Gen 2 Busa Ecu Flash
- Thread starter BANDITBUSA
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Rivercop UK
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Yea, to be fair I was surprised to ... However as I'm not going ANYWHERE near the fuel tables I don't need to be a rocket scientist.
Think the most difficult parts going to be fitting the boost box wires. Instructions are OK but I expect trouble.
Think the most difficult parts going to be fitting the boost box wires. Instructions are OK but I expect trouble.
The 2 wire jumper is easy to install.
Just make sure you hear and feel each pin click as it goes into its location.
If they don't seat correctly you could get all sorts of gremlins.
You can flash the ecu back to stock at any time. Very simple.
Nothing to worry about.
Johnnycheese
Registered
on the pull down menu there is a item that says "read" click that and it will copy what is in it. This is for gen 2 only and hook a charger up it takes 9 min
Mikew777
Registered
I have a pcv. I was going to send my ecu out to get it flashed. I wanted to be able to use it with an air shifter instead a kill box. Greg smith (boostbysmith) talked me into his harness because I will be able to change almost anything and everything. Especially with an air shifter I will have to find the right amount of kill time. I watched his videos and it seems pretty straight forward. I think....
Rivercop UK
Registered
It does say in the ECU Editor instructions that you should not use a PC3 or PCV with the Flashed ECU. Basically the PC fights the ECU and can screw it all up, ending up with a lean bike and damage.
Mythos
Registered
mikew777, better find out from someone who knows for sure but seems to me using a PCV with ECU Editor would be the same as using a PCV with a flash. If the fueling has already been adjusted in ECU Editor, it probably is about as lean as you can safely go. The typical PC5 map will be aiming to do the same thing so what you end up with after the PC5 adjusts the fueling signal after it comes from the ECU is probably going to be twice as lean as you should go. Could be real trouble especially at high rpm.
If the stock fueling was not changed in ECU Editor, you might be able to use your PC5 safely. If you had Autotune or Wideband2, that would tell you if you were running lean. You would be able to see if it was working properly by looking at the AFR. The AFR should stay close to your target AFR at all times if the fueling is really good.
...or it could be a less obvious conflict. I have no knowledge of Smith's ECU Editor module yet. Call him and ask. I'd like to be able to use my tuning equipment with that black box if it is safe to do. I mean, I already own it so be nice to play with it.
If the stock fueling was not changed in ECU Editor, you might be able to use your PC5 safely. If you had Autotune or Wideband2, that would tell you if you were running lean. You would be able to see if it was working properly by looking at the AFR. The AFR should stay close to your target AFR at all times if the fueling is really good.
...or it could be a less obvious conflict. I have no knowledge of Smith's ECU Editor module yet. Call him and ask. I'd like to be able to use my tuning equipment with that black box if it is safe to do. I mean, I already own it so be nice to play with it.
The top tuners here on the board say how they flash the ecu, with Ecu Editor, then adjust the air/fuel with a Power Commander.
As apparently the air/fuel tables are easier to adjust and it does just as good of a job.
I personally am not a dyno tuner, so I cannot say.
As apparently the air/fuel tables are easier to adjust and it does just as good of a job.
I personally am not a dyno tuner, so I cannot say.
Mikew777
Registered
Correct. I am going to flash and use edu editor for kill times on the air shifter. The pcv will be my tune. I have talked to a couple different tuners (Greg smith, Ryan Schmitz, and a couple local ones) a flash with pcv is fine. A flash is just changing restrictions for the most part. The local tuners prefer tuning pcv with a flashed ecru. Also with pvc I have a switch for flipping the tune from street to track. Super easy that way and no need to keep changing the tune after a night at the track.
The default kill time is fine. I think that is 50 milliseconds. You don't need a flash harness unless you want to keep your ABC mode. ECU editor provides for a couple ways of triggering the shift. I find the DSM method more reliable than the gear indicator resistor method and it only takes a couple feet of wire to hook up. The diagram is in the shifter section of ECU editor.
Mythos
Registered
i would suggest you start with a trusted tuner's fuel map.
If you start from a 0 map you'll be doing a lot more runs. what is key is the AFR map. What AFR are you looking for>? It all is pretty irrelevant if you are close to the same elevation as your tuner. 13.5 or 13--you'll never know the diff unlwsss you race. The mao I use has multiple AFR. You know, you don't need max power at 3000 rpm. A street tune might go very lean at that low rpm just to save fuel where you need it.
Start with a tuner's map. That will save you a lot of unnecessary runs.
If you start from a 0 map you'll be doing a lot more runs. what is key is the AFR map. What AFR are you looking for>? It all is pretty irrelevant if you are close to the same elevation as your tuner. 13.5 or 13--you'll never know the diff unlwsss you race. The mao I use has multiple AFR. You know, you don't need max power at 3000 rpm. A street tune might go very lean at that low rpm just to save fuel where you need it.
Start with a tuner's map. That will save you a lot of unnecessary runs.
padrc66
Registered
hi, couple of queries:
has anybody bought the boostbysmith interface in the UK? if so, how much did you get charged in duty and VAT? just trying to work out if this is a cheaper option than the woolich racing box.
i'm putting a 2010 busa engine in a car and won't have the bike clocks so want to be able to check error messages. it would also be useful to turn off the TOS and the ramair correction. if anybody has any suggestions for a way to get the interface cheaper, that would be great. all of the plans for building your own seem to have disappeared off the web unless anybody has a copy?
thanks for your help
has anybody bought the boostbysmith interface in the UK? if so, how much did you get charged in duty and VAT? just trying to work out if this is a cheaper option than the woolich racing box.
i'm putting a 2010 busa engine in a car and won't have the bike clocks so want to be able to check error messages. it would also be useful to turn off the TOS and the ramair correction. if anybody has any suggestions for a way to get the interface cheaper, that would be great. all of the plans for building your own seem to have disappeared off the web unless anybody has a copy?
thanks for your help
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