88mm between center of cylinders.
Gen 1 and gen to are interchangable. No difference.
The added stroke is corrected by a shorter crown on the piston and NOT by a longer cylinder.
There is no reason for controlling the upper 4 injectors. They are already pretty much maxed out on a stock bike ( 80 % duty cycle. OK you can go to 90% but thats stretching it ).
The lower 4 however are at around 20% at WOT and if you add 250% to it you get 70% Duty cycle. More than enough...
Its quite easy to modify the fuel pressure. Just dismantle the stock fuelpump and "crush" the regulator a little bit.
Do a search and you will find pictures.
Yes its me :)
The Motty "only" works on 1 set of injectors but its only needed to work on 1 set. When the secondaries come into play the primarys almost shut down so there are HUGE amounts of fuel they can deliver ( NOS, low psi turbo etc ).
On my B-King I first upped the fuel pressure...
I have one MOTTY AFR Tuner on my B-King 1507 and its far superior to ANY other controller on the marked. The Bazazz is a nice unit also but nowhere near as advanced as Motty AFR Tuner.
The Muzzy Big Block ( 86mm ) and the 8,5mm ( never heard of a 7,5mm ) stroker yield 1661ccm.
The stroker crank are made for TTS in England and are supplied with rods that are 2,5mm SHORTER than the OEM rods. This means that you have to use a 2mm spacer plate with the stroker crank.
If you want...
Yup. The yosh box can adjust the orginal ECU in three different throttle positions. Low, mid and high.
it can adjusr +/-10% in 5% incrediments ( IE -10,-5,0,+5,+10% ). A very "rough" way to adjust the fueling but sometimes thats all thats needed.
Its not an Air FLOW Sensor. The Haybusa doesnt have an airflow sensor. Its the Air Intake Temprature Sensor ( AITS ) that sometimes needs to be relocated because of the poor original placement ( where it can pick up engine heat ).
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