Haha yep. That's why I'm here. I do plan on doing some more of this in the future so I'm not so worried about the tools. I'm hoping y'all will continue with the feedback until she's buttoned up!You my friend are about to learn a lot. I would consider trying to borrow some of the tools required for this job instead of buying them unless you plan to tear motors apart in the future.Over the years I have had several bikes dumped in my lap,or that I bought in cardboard boxes.
Anybody can pull a motor apart...putting it back together is the tricky bit.If you are not 100% sure on something,I would ask the fella's before "winging it",best of luck,
Rubb.
Clutch pushrod oil seal & breaking open the engine
- Thread starter lafave132
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Anybody can pull a motor apart...putting it back together is the tricky bit.
uuuuh yes bros and no
the one screw "covered" by the oilpump - i looked very stupid ´n damn silly where the case parts still are bound together - loool -
the manual told me at least and the job was successfull.
and not to forget the two pins, locking the two bearings of the transmission axles in the crankase lh & rh
hell - i needed 2 or 3 hours to find out a/the trick to get the crankase closed properly again together
info - i had the cyl. and its head left on the upper case part, so the case closing direction was "faulty".
yes i think i know what your´e thinking about - grin
Yes. Its call "ring end gap" and when re-ringing a motor it is a highly critical measurement. To small or to large is really bad news. The rings are different,dont mix them. Also they have to go back into the cylinders with the end gap in different positions "on the clock". Anything to be re-used needs to go back in the hole it came out of.
Rubb.
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dear?
what are you dreaming of? or what stuff did ya smoke?
no one can tell u via the board how to wrench the entire busa.
99% of all faults you have to do alone - sorry in advance
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big sorry in advance again - i´m an old "screw turner" and i usually say what i think so i do here too.
henk - how small is your basic tech. knowledge around motors that u ask for this?
if there was no more gap the ring would be in worst condition - the gap MUST be.
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yeah bros
and all this is best written in the suzuki manual - without following the manuals lines one by one only crap will follow specially at this difficile point.
u´r soooooooooooooooo right
poor man called lafave132
Never broke into a motor before, never seen it either. I usually do a lot of research before doing a job. In this case, I'd be searching forever to find all the answers for every little gap in my knowledge, or big gap I should say. By all means, don't feel obligated to reply to my questions. I try to search for answers before I ask.
I'm assuming the gap there is supposed to be the .03-.06 I've seen them talk about? I don't plan on disassembling the components, I just want to check everything before I put it back together. Makes no sense to be that deep and not replace something if it needs it. But I have no qualms in putting her back with everything the same minus that seal. I also am not too prideful to f*ck up an engine because I didn't want to ask y'all's advice.
Some of y'all live to tell those with questions to quit asking. To you sir, and those, I say shame. To everyone else, thanks for the tips and knowledge!
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or the 
Berlin Germany
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so no damn experiance with that? poor motor i only can resume.
shame?
man the entire gen1 manual has ~ 600 pages
and you want all the info and knowledge in some 10 or 20 lines of writing here?
this idea would be a nonsense because impossible.
if you wanna suck sombody´s experiance sit next 10 years beside him and watch what and in what way / in what manner he does what he does.
and after some years of sitting there you will only have a little idea what is still missing in your knowledge.
or should i for example tell you my knowledge built in over 35 years in 30 lines here?
how did i say to an other young man?
yes. (try to quote myself)
"i forgot in the last 40 years more than he learned in his 30 years of life".
so think a bit about this and then write shame again
and i´ll feel like a by the queen´s sword touched man and everybody has to call me "Sire", because then I would be a nobleman.
First off to do the clutch seal, the head does not need to come off. But to answer your question, Dont take shortcut's. Shortcuts are your leaks down the road! Next time post first and ask first.
So now that you are where you are at, here is a list of to do's
Pair valve delete
Push rod seal
Trans Output seal
Shift shaft seal, and gasket
Stator Gasket
Starter gears covers
Cam chain tensioner Gasket and crush washers
Oil lines Crush washers
Oil Pan
O Ring for Crank Balancer
O Ring Water Pump
O rings oil cooler
Exhaust Gaskets
At this point there are only a few small things left, that are not touched
Usually if the Push rod seal is leaking, it come to 2 culprits.@mabupa
at 2nd
whenever i will find that leaking seal i will try to glue into the crankase housing wall a "standard" seal without that "wreath / lip" that usually grabs into that gap / milled indentation in the crankase´s wall.
as @c10 wrote in that post the kawasaki seal has no such lip and my yamaha fj1200 seal is built same way like the kawa. seal is simply plugged in - thats all.
at the moment i have technically no clue if the pressure inside the busa´s gearbox housing is so high that it would press out a seal without a lip.
but if you compare the gearboxes in general, the pressure in the busa´s gearbox housing should not be so high that the seal would be pushed out.
as I said - in the next case of leaks at that seal I will do the test and glue in a standard seal with temp-resistant (180 ° C and higher) silicone.
the main thing with that would be that both, the seal´s inner and outer diameter, fit 100% exactly.
if this, my idea, would work fine @Kiwi Rider(
) won´t make anymore that big money turnover (pulling the engine and so on - in summ ~ 15 h)
the costs would drop to less then 1/10 of these costs
1 Chain damage
2 Very high mileage, over 80000
ufukthegixxer
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great idea!yeah @mabupa
and for or better against the rusty rod we here have THE solution
this here
View attachment 1629507
View attachment 1629508
it does two great jobs in one
1. it covers the entire rod by the "pipe" - from slave to the seal in the crankase
2. it covers the slave´s piston against all kind of dirt by its flange
it fits at gen1 and gen2
with one little unfortunate context
the "rear" m6 nut scratches a little bit at the chain at front sprocket and you can hear it the first let me say 1000 miles
then the chain took its place back by scratching away the nut and no more noise is audible.
i could only strongly recommend this piece - i already "sold" it, i guess, around 4 dozen (or more) times
here a pic of a gen1 sprocket cover with the piece above
View attachment 1629509
the "blue" is a thread locking glue
mostly available at kojak´s german hayabusa shop
(for the exact description follow this link to google online translation)
kojak is also a member of this forum - see here
@Kojak
Unsure on chain damage, he did put a new chain on and rear sprocket. They both have 0 miles so I'm assuming something went on there. He said it's at 23000 for milage
The hidden 6mm bolt is under the Crank balancer not the oil pump.
Thanks for the list! I have most, if not all, of those on the way. The haynes manual I'm following did say that you can separate the crankcases without removing everything but that your mechanical experience should be greater than this way. Idk. Just going step by step
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