Is there any other reason other than cost? I am not opposed to steel but i have apex a6 rims in the works and will transfer the bearings to them once i get that far..
My 2009 Revamp and Build
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JeffSyh
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I’d be scared to try and pull my ceramic bearings out to transfer them into new rims. The ceramic is lighter, stronger and less roll resistant??? Someone will know more about them then me. But world wide bearings is the supplier for almost all ceramic you buy and the steel world wide will be just as good maybe a little more roll resistant for a fraction of the price. I personally think ceramic is a gimmick on wheel bearings and turbos, I’ve seen 100’s of CAT turbos fly apart with ceramic ball bearings due to not being able to handing heat or rotation speed reason why you don’t see ballbearing turbos anymore on heavy duty (but that’s apple to oranges a turbo gets way hotter and spins way faster then a wheel bearing would ever dream) I’d only look at getting ceramic if I had carbon wheels to maximize my purchase and roll resistance.
Lots of opnions on ceramic vs standard bearings, getting close to oil and tire threads.
I say go for the ceramic.
My only concern would be pressing them out to reuse them, as you would only be pressing against the center race, not the outer race, as it is against a shoulder.
Can you press them out undamaged and reuse them? Technically yes.
Should you? That is debateable.
As cheap as steel bearings are, I'de put them in the stock wheels and ceramic in the Apex.
I say go for the ceramic.
My only concern would be pressing them out to reuse them, as you would only be pressing against the center race, not the outer race, as it is against a shoulder.
Can you press them out undamaged and reuse them? Technically yes.
Should you? That is debateable.
As cheap as steel bearings are, I'de put them in the stock wheels and ceramic in the Apex.
Got bike back last night from shop. Its unreal how smooth it rolls now. Might be just me being sensitive to it, but it seems to push way easier. The old bearings in the back were completely shot. Broken retainer rings, rust, and honestly full of sand and grit. Glad they caught this. Ran steel bearings in back and front. Apex rims will get the ceramic bearings. Put the front fender on last night. The bike is heading to st louis on the 25th of this month for all the rest of the motor work, tuning, and assembly.
*edit forgot to mention got new tires installed i went with Shinkos 005 advanced. These will remain on the stock rims. Once the apex come in they will get the diablo rossi tires.
*edit forgot to mention got new tires installed i went with Shinkos 005 advanced. These will remain on the stock rims. Once the apex come in they will get the diablo rossi tires.
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Are you getting a full exhaust to match, or keeping the dump pipes?
Keeping dumps. I had entertained full exhaust but decided not to. Main reason for stealth filter is i did not want to chop holes in new plastic lol.
Is that flat blue like the blue on the Shoei helmets? Like! (How lame is that? Awesome bike build and I comment on the color...)
That's not enough, only 19mm, roughly half of what you need.
I don't understand the wording of your question.
I think he is stretched. Would that change the sag? I seem to remember around 30mm on the ohlins but I'm not sure.
Yes, good catch, he is stretched some, I forgot that.
The forks would be set the same, for the rear, I would personally shoot for the same too, but couldn't honestly say.
That's kind of a gray area, at least to me.
As a stretch is more of a straight line drag, and a completely different setup than corner carving.
When you try and blend it, with a stock rear, I would just have to play with it and hope for the best.
As for Ohlins, of course they would be some of the best people in the world to answer this, but it would be an easy setup with their shock designed for the best compromise.
Your 30mm on the Ohlins will deliver a firm, but planted ride.
Ballpark is usually 30-35mm track
35-40mm street.
Because tracks are smooth and roads are not. But I prefer a harsher ride with more control, vs softer ride and a more sloppy feel in corners.
I keep my sag numbers closer to 30mm too, and adjust slightly by feel from there.
With the way you ride I wouldn't be suprised if your setup is more firm and stable as well...plus you have top of the line pogos anyway.
So yes i am stretched(less than 6 inches closer to 3 i bet). The front laden sag is just under 3/4 of an inch. Meaning when i sit on bike, the suspension compresses just under 3/4 or an inch(aka front end drops on the fork). I also prefer a touch of a firm ride as it does corner better. I also run tire psi at 39-40 front warm and 38-39 rear warm. I have tightened up the rear suspension as I am a heavier guy at 235 245. Rear sag is just a little less but being stretched I do not want to go any looser .
So when i use internet cal to get to mm looks like my front laden sag is about 18.95 to 19.05 roughly. Seems pretty spot on? Rear is just a little tighter.
So when i use internet cal to get to mm looks like my front laden sag is about 18.95 to 19.05 roughly. Seems pretty spot on? Rear is just a little tighter.
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