Saving a few oz with c10 and Ti bolts on Gen3

[Dnyce]

Sae has a ton of ti stuff, pretty sure they’ll make anything u want too

[Bumblebee]

Sae has a ton of ti stuff, pretty sure they’ll make anything u want too

I could probably ask Bryan ( @c10 ) but it would be interesting to see what the Ti cost would be to convert even 75% of all the bolts over...

I know the CF route was crazy priced....I would have been down the rabbit hole for around $5k the time I was done...I shut that down...even the two rear signal light pods were around $500, I couldn't shut them down as they were already shipped and received.

[Dnyce]

Probably cheaper to go aluminum where u can and ti on the parts that need it.

[InfiniteReality]

While I have no plans to put the busa on a diet, other than the Ti exhaust.

But the MiniGP on the other hand.... Almost all hardware has been replaced with titanium, grade or 5 depending on location. Titanium axles have been on order, already have Ti engine and swing arm bolts. and still need to replace engine case bolts, but haven't decided on engine choice yet. I found some cheap sources, well cheap for Ti bits.

On similar topic everything I can find with this bike to remake the part in forged carbon I have, work in progress.

Picture of steel hardware is a couple weeks old and has grown since this picture. Other picture is all the old molds for parts I've made for the bike, so far.

[Robert 0046]

Cool, are you keeping up with the total weight loss?
I didn't know they had a titanium front sprocket either, I'll have to look up the weight difference vs steel.
Thank you sir!

Sorry i mean front sprocket nut

[Robert 0046]

Cool, are you keeping up with the total weight loss?
I didn't know they had a titanium front sprocket either, I'll have to look up the weight difference vs steel.
Thank you sir!

No total weight loss just a few bolts and nuts here and there there some other bills to pay jajaja

[c10]

When you go deep into Titanium parts replacement its best not to look at the money figures . Its better that way I know my bike was paid for for the last 3 years I owned it , but I was still making payments to pro bolt and other sources .

[LC4CARL]

Is the smaller chain swap generally OK for non-drag racers?

(I lost 5 lbs this spring, does that count..?)

[c10]

Is the smaller chain swap generally OK for non-drag racers?

(I lost 5 lbs this spring, does that count..?)

I would never advise a smaller chain for a high torque motor . Even if they say same tensile strength . A 525 is smaller than a 530 . that area of weight savings is not worth the risk

[SS4Luck]

Is the smaller chain swap generally OK for non-drag racers?

(I lost 5 lbs this spring, does that count..?)

It’s one of the last places to find weight to take out. “Light weight” bikes help but it’s still kind of a touchy subject for a lot of people.


The EK3D 520 is the strongest 520 I’ve been able to find at 9500 I believe…. And looks great on my bike lol

[LC4CARL]

We die like men…

[SS4Luck]

We die like men…

Chain maintenance is above and beyond important with a 520. I don’t ride without checking tension and running the chain all the way around to make sure nothing is binding or anything.

[pcs]

i would recommend you get something like this if you want to swap hardware out. you can check bolt sizes for yourself. when i went down the Ti bolt swap road for a different project, i found it was easier for me to piece together my own kit and order in bulk rather than to buy small kits at a time.

[sixpack577]

Is the smaller chain swap generally OK for non-drag racers?

(I lost 5 lbs this spring, does that count..?)

My 520mm swap was from a stock 525mm, and is on a Gsxr1k, which has about 15 or 20 less pound feet of torque, and weighs over 120 lbs less than the Busa.
However, the EK3D 520 chain's tensile strength is still stronger than either bike from the factory.
Alot of people still dislike the idea of going to a 520 from a 530 on big bikes.
The 520 chain is able to handle more of a static load, but it is arguable if it can handle the same shock or impact, with less surface area...which is where the torque and weight come in.
Gains should at least be measurable on a time slip or Draggy, but not felt.
Around 2.5 lbs of rotating mass goes away(530 to 520 and including an aluminun rear sprocket, instead of steel), so that goes a long way when you add lighter wheels and rotors...so a few pounds less for the chain to get moving.
I saw quite a few drag Busas with 520 's 10 to 15 years ago, gen1's and gen2's, all motor, 180's whp, and they never had a problem, and chain technology has improved since.