOOD thing. it means the LEO hasn't gotten a reading
So basically i'm going 120, then a bright light starts flashing....I pull back to 55 quickly (it's still flashing) then I turn off the unit. The leo get's his reading of 55, I pass him, grin, then rip it again.
Make sure you mount your heads far up front slightly pass the tip if you don't mind the way it looks. this protects you from overpass shots too. You don't want the tip of your nose blinding the upper part of the receiver if possible.
If you ride in a group, have all your friends right in the left side of the lane, you ride in the back on the right side of the lane. you can protect them from lasers because your unit will pick up the beam (it widens over distance) and jam the gun. If you ride up front this won't unless you scout like me...we all ride, i'm about 500 feet head, everyone goes 110 behind me.
You can take it a step further if you like, using the ground wire you can add a transistor to the circuit that will kill the brake sensors so when you're jamming, you brake lights won't activate when you slow down.
Good stuff!
On my bike, there's a little connector on the left side of the trunk (you need to remove the rear fender assembly)
There's a 5v and 12V lines in there too but I don't know what that's for so I didn't want to mess with tapping voltage there.
It's got like 8 wires going into a junction box. I had to pry the cover off to see inside....but a volt meter had reported 3.3, 4.6, 5.0 and 12.4 volts.
Not sure what this is for though.
You can checkout that wire kit in the hayabusa for sale section..It taps into your running light wire and puts 1 accessory up front and 2 in the rear..
In my setup this is how I got everything going.
Ditch the LI brackets, they are atrocious. You'll be readjusting your heads every 20 minutes if you ride hard.
Grab some 1"x1" brackets from lowes / home depot. This will be a sure set it and forget it method. (if you want the brackets more flush for a stealth look pick up a 1"x1.5" bracket and saw off the 1.5" side just above the first hole. This will pull jammer head up closer to the fairing)
I used the two pushpin holes that were in the front of the busa nose (that secures the bottom flap) for my front brackets (no drilling required)
I did it like this..
[]........[] top of bolt
~~~~~~Fairing
=........= (nut to secure the bolt if you decide to remove laser head*)
||........||
~~~~~~Laser head
=........= (nut to secure laser head to the bolt.)
*The reason I put an extra nut is because if you remove the laser head and accidently push the bolt back up into the fairing, you need to remove the entire nose of the bike again to reset the bolt back into the nose.
I also dremmeled a really really tiny ammount of the little U lip on the flat piece on the bottom of the nose. This removes the stress on the cable for the laser head. Like 1/16" or so...It's a reall small adjustment.
The wires are coiled in the front. I had it coiled in the rear but when I had to go back in the nose again, I had to uncoil the wire from the rear and pull the slack to the front just to get the nose away from the bike. It was a PIA so I just have it coiled in the front now.
The draw backs is that the nose is still tethered to the main frame if you remove the nose, But you got like 40 feet of wire to work with so the nose can still be placed out of the way.
The rear required two holes to be drilled into the undertail to mount the brackets...The cables are coiled up on the side of the rear fender assembly, out of sight, out of mind.
the control box is mounted in under the seat, there are 6 wires that run to the front.
Power+, radio mute, front laser head wire and the switch with the 3 wires. These run along the left side of the fairing, under the tank to the front of the bike.
Power+ taps into low beam
Radio mute goes to a DPDT switch. Throw #1 enables 1W LED that is inversed to the LED on the switch (you'll see why when you get it), Throw #2 enables the 1W LED + PEIZO speaker. Both tap their 12V from the low beam wire as well).
Switch mounts to the left plastic assembly (water has not been an issue as of yet) but you may still want to consider a waterproof switch assembly.
The LI was designed for a car in mind. The switch has a LED status.
When powered on, the LED glows steady green. When the jammers of firing the LED will flash.
What happens is when you're getting jammed, the unit starts talking.
Let's see the LEO tags you for 3 seconds, gives up and moves on. You're still in the middle of the "speech" "Warning, marksman or ultralyte 20/20, jamming sequence is activated please slow down" but the leo's moved on already LOL....but the switch will flash only when the LEO is trying to get a reading.
The reason inversed the LED is because the 1W would be blinding me all day long while I ride, but flash only when i'm being targeted.
Now as it stands, the 1W is off, it flashes when i'm being targeted.
Flashing is a GOOD thing. it means the LEO hasn't gotten a reading
So basically i'm going 120, then a bright light starts flashing....I pull back to 55 quickly (it's still flashing) then I turn off the unit. The leo get's his reading of 55, I pass him, grin, then rip it again.
