Autocom Installed and ready for the bash

Yes! I have my XM/WX antenna in the "trunk" under the hump and it works fine :thumbsup:
 
Yep, another question. Specify "relay"? what did you wire it to, to get it to turn on/off with the key?

Gonna have to print/keep this thread!
 
Yes! I have my XM/WX antenna in the "trunk" under the hump and it works fine :thumbsup:

Fiberglass (the hump) is neutral to electomagnetic, so it would work fine for any radio/GPS signal. If it had any metal in it, or if the paint was metallic, it wouldn't work.
 
Yep, another question. Specify "relay"? what did you wire it to, to get it to turn on/off with the key?

Gonna have to print/keep this thread!

I picked up a standard 30A relay from the auto parts store, along with the fuse block. I'm using the tail light as a trigger for the relay. I could have run a wire from the front (Euro running light connector), but the tail light works just as well and it's right there.

fuse block.JPG

fuse block.JPG
 
I picked up a standard 30A relay from the auto parts store, along with the fuse block. I'm using the tail light as a trigger for the relay. I could have run a wire from the front (Euro running light connector), but the tail light works just as well and it's right there.

View attachment 134628


Is that grounding bolt the negatives for all your different power lines?

I am wanting to put a brake light modulator on, I wonder if that might cause problems with using the tail light....
 
Yes, that bolt on the bottom is for all the grounds. There is already a nut welded into the subframe; that's just an extra bolt I had lying around that fit right in there ;)

You can still install the brake modulator and use the tail light at the trigger. The tail light comes on (+12V) whenever the key is on...you just need a trigger source for the relay. The brake modulator will use the brake wires, so it shouldn't interfere. Besides, you're grabbing the power BEFORE the modulator - not on the output side.
 
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