Gen I Hayabusa - Stage One "Sleeper"

[BigRod1300]

So even for everyday commuting, it would be alright without an intercooler? I just want to make sure it won't overheat. What are my limitations without an intercooler (ie: no five mile stretch with full throttle, etc.)? Water-injection...???

Intercooler ONLY helps cool the air going IN...not cooling of the motor. You would not be running enough boost to need the intercooler to cool the air to say down on pump fuel...that is where the plus of it comes in. I have an ultra lig/air intercooler..thu not connected now untill I do more mods and up the boost. It will help me run 18 boost on 93 pump.

The turbo puts out a lot of heat but just do the dual fans with MUZZY blades and you should be fine.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

Intercooler ONLY helps cool the air going IN...not cooling of the motor. You would not be running enough boost to need the intercooler to cool the air to say down on pump fuel...that is where the plus of it comes in. I have an ultra lig/air intercooler..thu not connected now untill I do more mods and up the boost. It will help me run 18 boost on 93 pump.

The turbo puts out a lot of heat but just do the dual fans with MUZZY blades and you should be fine.

Thanks for the input. I will look into the dual fan mod.

So in my case, where I'd only want something around 250hp or less (only because I don't want to get into doing any major engine work), I'm going to opt out getting an intercooler - save myself $1,200.

As for rideability with stage one, how does it ride in 6th gear? I know 250ish hp is a lot, but nothing in comparison to those fellars running 400hp+!!!!!!!! Does it wheelie crazily in the last gear, let alone any other gear?

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

If you put exh cans on you might want to consider taking the packing out of them..see what others say too

What are the benefits of unpacking it? I ask because I always thought it was just for noise reduction.

 

[BigRod1300]

Thanks for the input. I will look into the dual fan mod.

So in my case, where I'd only want something around 250hp or less (only because I don't want to get into doing any major engine work), I'm going to opt out getting an intercooler - save myself $1,200.

As for rideability with stage one, how does it ride in 6th gear? I know 250ish hp is a lot, but nothing in comparison to those fellars running 400hp+!!!!!!!! Does it wheelie crazily in the last gear, let alone any other gear?

The big HP is ONLY there when into boost...other wise its a stock motor! If your in 6th and still pulling boost....youll be flying and running out of road FAST!

Think of this way, you be running a stock motor, until you twist the wrist to bring boost...then when the Rs settle and boost goes down....its still just like stock at 60mph. You will feel boost through excelleration only.
I dyno at 254HP on 8psi boost ( And Im running an OSD 330 rear tire ) and just now studded the head....NO spacer and lover it..still stock low end due to the higher compression. If you plan to run over 6psi boost...ATLEAST stud the head!

 

[RYC1966]

I bought the rcc full pipe for a stage 1 single side + the dump pipe set up.

The turbo decreases the noise vs running an open stock header...so by taking the packing out of the can you are flowing more air / less resistance with a turbo.

I was told that if you have the full exh pipe / turbo with a tune and you want to switch to a dump pipe you should get another tune.

Another option could be to have the dump pipe wrap under the belly and and have a fake pipe and can contiune out towards the back...that way you get the benefit of power and looks of a regular exh system

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

The big HP is ONLY there when into boost...other wise its a stock motor! If your in 6th and still pulling boost....youll be flying and running out of road FAST!

Think of this way, you be running a stock motor, until you twist the wrist to bring boost...then when the Rs settle and boost goes down....its still just like stock at 60mph. You will feel boost through excelleration only.
I dyno at 254HP on 8psi boost ( And Im running an OSD 330 rear tire ) and just now studded the head....NO spacer and lover it..still stock low end due to the higher compression. If you plan to run over 6psi boost...ATLEAST stud the head!

So, just to clarify, how much boost can I run maximum so that I wouldn't need an intercooler for overheating (or any other additional parts for anything else to run effectively)? I know that the more compressed the air, the hotter it is. So is running something like 5psi my max? And with that, how much power would I get?

