What would make bike die only after it get hot

[99'busa]

The first symptoms were FI light and dieing and wont start back up.and blowing fuel fuse. I had the shop change fuel pump and that stopped the fuel fuses blowing but now after it gets up to temp it will sometimes surge so bad its like im throttling on/off completley real bad. (only happened once) but everytime i take it out after it gets hot it want to die at lights or stop signs. The idle slowly drops till it dies. Sometimes it starts back up sometimes it wont. BUT EVERTIME after it cools off it starts up and runs perfect.

Of coarse it wont do it at the shop

 

[99'busa]

edit for above post. it wont want to die at every stop. but thats when it wants to.

if im driving down the road when it wants to die it just lags a little in pwr but wont die till i stop

 

[runeight]

Didn't someone have this problem long ago and it was the filter connection.

Let me look. It was something connected to the fuel pump I believe.

I also might be on another planet.

r8

 

[99'busa]

Didn't someone have this problem long ago and it was the filter connection.

Let me look. It was something connected to the fuel pump I believe.

I also might be on another planet.

r8

that could make sense. and could have made the first pump work too hard and pull too many amps to blow fuses. maybe???

 

[KRUZIN]

Also check the vent line..

 

[runeight]

Who was that? Something was pinched or not on correctly. It was fuel related. Took them forever to find it.

Maybe they will chime in.

r8

 

[runeight]

Was it number two (2) ?

r8

 

[runeight]

It sounds fuel related to me but I'll leave it to the experts.

I'm just a bum. Think I'll go get a hot fudge sunday before the baseball game.

r8

 

[runeight]

Did you check your wiring really good. Reading that again about the blown fuses throws up a flag.

(this is good for my post count however)

r8

 

[99'busa]

It sounds fuel related to me but I'll leave it to the experts.

I'm just a bum. Think I'll go get a hot fudge sunday before the baseball game.

r8

thanks for the thoughts John enjoy your sunday

 

[runeight]

Also check the vent line..

And the valve caps!

lease:

r8

 

[runeight]

thanks for the thoughts John enjoy your sunday

It's Tuesday.

r8

 

[99'busa]

It's Tuesday.

r8

HOT FUDGE SUNDAY better?

 

[runeight]

Oh that. Forgot. Senior moment. On my way!

Where is that all knowing Mr Bogus when you need him?

r8

 

[99'busa]

Oh that. Forgot. Senior moment. On my way!

Where is that all knowing Mr Bogus when you need him?

r8

he thinks its the fuel pump still cause its a used one. but the shop didnt think the first one was even bad. and they might be right since im still having issues.

somthing clogged makes since but would it make sense for it to always run perfect again after cooling down. or maybe its not the cooling down but the just sitting still that clears it temporarily???

someone also thought maybe the injectors goiing out???

 

[Narcissus]

Probably was me. I've had a number of simultaneous problems, both fuel and electrical.

OK, do you have a '99 with the external pump or a '01+ internal pump?

If it's external, check the lines that they aren't getting kinked. When it gets hot, the lines will tend to collapse.

If it's internal, make sure the pressure regulator is secure (the round thing kept on by the white clip looking thing). Check your line for kinks if it isn't the OEM fuel line.


Check your electrical. The stator/rectifier connection in the tail (left side) tends to melt the ground and cause a bad connection. Might want to cut the connector and wire directly.

Check the ground connection that runs directly from the battery. A big one goes to the starter and a little one goes to the wire harness with a quick connect a few inches from the battery terminal. It's the little one that may be melted and not making connection.

Check your voltage across the battery terminals at 5K RPMS. Should be 13.5-15V with headlights ON. If it's draining and below that, check for bad grounds and check your stator connections.


While you're at it, you might as well check the throttle position sensor. IIRC, it's 1500 RPMS and short the dealer connector that's in the tail somewhere. It'll show on the dash if it's in range.


About all I can think of to check right now. PM me later if you need some more help. Sounds like you have a kinked line, but the electrical can also cause intermittent problems that show with heat.

 

[99'busa]

Probably was me. I've had a number of simultaneous problems, both fuel and electrical.

OK, do you have a '99 with the external pump or a '01+ internal pump?

If it's external, check the lines that they aren't getting kinked. When it gets hot, the lines will tend to collapse.

If it's internal, make sure the pressure regulator is secure (the round thing kept on by the white clip looking thing). Check your line for kinks if it isn't the OEM fuel line.


Check your electrical. The stator/rectifier connection in the tail (left side) tends to melt the ground and cause a bad connection. Might want to cut the connector and wire directly.

Check the ground connection that runs directly from the battery. A big one goes to the starter and a little one goes to the wire harness with a quick connect a few inches from the battery terminal. It's the little one that may be melted and not making connection.

Check your voltage across the battery terminals at 5K RPMS. Should be 13.5-15V with headlights ON. If it's draining and below that, check for bad grounds and check your stator connections.


While you're at it, you might as well check the throttle position sensor. IIRC, it's 1500 RPMS and short the dealer connector that's in the tail somewhere. It'll show on the dash if it's in range.


About all I can think of to check right now. PM me later if you need some more help. Sounds like you have a kinked line, but the electrical can also cause intermittent problems that show with heat.

THANK YOU THANK YOU. Yes it's external pump. the collapsing line sounds like a good start. will also have them chk the other issues.

 

[GIXERHP]

Probably was me. I've had a number of simultaneous problems, both fuel and electrical.

OK, do you have a '99 with the external pump or a '01+ internal pump?

If it's external, check the lines that they aren't getting kinked. When it gets hot, the lines will tend to collapse.

If it's internal, make sure the pressure regulator is secure (the round thing kept on by the white clip looking thing). Check your line for kinks if it isn't the OEM fuel line.


Check your electrical. The stator/rectifier connection in the tail (left side) tends to melt the ground and cause a bad connection. Might want to cut the connector and wire directly.

Check the ground connection that runs directly from the battery. A big one goes to the starter and a little one goes to the wire harness with a quick connect a few inches from the battery terminal. It's the little one that may be melted and not making connection.

Check your voltage across the battery terminals at 5K RPMS. Should be 13.5-15V with headlights ON. If it's draining and below that, check for bad grounds and check your stator connections.


While you're at it, you might as well check the throttle position sensor. IIRC, it's 1500 RPMS and short the dealer connector that's in the tail somewhere. It'll show on the dash if it's in range.


About all I can think of to check right now. PM me later if you need some more help. Sounds like you have a kinked line, but the electrical can also cause intermittent problems that show with heat.

+ 1 on checking the lines!
If the new pump hasn't blown a fuse, i think its vent related!
Try opening you tanks and see if the problem is still there!
If the problem is still there, it's not the vent, and it could the filter in the pump at that point!

 

[99'busa]

+ 1 on checking the lines!
If the new pump hasn't blown a fuse, i think its vent related!
Try opening you tanks and see if the problem is still there!
If the problem is still there, it's not the vent, and it could the filter in the pump at that point!

thanks John

 

[Narcissus]

If you have the original fuel lines, those are pretty weak and prone to collapse.

High pressure line is better, but since it isn't formed like OEM you have the problem of it kinking when the tank is down. You'll probably notice this most when it's hot and you go over bumps. That's when it's most likely to cut out. When I had the external with the K&N fuel filter, I ended up running long line from the pump to the right, around the frame and back to the fuel rail and tank.

It worked great till I got hit and ended up replacing the tank with a 2001 when I repainted it.