Another Newbie

[Dan]

I got a new '06 silver/blue (because it's the fastest  

) last Saturday and have put about 100 miles on it (The weather hasn't cooperated lately).  I stopped by the local dealer Friday after work and picked up oil and a filter.  My plan was to do a quick oil change this weekend and I'm now feeling a little overwhelmed.  According to the book, I have to remove the fairings and that seems a little daunting.  My last two bikes (FZ1 and Bandit 1200S) didn't require this.

How difficult is it to remove the fairing?  I've RTFM and other than a lot of little parts to lose, it doesn't seem too bad.


Thanks,
Dan

PS  Pics will be up soon.

Here are the pics as promised.  

I didn't want to put off uploading the pictures any longer so I took them as soon as I got home.  It's 30F out and you can see the exhaust as I let her warm up.

 

[ranman]

its easy. the first time its slow.
just rember where the bolts came from.

 

[katman]

Hey I noticed your from McKinney I'm near Corpus Christi and the way the weathers been you have nothing better to do but change the oil. Like ranman said just remember where the bolts came from. A trick I use is leav the left side bolts on the left and the right side bolts on the right and you'll be ok.

 

[dadofthree]

 

[dadofthree]

From one newbie to another. Take your time. Besides all the bolts including some underneath, you have two plastic rivets. One's large and up by the tank on top near the tree, the other one is under the nose all the way back toward the radiators. The top one requires a small flatblade ( it's what I use anyway ) the other one is the pop variety and you'll need something small, like a tiny phillips or nail. Once you push this one in about a 1/16 of an inch the rivet should pull out. Pull the pin out about an 1/8 of an inch to reinsert. There's a rubber nipple on top near the tank that simply pulls up and away. Remove the seat first and then raise the tank before starting on the fairing. Remove the oil plug and drain completely. I do mine with the engine hot for a better drain. With the bike on the kickstand, slowly loosen the filter. I had to use channel locks on the factory filter. By doing this the oil drains between the header tubes without making a mess. Don't remove the filter completely until it has drained completely. You'll be a pro soon.

 

[05BusaLe]

Its easy just one important thing get some of that blue painters tape from hardware store and tape the edge of the nose cowl where the side farings meet the nose. This will keep you from scratching the nose pc while puting it back together.

Good luck! and Welcome!

 

[heavybusa]

 

[semi]

to the .org...don't hesitate to ask questions, there is a lot of knowledge on here

 

[fsusux]

And drape some aluminum foil over the headers to keep the oil drips off when you remove the filter.

Oh, and

 

[Dan]

katman,
I moved from South Padre to McKinney and MISS that part of the world. My parents are currently building their retirement place over by Rockport and I should be down that way in March while my kids are on Spring Break.

All,
Thanks for the warm welcome. I look forward to learning and contributing as part of the forum.

Did I mention that THIS IS ONE BAD @$$ BIKE!!!!!


Sorry, that had to be done.

 

[Wag]

After you've done it a few times, the fairing comes off in about three minutes and go back on in about four. But don't rush the first few times. Take your time. Plus, you only need to take off the right side. There is one of those little black push pin rivets under the nose that you have to take out. You can reach it most easily from the top of the bike by reaching in next to the fork. If you know where it is, that is. If you have a flashlight, look up from the bottom and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Use a rear stand if you have it.

What else. . . . .

Oh, don't overtighten the screws on the fairings. I don't know if they have a torque spec but it doesn't take much to strip one out if you're not careful.

Follow the directions in the owner's manual and you're all set! Oil changes are a piece of cake. Hell, If *I* can do it, so can you, I assure you! Just ask MrGxr!

--Wag--

 

[Dan]

Thanks for the encouragement dadofthree. This is the nicest bike I've ever had and I really don't want to mess her up.

 

[dadofthree]

We understand, just wait..............

 

[Dan]

Wag,

I'm already shopping for a rear stand. I looked at the one at the dealership and I'm going to do a bit of research. I saw another article about stands on the forum.

 

[rc51ny]

Welcome to the 'busa world. I had an FZ 1 I traded for my '06 red/black (fastest one?) 'busa. Loved the FZ 1--love the 'busa better. Once you get the right faring off & on, you'll wonder why you were concerned. Good advise from others above. When putting back on, make sure you get the faring "tucked" under in the right spots. I remember getting it 3/4 on and noticed I didn't get it tucked in right. ENJOY!!!!

 

[Pipefighter248]

Welcome.

 

[Wag]

(dtimmer @ Feb. 11 2007,17:09) Wag,

I'm already shopping for a rear stand. I looked at the one at the dealership and I'm going to do a bit of research. I saw another article about stands on the forum.

Just to clarify, you do NOT have to have a rear stand to do your oil change. In fact, it's easier if you DON'T use one but it leaves just a little dab of oil in the case if you use only the side stand. The rear stand will get that last few drops to drain out.

Probably not enough to worry about so don't defer the oil change just because you haven't gotten a rear stand yet!

If you have the cash, go ahead and get the . It's not guarantee that you won't drop your bike raising it up but will probably reduce the number of heart attacks you're likely to have THINKING you are about to drop it!

--Wag--

 

[DaCol.]

 

[TurboSN95]

ok, dumb question - how do you even check your oil level? I haven't done my oil yet (only had my Busa for about 500 miles), but thought the manual said something about a see through inspection window.

Is this inspection window visible with the plastics on? I would hope so, otherwise how can you quickly verify if you have enough oil when the plastics are on?

I'll be attempting my first oil change once the temps warm up again.

 

[Dan]

The inspection window is on the lower right side of the motor. It is just inside the fairing and is visible, just not from straight on.

To check the level, run the motor for a couple minutes the turn the motor off and let it sit for 2 or three minutes. Stand the bike up straight and the oil should be between the L(ow) and F(ull) lines on the inspection window.