Help me out brotheren especially gsx1300r

Discussion in 'Nitrous' started by Dark3, Oct 26, 2015.


  1. Dark3

    Dark3 Registered

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    So a motor build or turbo is in the cards at some point but in the meantime i think i wanna throw a shot on this 1340. So I hear a 40 shot is safe so a 30 shot would be extra safe right or just go with the 40? Bike has 3500 miles. I have the ability to build a good tafr map (pretty good with WRT) and datalog and change AFR so what would be a good tafr for spray? What would be a good cost effective option ie.. What nozzles, line, rails or what, Full trottle switch, toggle switch selenoid and b mode map?? Should i shoot for the biggest bottle i can mount to the side of my +6 trac arm, 2.5, 5lb? What brand? What delivery option keeping in mind cost effective and my ability to build a toggle map to fatten it up?? Roll on raced, 2013 bumble bee in need of a beemer killing shot of crank.
     
  2. Gixx1300R

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    You can go with either a spraybar or a fan spray nozzle. Reflash the ECU to spray the injectors at 50/50
     
  3. Jeremy Godo

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    i have a 2005 stock bus i want to do something similar. is a 40 shot of dry nitrous safe?
     
  4. Gixx1300R

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    yes it will with the proper tuning
     
  5. Dark3

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    I know you can tell me more than that lol.
     
  6. Blackmax

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    Talk to Nick Smith Performancefirstcycles about a spray bar and anything you need , Remember gen2 blocks dont like spay if you punch your's out you will need a gen1 block for lots of NOS
     
  7. Blackmax

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    I really should read these from the start , Your already talking to Nick
     
  8. Dark3

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    Ecu to spray 50/50? Im not great with injector duty cycle, pressure, volume knowlage. With a 30 or 40 shot dry shot with a rail, is it as simple as boosted fuel by 10-15% for the area of the map being sprayed, datalogging, then applying changes in fuel to dial in a 12-12.5 afr??
     
  9. Dark3

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    AND.. What is the best way to activate for my use? I hear the full throttle switch isnt as good as button activation but cant see why. I would be running a rich b mode map when lining up to race anyway. There will be no part throttle spray needed and i wont be running that rich map without spray unless the opposition isnt worthy of a race anyways.
     
  10. oldgixxer

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    Name:
    rob mac
    Im sure you're very proficient with the Woolich stuff,but IMO its best if you take your bike and have a professional tuner make you a map if you are spraying. Its not worth toasting a motor.
    Also,the valve springs on a Gen2 are very light,you may want to be swapping those out too if you're spraying a 30-40hp shot.
    Gen2 is limited to 4psi with a stage 1 turbo due to the OEM valve springs,which is 220-230rwhp and thats right where you will be with a 40hp shot. Wait for the experts to chime in Im sure they will set you up right.

    I dunno,Im no nitrous guru,it's just a thought.
     
  11. Kevin Jones

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    Alan, if you call Sidney at MPS performance, he can tell you quite a bit and isn't one of those people who doesn't have time to give you and he isn't going to hide anything from you. Surf the site first. They even have the looms plug n play so you dont have to really wire anything. Bar mount map switches, the whole shebang. He just sells stuff for MPS so he is going to tell you about what you can do with what kits they have, what is safe and stuff. And they have a lot. MPS is like nitrous warehouse. If you want to go used, you can try to look on psychobike for someone with a rail already installed in the box n solenoids n stuff but it takes time to find a deal on there. I wouldn't ask him for tuning suggestions. Just stick with the hardware questions and set up stuff with him. He knows, but lets find other tuning sources. Tell him what you want to do, highway fun, not drags like he and I are addicted to. Its FL so you wont have to pay tax, just shipping if you buy. The more I deal with them, the more I trust them which I have serious trust issues if that tells you something.
     
  12. Dark3

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    Sounds good. Ill shoot him a call tmrw ;)
     
  13. Dark3

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    You might be right but this might sound crazy but i have read that a stock gen 2 can actually take damn near a 100 shot safely as long as a solid timing and afr tune is applied. Ofcourse i would not get anywhere near that by using a 30 shot but it seems the 1340 can handle a 30 or 40 shot like nothing with a half deacent tune. And again im here to learn and thanks for your advice.
     
  14. Dark3

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    Hopefully you dont see a thread pop up called "well its official, toasted my motor" haha
     
  15. oldgixxer

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    rob mac
    It can,but not with a stock valvetrain.
     
  16. Kevin Jones

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    Modding a cylinder head can be expensive if you go full out but much easier and you dont have to pull the motor. Stock cams line up with the notches and dont have to be degreed. If it were me though, I would put the cyl studs in while snugging the head down so you can get those extra ft lbs of torque on the nuts over the stock bolts but that prevents you from being able to remove the head without pulling the motor. Nope, no I wouldnt. A blown head gasket is not the end of the world. Only a couple times in my life have I heard of someone hydro locking a motor with a blown head gasket. If you blow a head gasket with the stock bolts, you can still pull the head while in the frame and fix it. Even with a 100 shot, he still isnt over 300hp. I dont think its that big a deal.
     
  17. oldgixxer

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    rob mac
    Kevin I hear what your saying and agree for the most part,however,he still has to change those stock valve springs if you go beyond a 30-40 shot. It wont be fun if he spits a shim and destroys the top end. It's happened plenty of times,just do a quick search. Those ti valves have very light seat pressure from the light springs and they dont like anything more than 30-40hp above stock.
     
  18. Dark3

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    This is becoming discouraging. Really looking for a small boost in power for the meantime before i crack the motor open. I think i have done everything possible though
     
  19. Dark3

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    Maybe running e85??
     
  20. Kevin Jones

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    Hmm, isn't there a tool that you can replace those valve springs without pulling the head? If so, you could actually just pull the valve cover and do it in the frame.
     

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