Gen1 stock Overheat?

L

loniki09

Registered
Hey Guys !

The Gen1 Busas from my father and me have the same "Problem" maybe its a normal case with the Gen1 Busa but i dont know. The Busas are completely Stock.

When its hot outside ( 25-30 celsius) and we stand a longer time in Traffic, the Needle from the Water temp. Goes up until the fan gets on. All normal. But when we stay longer because of trafficjam or something, the red temperature light goes on. Is it the same with your Busas?

On my Gixxer 1000 or my ZX9R or any other bike i rode so far, the fan gets on, the temp. Gets lower until the fan gets off, temp. Goes higher... fan goes on.. and so on. Never saw the red temp. Light on any of that bikes...
 
loniki09 said:
Hey Guys !

The Gen1 Busas from my father and me have the same "Problem" maybe its a normal case with the Gen1 Busa but i dont know. The Busas are completely Stock.

When its hot outside ( 25-30 celsius) and we stand a longer time in Traffic, the Needle from the Water temp. Goes up until the fan gets on. All normal. But when we stay longer because of trafficjam or something, the red temperature light goes on. Is it the same with your Busas?

On my Gixxer 1000 or my ZX9R or any other bike i rode so far, the fan gets on, the temp. Gets lower until the fan gets off, temp. Goes higher... fan goes on.. and so on. Never saw the red temp. Light on any of that bikes...
Click to expand...

man?

kennst du das deutsche haya-forum nicht ?
hayabusa.de ganz einfach und brauchst dich nicht mit der übersetzerei zu quälen - ich bin da als schleife2 zu finden. ;)

watch my german homepage at fj1200-3cv.de and the haya - part there and you´ll find THE solution for ur issue
lil hint - move the fan-switch from radiator into the rubberline at the right side .

das benötigte t-stück + stopfen + schellen habe ich normalerweise im regal - kostenpunkt für das set : 65,-€ + porto

and damn hell if the red light comes on combined with a very high waterlevel in the expansion , ur head gasket is in hige danger to be blown through.
the waterlevel usually goes only two fingers high over the "F" mark at the reservoir
what temp. ever the water have - so my experiances over the last 17 years.

2 (3) steps right now! or u are at the best way to kill ur engine

1. build in the "T" from my page and test again if red light comes still on
AND fill and bleed the rad. like it is described here in german or c10 shows in his video here at the .org (sorry guys this link leads to my german page)

2. change the standard switch (105-108°C) in the radiator to the one from the in germany so called "burgman" (scooter) - this switches at 94-98°C , suzuki part-number : 17680-50F11

3. if then the red light still comes on rip the engine out and renew the head gasket

my temp gauge stops , no matter what temps i meet in the jam here in berlin , 2 mm under the mid-mark and never higher.
 
Last edited:
Willkommen....

Many gen 1 owners do the second fan mod...

If this is happening too both Hayabusas in the same conditions, I'd say try the second fan mod before anything else...the chances that the thermostats or coolant levels in both bikes are out of whack is pretty remote...but they should be checked as well.
 
Bumblebee said:
Willkommen....

Many gen 1 owners do the second fan mod...

If this is happening too both Hayabusas in the same conditions, I'd say try the second fan mod before anything else...the chances that the thermostats or coolant levels in both bikes are out of whack is pretty remote...but they should be checked as well.
Click to expand...

yeah bee

that would be no 4 in my list above (forgot it)

but the 2nd fan mod in my opinion is the most complex,

a very suitable second fan must be found for this,
then the rad. completely out and permanently rebuilt
and then put the whole thing back together

and don't forget to replace the old 10A fuse with a 15A one.

_________________________________________________________

on the subject of fans, i have another idea, namely that the flapper of the gen1 fan itself should be replaced by another flapper with more and, above all, better-shaped wings,
to increase the air flow of the gen1 fan.

I'm still tinkering around with it - but I won't be giving out any information on this without a clear quantity measurement using an anemometer and a quantity comparison.

if something really turns out to be positive, I'll write it down on my homepage.
 
I think Muzzy or somebody makes a different pitch fan blade that moves a little more air. I have one in my Gen 1 but it was so long ago I don't remember who sold it to me.

What about additive called Water Wetter? Anybody using that pink stuff?
 
Berlin Germany said:
yeah bee

that would be no 4 in my list above (forgot it)

but the 2nd fan mod in my opinion is the most complex,

a very suitable second fan must be found for this,
then the rad. completely out and permanently rebuilt
and then put the whole thing back together

and don't forget to replace the old 10A fuse with a 15A one.

_________________________________________________________

on the subject of fans, i have another idea, namely that the flapper of the gen1 fan itself should be replaced by another flapper with more and, above all, better-shaped wings,
to increase the air flow of the gen1 fan.

I'm still tinkering around with it - but I won't be giving out any information on this without a clear quantity measurement using an anemometer and a quantity comparison.

if something really turns out to be positive, I'll write it down on my homepage.
Click to expand...
Hi Muzzy fan was from an applanince like a frige. I have been trying to find out the part # but with no luck so far.
 
Zerks said:
I think Muzzy or somebody makes a different pitch fan blade that moves a little more air. I have one in my Gen 1 but it was so long ago I don't remember who sold it to me.

What about additive called Water Wetter? Anybody using that pink stuff?
Click to expand...