Make sure you mount your heads far up front slightly pass the tip if you don't mind the way it looks. this protects you from overpass shots too. You don't want the tip of your nose blinding the upper part of the receiver if possible.
If you ride in a group, have all your friends right in the left side of the lane, you ride in the back on the right side of the lane. you can protect them from lasers because your unit will pick up the beam (it widens over distance) and jam the gun. If you ride up front this won't unless you scout like me...we all ride, i'm about 500 feet head, everyone goes 110 behind me.
You can take it a step further if you like, using the ground wire you can add a transistor to the circuit that will kill the brake sensors so when you're jamming, you brake lights won't activate when you slow down.
Good stuff!
I believe so. It's just a plug and play harness that taps into your 12V running wire tucked away in the nose, then provides 1 port up front (or 2 if you want) and 2 in the rear...It's just a method of bringing the power in the front to the rear of the bike.
It's really a simple kit but the guy put a lot of effort into giving it a clean look so it's nicer to have that running to the back then wires all over the place tie strapped all over your busa.
Once you get into modding the LI's speaker mute function you open up a world of possibilities....Hell if you were insane you could change the voice on the LI and wire the speaker mute to your nos switch..
"Warning, marksman or ultralyte 20/20, nos tank is firing! hold on tight!"
Once the leo tries to tag you you'll be doing 220 in no time. LOL
Or you can insult an leo by having a dancing banana embeded on a LCD screen on the headlight of your bike....
When the leo tags you he'll see this....
Or hace your switchbacks turn yellow so he'll think your turn signals are jamming his gun LOL most cops don't have a clue as to how you're jamming them...They just think you have one of those "jammer thingy's"
It's really a simple kit but the guy put a lot of effort into giving it a clean look so it's nicer to have that running to the back then wires all over the place tie strapped all over your busa.
Once you get into modding the LI's speaker mute function you open up a world of possibilities....Hell if you were insane you could change the voice on the LI and wire the speaker mute to your nos switch..
"Warning, marksman or ultralyte 20/20, nos tank is firing! hold on tight!"
Once the leo tries to tag you you'll be doing 220 in no time. LOL
Or you can insult an leo by having a dancing banana embeded on a LCD screen on the headlight of your bike....
When the leo tags you he'll see this....
Or hace your switchbacks turn yellow so he'll think your turn signals are jamming his gun LOL most cops don't have a clue as to how you're jamming them...They just think you have one of those "jammer thingy's"
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Same place I installed my first bikes jammer almost four years ago... Underneath the nose using those same fasteners! Works like a champ. Now, I'm working on something custom for this install on my 2008. Already wired just need to work some more of the details out.
Going to shorten the wire harness assy and eliminate the extra wire.. Also looking to waterproof the system! Any luck on an after market, waterproof speaker for this?
Not sure about waterproof speakers, perhaps you can find any outdoor style speaker would suffice. You don't need one that has 5hz-30khz range or anything "audiophile" like. It's just a simple notification of the gun type.
I just stick to my peizo/inverted led. Hearing the name of the gun is fun but pointless when the entire state uses the same gun.
I just stick to my peizo/inverted led. Hearing the name of the gun is fun but pointless when the entire state uses the same gun.
My only question is why hasn't anyone tried to get a Group Buy going??
I use a tank bag with a small amplifier powered up, which can take up to 4 sound sources to one output IE headphones
for my existing Radar detector >>
one mono signal is propietory so it shuts everything down IE music and all you hear is the radar
link: http://www.mixitproducts.com/
I want to look into this setup and have written to them regarding a group buy over the winter
I use a tank bag with a small amplifier powered up, which can take up to 4 sound sources to one output IE headphones
for my existing Radar detector >>
one mono signal is propietory so it shuts everything down IE music and all you hear is the radar
link: http://www.mixitproducts.com/
I want to look into this setup and have written to them regarding a group buy over the winter
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Jammer group buys have taken place here on the oRg but... Not a lot of folks want to plunk down that kind of money especially in this economy! So, it makes for a difficult sell...
bpjones
Registered
Well, "IF you speed," it's the best insurance out there!
A good radar detector is at least half the price of a LI.....and does nothing for ya if they wait to paint you, as in they don't turn it on untill they see you.
I've been hit twice like that and that's why I'm investing in an LI because I know I'm not going to slow down!~
BP
A good radar detector is at least half the price of a LI.....and does nothing for ya if they wait to paint you, as in they don't turn it on untill they see you.
I've been hit twice like that and that's why I'm investing in an LI because I know I'm not going to slow down!~
BP
