Trottle reference, at resting position.
Early morning wiring help for pacman
- Thread starter rubbersidedown
- Start date
Throttle reference at wot (go fast mode).
Fast idler reference at fully opened position. Note: mine is a bit off adjustment and revs the bike to about 4k rpms when opened fully. It should be around 2800 to 3000 on a cold bike fully opened.
Now since I had to take it off to get the tank up and get some pics. I have to post this up. I love that thing.
Another eye candy shot....
Huh? Didja say somethin, bro? Sorry...got lost in the CF inners, Ohlins thingy and the Carpenter. DAYUM!
Awesome shots though, mang....many thanks! I'm gonna try and take a look at it tonight and see where I fudged up. The key shots of the screw and throttle cables positions are exactly what I needed! Not to mention that fast idle cable too. I'm gonna count the threads on each one of 'em and do it to spec.
You rock, bro!
Another question, though. My battery's drained, and I don't have a charger. Can I use just a regular car battery (say, for a 4-cyl) to start up the bike? Would I be chancing frying the starter or any of the relays like that?
No prob Pac. If you need a specific spot shot let me know anytime. All I have to do is walk downstairs. No problem.
As far as the start thing... I would leave the dead battery in the bike and jump it with a car. Just be careful not to ground POS on the frame with the big jumper cable clips. I usually make a set of wire extensions if I need to do this. As you know bikes run magnetos and need the battery in place to complete the curcuit. With out one there it wouldn't run.
As far as the start thing... I would leave the dead battery in the bike and jump it with a car. Just be careful not to ground POS on the frame with the big jumper cable clips. I usually make a set of wire extensions if I need to do this. As you know bikes run magnetos and need the battery in place to complete the curcuit. With out one there it wouldn't run.
The top cable in the 3 cable bundle in the first pic is the idler cable. The rest is easy after that.
Aaah....I see! Roger that, sir...
The battery ain't really dead...but it's definitely down on it's charge. I think I may hafta get a new one...if I charge it again, it'll be like the fourth time it's gone on a charger.
Mebbe just put shirts on the frame near the battery terms, right? That should do it?
Thanks again for the pics, mang.
Oh and last thing. After running it for the first time check and recheck for oil pressure, go over all your bolts, connections, etc. It's easy to forget stuff when you're in a rush to get it all together. Take your time and take slow short rides till' you gain confidence in your re-build.
Hmm....I didn't do the oil pressure check thingy. I need a gauge of sorts, yes?
That'll also be a good idea to re-check the bolts and stuff. After all the vibrations and things like that, mebbe some of 'em got loose. I made sure to torquw 'em all down to spec, but I'd rather not lose something on the road when I'm back riding again.
Good tip, bro...thanks!
How would I check for the oil pressure?
This would be the non-educated no skill way of knowing something. Just open your oil fill cap. If its splashin' round in there you know it's all good. This however doesent say much about the top of the motor. You just have to listen. Any ticking or whine or squeal, shut it off immediatly. I doubt you will have any issues since the bike ran fine before your mishap. I think there is something you can buy that taps off your oil pressure sensor as a diagnostic tool. Try checking the shop service manual.
Basically let the thing run and get to temp for 10 or so minutes. Let the fan start, coolant run its cycle etc. Keep a hawks eye on your instruments and check and recheck. You probably know all this stuff, but its easy to forget when you're excited about getting your steed out for the first time in a long time.
Aaah! That's exactly my game!
When it was running, I didn't hear any squealin or ticking. Well, none that I could make out from the loudness of the engine. I think I better put on the mids and the cans. Fan was on...runnin like a mofo. Temps got real hot too...damn near burned my foot off with the heat from the headers.
I also checked the gauges. The "FI" light was blinking and "FI" was appearing where the clock is. I dunno what that means.
I mean, I know it means "fuel injection", but I don't know what's causing the problem. I'm startin to eye the pump, but after what Rubbah told me, I'm wondering if the ECU is pickin up chinese (sum ting wong) from the injectors.
Cool pac. If you check around the tail section of the sub-frame on the left side if you're standing behind the bike you'll find a white plug with four connection spots. Two are being used. Jump the two wired connection points and look at your clock display while the FI is flashing. You will get a code ranging from "COO" to "C28" or so. Just look on the shop service manual to find out what the code means.
Cool!! Will do.
Ehh...how do I jump the two wired connections? I know, I know...sorry. Just a new thing for, is all.
Ehh...how do I jump the two wired connections? I know, I know...sorry. Just a new thing for, is all.
just get a piece of wire and stick one connect the two contacts.
Oooook. I'll take my idiot award now, thank you.
Thanks, bro...I'll get on that tonight. I think I have a service thingy printed out of all the codes.
Woot woot...we're making progress!
yep...but the FI light is still blinking and the pump kinda sounds a little rough when it's whirring. I gotta take out the pump tonight and disassemble it. Get rid of that filter on the inside, replace with an external filter.
That, an I gotta readjust the throttle cables and stuff. Not to mention tightening up the cam bolt (which I loosened trying to crank the engine over backwards).
Aaaaannnd....I still hafta put on the mids (dayum thing nearly blew out my ear drums with just the headers) and the cans. Not to mention going over the oil and coolant levels. It's gonna be fun!
You should come over, Ben....it'll be a blast.
That, an I gotta readjust the throttle cables and stuff. Not to mention tightening up the cam bolt (which I loosened trying to crank the engine over backwards).
Aaaaannnd....I still hafta put on the mids (dayum thing nearly blew out my ear drums with just the headers) and the cans. Not to mention going over the oil and coolant levels. It's gonna be fun!
You should come over, Ben....it'll be a blast.
If I had the money bro... It'd be funyep...but the FI light is still blinking and the pump kinda sounds a little rough when it's whirring. I gotta take out the pump tonight and disassemble it. Get rid of that filter on the inside, replace with an external filter.
That, an I gotta readjust the throttle cables and stuff. Not to mention tightening up the cam bolt (which I loosened trying to crank the engine over backwards).
Aaaaannnd....I still hafta put on the mids (dayum thing nearly blew out my ear drums with just the headers) and the cans. Not to mention going over the oil and coolant levels. It's gonna be fun!
You should come over, Ben....it'll be a blast.
Paul (GMbusa) had a problem when putting his bike back together of the pump not cycling. Turned out there was a hidden connection that wasn't together. Took us 30 minutes to find it...
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