Yes, an aluminum Muzzy fan blade, but unfortunatley...long discontinued
 
Bumblebee said:
Wouldn't the fans and relay from a gen 2 work for this as well....
Click to expand...

yeeeeeeeeeeeeeessssss

but that huge job nobody wants to do i guess.

not too long ago I tried it technically - but I refrained from doing it again because it's just too cumbersome to attach the two gen2 fans to the gen1 radiator.

and @sixpack577
the aluminum fan blade mod only came about because the plastic fan had melted in very few turbo conversions.

it can hardly have brought more air flow, since otherwise it seems to have exactly the same dimensions and shape as the original made of plastic.

i'm sure I can say that because I happen to have a "muzzi" lying around in the workshop and was able to compare it with the original.
 
@Bumblebee

@sixpack577

something else on the subject of overheatinga
little longer story (sorry) ;)

friend jacko's gen1-turbo got so hot after 15 minutes of running
(on the lift)
that i was scared and anxious.

second fan mounted and the problem was almost gone - attention - without side panels !!

put side panels back on and the problem was back - super hot and the pointer in the gauge went up very well past the middle.

when driving, even in traffic jams at temps (outside) around 25°C without side panels,
no problems.

but as soon as the side panels were back on, the water temp went up massively again.

damn crap - I was about to give up.

then, after thinking for a long time, an idea came up , i measured the co - values that came directly from the exhaust pipe, i.e. zero cat or something
and the result was damn shocking.

warm engine, slightly increased idling at 1300 rpm and there were 0.03% co - so a lambda almost equal to 1,
which for me meant that the engine was running lots too lean.
should be around 0.88-0.92 % or so at 1300 rpm.

I then flashed the 16-bit ecu using a here so called "yoshi-box" in such a way that I got a co-value of around 2.5% at 1300 rpm .

and?

everything is chic ´n nice - no overheating any more - even after a brisk ride at the freeways and very slow driving in city traffic directly afterwards no more issues.

my resume from it?

if a gen1 has temp problems, the lambda value should be measured directly behind the manifold / collector (WITHOUT catalytic converter etc.)
and if it is too lean, simply enrich it slightly to around 2.5%.
after that the problem should (hopefully) be gone.

but
if it still overheats, 99.99% of the time the head gasket is gone and needs to be replaced.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@Bumblebee

@sixpack577

something else on the subject of overheatinga
little longer story (sorry) ;)

friend jacko's gen1-turbo got so hot after 15 minutes of running
(on the lift)
that i was scared and anxious.

second fan mounted and the problem was almost gone - attention - without side panels !!

put side panels back on and the problem was back - super hot and the pointer in the gauge went up very well past the middle.

when driving, even in traffic jams at temps (outside) around 25°C without side panels,
no problems.

but as soon as the side panels were back on, the water temp went up massively again.

damn crap - I was about to give up.

then, after thinking for a long time, an idea came up , i measured the co - values that came directly from the exhaust pipe, i.e. zero cat or something
and the result was damn shocking.

warm engine, slightly increased idling at 1300 rpm and there were 0.03% co - so a lambda almost equal to 1,
which for me meant that the engine was running lots too lean.
should be around 0.88-0.92 % or so at 1300 rpm.

I then flashed the 16-bit ecu using a here so called "yoshi-box" in such a way that I got a co-value of around 2.5% at 1300 rpm .

and?

everything is chic ´n nice - no overheating any more - even after a brisk ride at the freeways and very slow driving in city traffic directly afterwards no more issues.

my resume from it?

if a gen1 has temp problems, the lambda value should be measured directly behind the manifold / collector (WITHOUT catalytic converter etc.)
and if it is too lean, simply enrich it slightly to around 2.5%.
after that the problem should (hopefully) be gone.

but
if it still overheats, 99.99% of the time the head gasket is gone and needs to be replaced.
Click to expand...
Hi. Do you want to sell the Muzzy fan and shipped to the UAS?
 
Berlin Germany said:
yeeeeeeeeeeeeeessssss

but that huge job nobody wants to do i guess.

not too long ago I tried it technically - but I refrained from doing it again because it's just too cumbersome to attach the two gen2 fans to the gen1 radiator.

and @sixpack577
the aluminum fan blade mod only came about because the plastic fan had melted in very few turbo conversions.

it can hardly have brought more air flow, since otherwise it seems to have exactly the same dimensions and shape as the original made of plastic.

i'm sure I can say that because I happen to have a "muzzi" lying around in the workshop and was able to compare it with the original.
Click to expand...

I have never had a Muzzy fan, and did not know(or say) if there was any difference, other than the material.
I was just confirming their exhistance, and that they havn't been available in a long time.
But, good to know that the aluminum fan is otherwise the same as the plastic one, same cfm.
 
michael parris heuberger said:
Hi. Do you want to sell the Muzzy fan and shipped to the UAS?
Click to expand...
dude

what do u think the shipping alone will cost ?

i estimate around 50-60 € - the fan should bring some 100 € (the new price was exorbitant high)
so the sum woul be around 160 € - damn expensive for a thing no one really needs , i guess .

and to be shure that i have it still in my shelf i will control that today ;)
 
WuzzaCBXRider said:
The OP has posted (once) four days ago and hasn’t answered any questions or provided any more information.
Click to expand...

jep
and believe it or not

he´s german and i sent him my phonenumber

and?

nothing - no call - quietness till today .

he answered only that he´s "thinking" about to phone me "next" days . :banghead:

I have to admit that I'm a bit upset about this refusal of help.
but who cares - who doesn't want to, ....
cwm50.gif
 
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