what all to get done for a motor build?

[sbarna992]

Greetings!

I'm doing a RCC stage 1 install on my gen-2. I have my motor out for a transmission issue, so I figured now might be a good time to build the motor a bit. My power goals are 250-280 hp range (6-8 psi boost). I am planning cylinder head studs, valve springs and turbo pistons. Should I be looking into stainless steel valves as well or is what I have planned enough for my power/boost goals? Any other mods? And forgive me if this is a dumb question but when valves are mentioned are they talking about intake valves, exhaust valves or both?

thanks!

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Greetings!

I'm doing a RCC stage 1 install on my gen-2. I have my motor out for a transmission issue, so I figured now might be a good time to build the motor a bit. My power goals are 250-280 hp range (6-8 psi boost). I am planning cylinder head studs, valve springs and turbo pistons. Should I be looking into stainless steel valves as well or is what I have planned enough for my power/boost goals? Any other mods? And forgive me if this is a dumb question but when valves are mentioned are they talking about intake valves, exhaust valves or both?

thanks!

Hi. I am doing a very high HP turbo bike. I would go with ARP studs head and crank and the one around the output shaft. Who is doing the trans? go with Robinson. Get stainless steel intake valves and Inconel exhaust valves. I would also get a Gen 1 block. I went with custom JJE 10 to 1 pistons.. I would also go with Carrillo rods. I had them make a custom set for 1000 HP and 13500 RPM. The stronger the motor the better you will be. If you can afford it I would get a Marine crankshaft.

 

[ItsDooomz]

A 280 hp I'd put rings, valve springs, studs and send it. Turbo pistons at that boost level will hurt performance and the reality is if you lose an injector or miss the tune up you're going to burn a turbo piston just as quick as you're going to burn an OEM piston. I know guys that run 15 lb of boost on stock rods and stock pistons for a whole season beating on them every week at the drag strip.

You'll hear from all these wanna be internet racers how you'll need rods and pistons and blah blah blah. Stock pistons and rods are fine at that power level and if you burn one up they're free or almost free.

 

[shade]

So while doomz is right if you think youll ever want to turn the power up...Most people that go turbo always end up turning the boost up.
While its out you might as well finish the motor off
Rods, valves is debated and the stock valves seem to hold up from @Boosted Cycle Perf testing. I like safety and would go SS but thats me.
Cometic head gasket

 

[Mathewrussell52]

I did head studs. Tuner though it was risky not to do valve springs so he would not rev past 10,500. I also went with e85.

 

[busakiller]

@sbarna992 you will get lots of different answers to your question. For the horsepower your wanting to make you will have to ask yourself what fuel do you want to run and what you plan on doing with the bike? You plan on street riding the bike and run pump gas? Then that will require motor work. But if you wanted to run pump gas and make 240 whp you will be fine on stock motor….. another question is who’s tuning the bike? I had someone local tune my bike and it made power but ran like poop. Sent it to someone else for a tune and turned into a motor build and it’s been 2+ years now since Its been in the shop. Lots of questions to ask yourself. Find a person that can tune the bike, what your realistic goals are with the bike. Going turbo can snowball fast into something you might have the money or time to deal with. That’s why a lot of people do all motor builds. Easier to tune and still make good power. With turbo you have lag and if you race a all motor bike you will have a tough time catching that bike…