I see you got 254hp on 8psi. I want the same horsepower about, but think that running that high of boost would be bad for a stock motor.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

I bought the rcc full pipe for a stage 1 single side + the dump pipe set up.

The turbo decreases the noise vs running an open stock header...so by taking the packing out of the can you are flowing more air / less resistance with a turbo.

I was told that if you have the full exh pipe / turbo with a tune and you want to switch to a dump pipe you should get another tune.

Another option could be to have the dump pipe wrap under the belly and and have a fake pipe and can contiune out towards the back...that way you get the benefit of power and looks of a regular exh system

lol I'm good on that fake pipe idea. hahaha - I'd rather have dump pipes or a single-sided can than having two unusable exhaust cans hanging for no reason. Thanks for the tip though.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

Oh and how much more beneficial is it to have the turbo air filter stick out of the fairing in comparison to having it inside the body work? Is there a huge gain in power - numbers? I know it'll defeat my "sleeper" look purpose, but something this inconspicuous at a quick glance should be fine with me.

 

[megawatt]

Oh and how much more beneficial is it to have the turbo air filter stick out of the fairing in comparison to having it inside the body work? Is there a huge gain in power - numbers? I know it'll defeat my "sleeper" look purpose, but something this inconspicuous at a quick glance should be fine with me.

Not a difference at 8psi or lower boost.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

I'm going to have to call around and find out a little more information, but I think I will pull the trigger pretty soon here. I gotta go purchase a decent digital camera as well, so I could document every step that I go through.

Things to purchase:

RCC stage one turbo kit - $4,200 (any better deals out there?)
BOV - $375
Power Commander III - $259
Dyno Tune - $300-$500 (approximate)
Secondary Fan - $49.95
Muzzy fan blades - $39.95 x 2

And some beer for the homies (for after install - don't want intoxicated work )

Anything else I may be forgetting? ???

 

[BigRod1300]

I'm going to have to call around and find out a little more information, but I think I will pull the trigger pretty soon here. I gotta go purchase a decent digital camera as well, so I could document every step that I go through.

Things to purchase:

RCC stage one turbo kit - $4,200 (any better deals out there?)
BOV - $375
Power Commander III - $259
Dyno Tune - $300-$500 (approximate)
Secondary Fan - $49.95
Muzzy fan blades - $39.95 x 2

And some beer for the homies (for after install - don't want intoxicated work )

Anything else I may be forgetting? ???

If you dont plan to roll up to MORE boost latter, the BOV is not needed, thu VERY FUN TO HEAR IT! Mine is STOCK motor but now has the head studded only. So stud the head and run 8psi..on stocker tire you should see a bit more than me ( 265 HP )..and call it done. Or dont stud the head for now and keep bellow 6psi. The small filter in the fairings will only hurt you slightly on hp..not much at that level of power. BUT you limited on stock motor that has NO SPACER plate...at 8spi boost max, in my opinion.

Like said the before the intercooler is not needed untill around 12psi boost if wanting to run on 93 pump gas. I only have it cause I plan to some day go way up in boost ( 18psi )... some day.

 

[BigRod1300]

If you realy want info.....email Richard at RCC. BUT be very prepaired to have you head explode with info.....

 

[megawatt]

Add to your shopping list: Prices are estimates made at 5 am but I think are close...

Add a fuel gauge ($80), two gauge holder ($50) for the boost and fuel gauge, fuel line ($75) if the fuel gauge is a mechanical gauge (not needed if its a electrical type).

Add nordlock header fastners. At $13 for a set you can't beat the price.

If you add the BOV have Richard add it to the plenum when you order the kit. It will be in the correct position and done right.

A "boost by smith" manual fan switch ($30 ish) that is completely plug and play to run the fans when you want but keeps the auto function working when needed.

I added a windage tray from Lees performance ($30) because I was in the oil pan. Not "really" needed but I like the idea and Lee's is dirt cheap compared to the Brocks version. Brocks must make his gold plated or something, that must be why he charges so much ($130) for a piece of bent sheetmetal.

