Air Box Mod

[MN72Busa]

Ok, Im doing Brock's airbox mod. Do I keep the metal stuff in the inner circle, or remove it. It was attached to the flapper, and can't tell by Brock's pictures if you remove it or not.

Also, I presume you reattach the hose to the valve on the other side of the Box??? HELP, Im at a stand still...and must keep modding.

https://www.thevmc.com/ - Link no longer works



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[Devil Dog]

Leave it!!!! I just did mine....clean up the edges though! Make sure you stuff a rag in the intake.

[MN72Busa]

stuff a rag in the intake?/? WTF

[Devil Dog]

You don't want all the plastic crap in the motor....

[MN72Busa]

so, wouldnt it be better to just clean out the airbox than put it on?

[Devil Dog]

so, wouldnt it be better to just clean out the airbox than put it on?

I don't understand your question.......Is your airbox still on the bike or did you remove it completely for the mod.

[MN72Busa]

I completely removed it, I cut out the plastic as shown above, than I dremeled and sanded the edges clean --All off the bike. If I dont need to remove the little metal valve inside the circle, I think Im ready to put back on the bike. Am I missing something?

Wouldnt it be best to remove the metal thing, as it looks like it opens and closes when i pull up on it, and its directly attached to a tube on the other side of the box. Yes I already did the pair mod prior to this.

[Devil Dog]

You're golden!!! Install! Sorry, I thought you did the mod on the bike!

[MN72Busa]

Awesome...Thank you Very Much...I appreciate you hanging in there for me, and explaining.

[Panda_1]

sorry bout hijackin your thread, but is there any purpose to an air box mod if you dont have an exhasut or have removed the pair valve?

[MN72Busa]

What the hell Panda - HIJACKIN this Thread....Im kidding

I wouldn't do it if you have stock exhaust. From what I've read here, and from what Im noticing on my bike, is you will create much more airflow with the airbox mod. I think you would have some issues, as your busa would not be as smooth in the lower rpm band without adding an full race exhaust. With stock exhaust I think you would drop torque and possibly hp without adding a full exhaust. Infact I dont think I would consider doing the mod with just slipon's. The airbox mod generates way too much airflow for anything short of a full exhaust. Just my opinion however, you might wanna do a search and read what others have done.

Im not sure if I even like the mod yet, as I did the airbox mod, and had an issue or 2 - than I took the airbox off again, pulled out the acuator valve - plugged off the hose - cut the flapper I removed earyler to size, and epoxyed it to the bottom of the airbox covering the hole where the acuator valve use to be. Now it's running smoother....I guess lesson learned for me was don't do things half way, and read, and fully understand the mod your performing before you do it.

Link to a good airbox mod thread - it helped me out a lot



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[Panda_1]

What the hell Panda - HIJACKIN this Thread....Im kidding

I wouldn't do it if you have stock exhaust. From what I've read here, and from what Im noticing on my bike, is you will create much more airflow with the airbox mod. I think you would have some issues, as your busa would not be as smooth in the lower rpm band without adding an full race exhaust. With stock exhaust I think you would drop torque and possibly hp without adding a full exhaust. Infact I dont think I would consider doing the mod with just slipon's. The airbox mod generates way too much airflow for anything short of a full exhaust. Just my opinion however, you might wanna do a search and read what others have done.

Im not sure if I even like the mod yet, as I did the airbox mod, and had an issue or 2 - than I took the airbox off again, pulled out the acuator valve - plugged off the hose - cut the flapper I removed earyler to size, and epoxyed it to the bottom of the airbox covering the hole where the acuator valve use to be. Now it's running smoother....I guess lesson learned for me was don't do things half way, and read, and fully understand the mod your performing before you do it.

Link to a good airbox mod thread - it helped me out a lot

........ lol, thanx for answering my question!

[shenoyp]

The airboxmod actually does not add to too much HP gains!! Its marginal... so never felt comfortablecuttingmy airboxformarginal gains

[Charlesbusa]

I wouldn't due the airbox mod with a full system. I wouldn't due the airbox mod at all. But that's just me...

[manatrader]

Ok, Im doing Brock's airbox mod. Do I keep the metal stuff in the inner circle, or remove it. It was attached to the flapper, and can't tell by Brock's pictures if you remove it or not.

Also, I presume you reattach the hose to the valve on the other side of the Box??? HELP, Im at a stand still...and must keep modding.

https://www.thevmc.com/ - Link no longer works

Did you remove the pair too? It does appear you have done things right, but you do plug things on the bottom if you did the pair.



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[MN72Busa]

manatrader -

Yes I removed the Pair Valve and used one of Reaper's kits with gaskets to block it off.My picture was taken right after I drilled the holes in the airbox, and than removed the section with a razor knife & serated knife. I than used a dremel to clean up the rough spots (which you can see from the picture above, there were a lot of rough spots - very hard plastic), and than did a final sanding to make the edge silky smooth. I removed the "Intake air control valve acuator" and plugged the "Vacuum control solenoid valve tube". I than took the flapper (which was previously removed), cut a piece about 2.5" by 3" and used 90 second plastic epoxy to cover the hole from the "Intake air control valve acuator" on the bottom of the airbox.

If I took another picture you would see no Intake air control valve acuator" as listed on page 4-22 of the service manual. From what I've read, I guess a guy could just remove the flapper, but I would still plug the "Vacuum control solenoid valve tube". If you remove the flapper, I would see no reason to not plug the bottom, becuase the acuator is there to control the flapper...which is gone, so it only makes sense to remove and plug it up properly.

A dyno seems to be the only way to tell if the mod works ( best if done before and after), but it seems like Gretchen pulls harder from 4500 rpm+ . Low end doesn't really seem to have lost much, I have a little stuttering between 2600 rpm and 3000 rpm but only about 5 to 10 % more than before the airbox mod, and at Gretchen's best she has always had a little stutter there when slowly rolling on the throttle, but even with the mod it is hardly noticeable...Im just being picky.

[gixxerone]

What the hell Panda - HIJACKIN this Thread....Im kidding

I wouldn't do it if you have stock exhaust. From what I've read here, and from what Im noticing on my bike, is you will create much more airflow with the airbox mod. I think you would have some issues, as your busa would not be as smooth in the lower rpm band without adding an full race exhaust. With stock exhaust I think you would drop torque and possibly hp without adding a full exhaust. Infact I dont think I would consider doing the mod with just slipon's. The airbox mod generates way too much airflow for anything short of a full exhaust. Just my opinion however, you might wanna do a search and read what others have done.

Im not sure if I even like the mod yet, as I did the airbox mod, and had an issue or 2 - than I took the airbox off again, pulled out the acuator valve - plugged off the hose - cut the flapper I removed earyler to size, and epoxyed it to the bottom of the airbox covering the hole where the acuator valve use to be. Now it's running smoother....I guess lesson learned for me was don't do things half way, and read, and fully understand the mod your performing before you do it.

Link to a good airbox mod thread - it helped me out a lot

can someone help me find the link? this one does not work.search option is useless....



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