Spent the last 10 days working on my house, my moms house, and my biz in Hawaii. I woke allmost everyday at 5 a.m. and headed for starbucks then the beach for an hr or so before getting to work. The first day was epic surf about shoulder to head high with only 4 other guys out. The next several days were pretty flat then a big swell hit the west side and I hit it out there to check it out. Some sets were double over head and so I just paddled out and got mostly bounced around but didnt drown.
Did I mention it was 80 degrees + everyday?
Shaka Brah!
Did I mention it was 80 degrees + everyday?
Shaka Brah!