front fork - how to straighten it

[Berlin Germany]

my personal how to .

done at dozens of standard (hanging) forks but not at usd /standing forks yet, but it should work same way

best done when changing fork oil ;-)

as a "little" add to "how to secure the fork is 100% straight in yokes / clamps"

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intro:
the (following) basic scheme is the same for both types of fork (standard - standing / usd - hanging)
especially if you want to change the oil anyway
fork out
Empty the fork completely
put the fork back in
wheel on
move fork including wheel up and down
et cetera

however, this work is only necessary once, if at all, because the fork legs never twist in normal use.
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1. to put the busa on a "middle" stand like this (rod goes through swing arm axle)

made of simple 1" steel pipe and two short 1/2" (horizontal) pipes plus a strong, non-bendable 12mm steel rod (e.g. 42CrMoS4) 650 mm long
(all dimensions see here)

then 2. "getting" the busa´s front wheel 1 inch free of contact to ground by

2a. car lifter / jack under exhaust pipes like this

2b. chain hoist, fastened at the front frame like this

taking out the entire fork
PLUS loosen the 32mm head nut at upper yoke
completely disassemble the fork
then assemble the fork again - thinly oiled sliding rings / bushings
but without
- springs ,
- all inlays,
- caps,
then put the empty fork back into clamps / yokes
then monting the wheel with its only softly hand tightened axle/pivot
then a thin board under the wheel and move the wheel up with this board
by this you see immediately if the fork does its work fine or if it stucks somewhere on its way up and down
forced by the weight of front wheel it should "fall" down absolutely easy
if it doesn´t fall that easy move the wheel a 2nd / 3rd / 4th time with the board up until everything moves easily.
(by that the fork "legs" itself turn a very little in the yokes and become parallel / straight)
then tighten the top nut to around 40 Nm
do the trick with the board again to control the easy up/down moving of fork
if yes, you can put out the fork again
fill it with all yet missing parts and oil
and put the fork again back to yokes and tighten the yoke´s bolts
all 6 to 23 Nm (gen1)
and tighten head nut finally to its torque of 90 Nm
reassemble all other parts to the fork and be happy.
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so far my theorie !
- remember - i didn´t do that work at a usd yet - this text here is a kind of derivation of the work on dozens of standard forks

and if someone follows my description and finds a fault, please tell me ;-)

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edit:

if you´re going to straighten the fork
change steering bearings same time from ball to tapered bearings

BEST change you ever made !

 

[SSGT_B]

Vielen Dank für den durchdachten und informativen Beitrag. bitte entschuldige meinen schlechten versuch auf deutsch und mach weiter so.

I admit that google translator did most of the work. Most of the words I couldn’t remember. Haven’t spoken German in 30 years

 

[Berlin Germany]

at ssgt_b

jo dear mate

THANKS for your so very friendly words and compliments - at some items of the busa i really have special experiences which i like to share them with interested.

and yes - i´m using google for around 50% - this saves a bit of time, because i wrote it partially in german to take then the google´s words

you joined the army here in germany ?
where have you been stationed that time ?