HW's Inaugural Maintenance

Hayabusa Wannabe

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I am doubting that I may get in any more rides as I see the average high temperature is predicted to be in the high 30's and low 40's. The riding season may have given up the ghost. Soon I will be tearing the bike apart.

What is required of the gas tank during extended maintenance? It currently is nearly empty. I understand that to raise it I am not going to want the weight of fuel. Do I need to take measures to keep the tank spotless? Should I pull it off and fill it just for this reason? Can I leave it as is, with less than a gallon in it? I do not think removal will be required. Among my projects, I expect the shock to come out from underneath, and that raising the tank should leave room for brake line replacement.
 
The tank is easy.
The 2 visible bolts in the front, lift it and prop it up, then you can see the vent lines and fuel line, as well as the 2 bolts that hold the hinged tank bracket down.
Pull the 2 vent hoses off, release the clip on the fuel hose disconnect and pull it off, then unbolt the hindged bracket and lift the tank off.
As for the amount of gas left in it, really depends upon how long it will sit.
Ethanol free gas will last a long time, at least the several months of winter.
You can remove the tank as is, if full is too heavy for you, then fill it up on the ground, since rust cant happen if no bare metal is exposed.
But, personally, I would leave the gallon in it, unless it has ethanol, then drain the tank and put a gallon of non ethanol in it.
If the tank will be off until you ride it again, I'de just pick up and shake the gas tank once every couple weeks, just to keep gas over the entire inside of the tank.
That is what I plan to do with my Gsxr gas tank, as it is at the powder coaters right now.
When I get it back, I'm going to put the fuel pump in, the cap on, and a gallon of ethanol free gas in it, and shake it up occasionally until I get the rest of the parts to start the bike in a couple months.
 
so long as it's ethanol free gas

We have ethanol in everything. :sad:

It sounds like I cannot leave it empty through this but must protect it. Removing it while working on the bike, and filling it or swishing it periodically sounds necessary. Can do.

the nice thing about the storage spray is as soon as you fill the tank with fuel, it dissolves.

Yea...I do not think that I want to burn that stuff off.
 
We have ethanol in everything. :sad:

It sounds like I cannot leave it empty through this but must protect it. Removing it while working on the bike, and filling it or swishing it periodically sounds necessary. Can do.



Yea...I do not think that I want to burn that stuff off.
I've never had an issue with it....it's designed for engine storage...in the carburetor days I'd spray I'd down the carb bores until the bike stalled.

At one time I had 5 bikes in my garage and there were years when they didn't turn a wheel due to my being away.

The issue with swishing it around periodically is when you forget to do it.....
 
We have ethanol in everything. :sad:

It sounds like I cannot leave it empty through this but must protect it. Removing it while working on the bike, and filling it or swishing it periodically sounds necessary. Can do.



Yea...I do not think that I want to burn that stuff off.

Can you buy any type of unleaded race gas, 90 octane or higher, at a pump or in 5 gallon cans?
That is fine to fill up a gas tank with, and is better anyway, as it's usually cleaner.
That is what I do on new engine starts after fuel system rebuilds or engine rebuilds.
I buy a 5 gallon can of high 90's to low 100's octane, whatever they have.
I know it's clean fuel, with no trash from the station's in ground tanks, so I have no trash suprises and issues when I start the engine, and sync the carbs or throttle bodies.
Is it nesacery? No, not at all, but to me it does eliminate any problems from bad fuel, and if you've ever chased that gremlin before...lol
 
For long term storage, if it were me, I'd drain the tank, then run the remaining little amount of fuel in the pump etc until the bike stops running. Then remove the fuel tank and open the cap and let it fully dry out inside the tank.
Take it into the house and store it in the spare room, stable temps and low humidity.
Job done.
 
I’ve used 89 octane in my Busa since new. Never any detonation.

That bike of yours is a gen one (2003 or so?) yes? Gen 1 requires 87. Gen 2 requires 91.

I trust you guys but here abject fear takes over. Idling around stoplight to stoplight next year in 90 degree weather I will worry to death.

I decided to start with the easiest route. After work I took probably my last ride and coldest ride ever at 47°F and it was surprisingly refreshing. Work has been real high pressure so I could have ridden to the Arctic and thoght, "This is better than work!" I rode to the station to fill the tank. I added some ethanol-free 89. Holy cows, $6/gallon. I cannot get myself to fill it with 89. So I filled the rest with the next up which happens to be 93. At least I gleefully lowered the volume of ethanol.

I will attempt to keep the tank propped for this project but if clearance becomes an issue then I will siphon, remove, and refill it.

My dad always used this:


I used this and Seafoam for a long time. Then I saw testing where this stuff all caused corrosion. Last season I put nothing in the Hayabusa. It started right up. With little air in the tank, the gas just is not going to oxidize much especially during the cold when chemical processes slow to a crawl.

My VFR requires Seafoam on periodic intervals. The starting and idling becomes noticeably different. I requested that the mechanic who has it now go through that fuel system and replace filter/screen as I am guessing that has not been touched.

Overall with my vehicles & equipment I now do everything possible to reduce or eliminate the use of cleaner/preservative.
 
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