motor oil

ctkiteboarding

Registered
what are you guys using for oil , 10/40 is in the bike now ,i dropped the oil and filter at about 100 miles when we piped it and now its on 350, a trip to the track will mean a oil change and clutch pac, so what are you guys doing for oils and what holds up the best with heavy race use? thanks
 
I use MOTUL SEMI, IMO the best all around oil on the market
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you need to stick to regular petroleum oils for a bit.. I would not switch to any synthetic till you get at least a 1000m on the odometer...

I run Mobile 1 motorcycle blend
 
the motor needs time to break in, rings need to seat. a full synthetic oil will cause this to take much longer than desired. i buy castrol 10-40 non synthetic by the case for my racebike and change it after every time at the track. my bikes that are street ridden get royal purple full snythetic 10-40 or mobil 1 gold cap 15-50 full synthetic.
 
Also make sure it isn't energy conservation type too!! In the owner manual it says stay away from that type of oil. It will dammage the friction plates. Look on the back of the oil contianer label. It will show you a round circle on the back. I changed to exxon 10w-40 conventional until I am done withthe break in peroid.
 
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Rapstar @ Mar. 17 2008 said:
1340031[/ATTACH] PM]
Shell Rotella T 15/40 ,one of the best oils ever refined.Oh and its $8. a gal @ Walmart!!!  
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+1
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Synthetic

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if you are racing? I would change oil after every outing anyway, so that might influence your choice of oils.. 6-9$ a quart could get old fast...
 
Just a tip .

Energy conserving oils come by way of lower viscosity oil . 5w-20 , 5w-30 and most 10w-30's and are built to shear . The automotive 10w-40's loose out soley on getting that EC rating from being too thick/viscous to pass the Sequence Tests .

The very few 10w-40's that would pass the EC test have viscosity shear built into the formula as well, just as their 30 weight brothers in the line-up and seldom do these shelf oils have different additive packs . 10w-40 Castrol GTX looks to have the near same add pack as the 5w-30 as example . 20w-50 for that matter . Exxon 5w-30/Exxon 10w-40-20w-50 ect.

It's subject to change soon but most current registered JASO MA oils have right around 1200 ppm phosforus , 1300 parts per million zinc as anti-scuff/anti-wear additives . Others have from 2000 ppm to 3200 ppm .

Most if not all shelf product API SM GF-4 automobile mineral oils contain only 500-600 ppm of each ----- this includes the Exxon 10w-40 .

A little fuel dillution , some permanent polymeric shear and these shelf oils can be lowered to a 8 centistoke 20wt from a starting 13.2 cSt 40wt in  matter of
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?? 1000 miles , depending on much .

When I have a 20wt in my engine it is made of TMP , diester or blends of pentaerythritol and polyalphaolefins . These base oils have inherent film strength that mere mortal groups of base oils don't . Please don't point out a test thats on the internet. The oils I use were not included in that one and I often wonder why .  
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As valve train loads become lighter and lighter there's some big changes coming year 2010 for JASO rated bike specific oils . Thank goodness for Maxima and a handfull of other independents because these bikes will still have transmissions to protect .
 
As valve train loads become lighter and lighter there's some big changes coming year 2010 for JASO rated bike specific oils .
I repeat .
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As valve train loads are lightened and the decrease of emissions are asked of the bike makers, come 2010 the bike specific oil world is getting revised deluxe .

One of the OEM branded oil is currently showing this trend in the reductions of zinc/phos and other , through analysis that is .


Protect them if ya got em
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Just a tip .

Energy conserving oils come by way of lower viscosity oil . 5w-20 , 5w-30 and most 10w-30's and are built to shear . The automotive 10w-40's loose out soley on getting that EC rating from being too thick/viscous to pass the Sequence Tests .

The very few 10w-40's that would pass the EC test have viscosity shear built into the formula as well, just as their 30 weight brothers in the line-up and seldom do these shelf oils have different additive packs . 10w-40 Castrol GTX looks to have the near same add pack as the 5w-30 as example . 20w-50 for that matter . Exxon 5w-30/Exxon 10w-40-20w-50 ect.

It's subject to change soon but most current registered JASO MA oils have right around 1200 ppm phosforus , 1300 parts per million zinc as anti-scuff/anti-wear additives . Others have from 2000 ppm to 3200 ppm .

Most if not all shelf product API SM GF-4 automobile mineral oils contain only 500-600 ppm of each ----- this includes the Exxon 10w-40 .

A little fuel dillution , some permanent polymeric shear and these shelf oils can be lowered to a 8 centistoke 20wt from a starting 13.2 cSt 40wt in  matter of
rock.gif
?? 1000 miles , depending on much .

When I have a 20wt in my engine it is made of TMP , diester or blends of pentaerythritol and polyalphaolefins . These base oils have inherent film strength that mere mortal groups of base oils don't . Please don't point out a test thats on the internet. The oils I use were not included in that one and I often wonder why .  
winkold.gif


As valve train loads become lighter and lighter there's some big changes coming year 2010 for JASO rated bike specific oils . Thank goodness for Maxima and a handfull of other independents because these bikes will still have transmissions to protect .
ok ,, so what oil should i use??
 
Dear Robbie & mountainmotor

Leave it to a geek to give a very detailed, academic explanation and still not answer the original question. (I'm a geek, too, so I don't mean any offense.)

I'm interested in mountainmotor's recommendation, too. It sounds as though he really knows about oil. His explanation went completely over my head, but I do recall the acronym JASA in my manual.

I just had the dealer change my oil at 580 miles. Suzuki oil was used. I'm going to change my oil again at 1500 miles and am still unsure of which oil I'll use.

--Jaddie
 
If you stick with SG (per owners manual) grade oil and keep it changed, you will be fine.. Some of the synthetics listed above are not SG rated.. (proceed as your own risk)

What MM is eluding to is the additive packages used in oils.. (can be 25% of an oils volume btw)

They remove some of these additives that provide protection to moving parts (zinc and phosphorus in particular) because they can adversely affect emissions system parts (namely the catalytic converter)

The EPA is dictating what is good for the environment over your transmission/clutch/extreme pressure points in your motor)

Arbitrarily changing or using oils that are not directly specified for M/C use (transmissions and clutches have very different demands) means you could be compromising those specific parts..

(And I am sure someone will jump on and have "Terrific luck" with any number of "non-motorcycle" blends) and maybe they do..

For the rest of the world, try and stick with what the bike maker suggests.. (I think this is "SG" rated lubricants)
 
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