Took A Big Chance At The High School Dance

JINKSTER

I Love my Wife!
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Got my new-to-me '03 busa with 1,600 on the odo and immediately changed the oil and filter using an oem suzi filter and Castrol GTX 10W/40 and wanted to stick with dino oil till 4K miles and did...and today (w/ 3995 miles on the odo) I changed my oil and filter again...again using suzi oem filter but figured my beast is ready to go full synthetic...last busa bash I heard some whisperings of a few who went straight 0 weight...as in "straight zero weight"...well...I ain't that brave but I did just finish dumping 4qts of Mobil 1 0W/40 in my beast (manual says 3.5qts but this is the 2nd oil change where my beast swallowed all 4qts to make it to the full line at dead level)....and as I suspected from recent info gleened?...what a difference/reduction in "start-up chatter"..as in..."GREATLY REDUCED"...and reeeeeal quiet like....as the zero weight flows to the top so quickly it seems like it's already there before the first cylinder goes pop! LOL!!!

It DOESN'T state "Energy Conserving" in the API symbol so I feel it more than likely "Clutch Safe" just as the old defunct mobil 1 15/50 full synth red cap I used religously in both my ZRX and FZ1 sans any clutch issues...but so far?...it seems my beast is loving this new 0W/40 Mobil 1 Full Synth and...time will tell.  
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L8R, Bill.
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My baby is due for her service in 250 miles. Keep us posted on any ill effects you notice.
 
It wasn't me you were fooling, cause I knew what you were doing when you said you were gonna change your oil that way......she told me to -
J/K!
 
Made the same change, but a little earlier than you. Feels like she is running much better.
 
Hey Jinkster, what color is the cap? I was thinking about changing over before the Busa Bash, is it the extended life ( 15000 ) miles oil or what, sorry such a dumb Question, I probally should know but I just want to make sure I put the right oil im my baby.
 
Jinks .. Thanks again for your top class suspension walkthrough . Used your info a long time ago but some new boys have been lookin' for the info and it seems to be ''gone'' .
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Made the same change, but a little earlier than you.  Feels like she is running much better.
+1 and ditto.
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I had a chance to get out and do a little riding today and my initial observations are as follows...

1. Engine Chatter: is greatly reduced at all levels of operation most noticably during "cold start-ups".

2. Shift Quality: is slightly improved. The same toe pressure exists yet she exchanges gears with a cleaner, more defined feel.

3. Other Observations: the engine does seem to exhibit a slight yet noticably crisper response to throttle inputs and feels as though she's running both smoother and a tad more effortlessly.

So far it seems my Busa is extremely pleased with this oil Gents and so am I. L8R, Bill.
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Hey Jinkster,  what color is the cap? I was thinking about changing over before the Busa Bash, is it the extended life ( 15000 ) miles oil or what, sorry such a dumb Question, I probally should know but I just want to make sure I put the right oil im my baby.
No...it's not the "Extended Life"....it's the "Mobil 1 Full Synthetic"....0W-40...Silver Bottle/Silver Cap/Black Label...and about $5.24 per qt.
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Jinks .. Thanks again for your top class suspension walkthrough . Used your info a long time ago but some new boys have been lookin' for the info and it seems to be  ''gone'' .  
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It appears it's been moved to the "Engine & Performance" forum...here's the link....



L8R, Bill.
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Have used Mobil 1 synth in my bikes before....works great. The non-energy conserving is the way to go too! Good job!
 
Been running Mobil 1 non EC for over 20k miles. No problems.
Bronc...my curiosity is not regarding Mobil 1 non-ec synthetic...Like I said...I've ran that stuff in my ZRX and FZ1 starting back 5 years ago..my curiosity is in regards to the "0W-40"...as this is zero weight oil...and not the minimum factory recomended 10W.

The low-down I got on using the 0W is this...

Most engine damage happens at start-up...where and when the oil from the engines top-end/valve-train has drained away via gravity...hence that slight top-end chatter at cold start-up as the oil pump works to replenish the somewhat oil starved top-end during the first few seconds of cold start-up...and it's rumored that...

a. The thinner, free'er flowing 0W-40 flows through the tighter oil passages easier thereby making it's way to the critcal areas faster at cold start-up and...

b. in both the pressurized and non-pressurized areas the 0W-40 oils lighter weight permits it to more freely recirculate itself into and through the tighter oil gaps more efficiently than does a heavier weight oil and it's higher migratory characteristics permit it to flow and "Get Too" areas a heavier weight oil may not pass through so easily.

c. and that the free'er flowing lighter weight 0W oil makes things easier on your oil pump and in turns reduces the oil pumps drag/load on your engine.

and so far it all makes sense and seems true to me...and hopefully the superior and increased lubricity of full synth will more than make up for the 0W oils lighter weight...that's the part I'm left wondering about but...so far all seems well with the 0W-40 full sytnth oil.

L8R, Bill.
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