 

[BigRod1300]

Add to your shopping list: Prices are estimates made at 5 am but I think are close...

Add a fuel gauge ($80), two gauge holder ($50) for the boost and fuel gauge, fuel line ($75) if the fuel gauge is a mechanical gauge (not needed if its a electrical type).

Add nordlock header fastners. At $13 for a set you can't beat the price.

If you add the BOV have Richard add it to the plenum when you order the kit. It will be in the correct position and done right.

A "boost by smith" manual fan switch ($30 ish) that is completely plug and play to run the fans when you want but keeps the auto function working when needed.

I added a windage tray from Lees performance ($30) because I was in the oil pan. Not "really" needed but I like the idea and Lee's is dirt cheap compared to the Brocks version. Brocks must make his gold plated or something, that must be why he charges so much ($130) for a piece of bent sheetmetal.

All good thoughts But for the guages I have: Boost, A/F, and an under tank fuel psi gauge ( it can be seen from outside near tank neck ..for tuning ).

 

[george b]

there's some of us trying to do a group buy, why don't you participate in that?? if you're for sure, then we might only need 1 or 2 more people to commit and save $400-$500 each.

search for rcc group buy thread.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

If you dont plan to roll up to MORE boost latter, the BOV is not needed, thu VERY FUN TO HEAR IT! Mine is STOCK motor but now has the head studded only. So stud the head and run 8psi..on stocker tire you should see a bit more than me ( 265 HP )..and call it done. Or dont stud the head for now and keep bellow 6psi. The small filter in the fairings will only hurt you slightly on hp..not much at that level of power. BUT you limited on stock motor that has NO SPACER plate...at 8spi boost max, in my opinion.

Like said the before the intercooler is not needed untill around 12psi boost if wanting to run on 93 pump gas. I only have it cause I plan to some day go way up in boost ( 18psi )... some day.

Wow. That's the information I was looking for!

Is it hard to stud the head? I mean, does that just mean getting stronger head bolts so that with the added pressure from the turbo, it won't fly off the top? lol

Thanks though, this information really helped me out.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

Ohh, and although I may not want more power down in the future, I think a BOV is just B.A. Gotta have one for the turbo - sound is just extacy.

there's some of us trying to do a group buy, why don't you participate in that?? if you're for sure, then we might only need 1 or 2 more people to commit and save $400-$500 each.

search for rcc group buy thread.

I will look into it man. Thanks. But right now, I'm still gathering a little more information before I make any purchases. Although I may not need it, I might want to stud the head.

 

[BigRod1300]

Wow. That's the information I was looking for!

Is it hard to stud the head? I mean, does that just mean getting stronger head bolts so that with the added pressure from the turbo, it won't fly off the top? lol

Thanks though, this information really helped me out.

It took 5hr to drop out the motor, pull the cams, pull the head, new head gasket, APE Pro-mod STUDS and nuts, and put it all back together and motor back in.

The stock head bolts tend to stretch...so use the APE pro-mod studs.

 

[Hayabusa=Mistress]

Back to the exhaust question. It looks like the dump pipes on the RCC turbo set-up are pretty huge in diameter (for more air to be released). I'm curious about the folks with the optional turbo can. Does that have a larger diameter pipe all the way from the turbo to the can? Is the muffler can bigger as well?

I like the dual pipes so was wondering if I could use the same Yoshimura pipes I already have and fabricate the mid pipe all the way to the turbo to just be bigger in diameter (as big as the big dump pipe on the RCC turbo?). Or would the Yoshi pipes not work because the cans themselves are too small?

Side Note: Does the dump pipes that the RCC kit comes with get your right leg hot (ie: at idel and/or during movement)? I am curious because the dump pipe seems to release a lot of hot air towards the leg.

 

[smithabusa]

when you get on the throttle hard for extended periods things get warm, on my yellow bikw when i have the dump pipes installed i keep my foot as far back as i can if i am blasting several gears under boost.