Just the factory pan for now. I might get a low profile one later on in the spring or summer.
Time To Jump In With My Turbo Build Thread
- Thread starter ColdBusa
- Start date
Just the factory pan for now. I might get a low profile one later on in the spring or summer.
Hey guys,
Did some more work on the busa today. I ended up putting most of all of the auxiliaries on. The generator was installed, as well as the starter clutch and all parts along with it. Put in the cam chain pulley, cam chain tensioners, and the big and fun part the pistons and jugs. I haven't put the clutch on yet as I have to use a friends vice for the brock's clutch mod that I have. Had one incident, as I wasn't using a ring compressor to put the pistons in, I ended up gouging my thumb pretty bad, so there is now some blood in my motor!!! The other issue I had was everything went in looking good on piston number 2 and 3 when I started to slide the jugs down. Then I saw one of the rails for the oil ring was sliding down when I was pushing the jugs down on piston #2.
I brought the jugs up again and pulled the rail and it was slightly warped. I think I caught it when I cut myself. However, I was able to press it until it was flat and able to put back in place, so it went in no problem. The other pistons went in no problem.
However, here's the good part and why I know you are here..lol
![DSC_0266[1].jpg](https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/attachments/dsc_0266-1-jpg.272479/ "DSC_0266[1].jpg")
![DSC_0267[1].jpg](https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/attachments/dsc_0267-1-jpg.272480/ "DSC_0267[1].jpg")
Did some more work on the busa today. I ended up putting most of all of the auxiliaries on. The generator was installed, as well as the starter clutch and all parts along with it. Put in the cam chain pulley, cam chain tensioners, and the big and fun part the pistons and jugs. I haven't put the clutch on yet as I have to use a friends vice for the brock's clutch mod that I have. Had one incident, as I wasn't using a ring compressor to put the pistons in, I ended up gouging my thumb pretty bad, so there is now some blood in my motor!!! The other issue I had was everything went in looking good on piston number 2 and 3 when I started to slide the jugs down. Then I saw one of the rails for the oil ring was sliding down when I was pushing the jugs down on piston #2.
I brought the jugs up again and pulled the rail and it was slightly warped. I think I caught it when I cut myself. However, I was able to press it until it was flat and able to put back in place, so it went in no problem. The other pistons went in no problem.
However, here's the good part and why I know you are here..lol
The last bit of it. I'm just waiting for my spring compressor, manual cam chain adjuster, and some other odds and ends, and I will be able to finally get this thing back in the bike! I will definitely post a vid of the first startup. However, I will continue on with all of the activities that I am up to, including the extra wiring that I am up to, as well as the turbo progress!
![DSC_0270[1].jpg](https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/attachments/dsc_0270-1-jpg.272483/ "DSC_0270[1].jpg")
DRAGRAC€R
Registered
nice progress 
Truckin right along.
Don't sweat the ring misshap, it happens to the best of us. Keep up the good work!
Don't sweat the ring misshap, it happens to the best of us. Keep up the good work!
Well, I got a bit more done on the motor today. I ended up putting in all the kibblewhite stainless steel valves in, as well as the heavy duty valve springs (very cool engineering in those valves btw). I didn't take any photos as it doesn't even look like I did anything..lol.
One thing I would like to comment on, is in the manual for the K8 busa, it states to ensure that the printed number should face up, or towards the tappet, however there was 3 shims that were facing the wrong way. I don't think it's a big deal as the number isn't a deep groove, so I don't know if it really would have an effect on the valve stem tip. However, just making that comment on consistency of installation from factory. Not everything is perfect from factory.
It didn't take long to lap the valves as the seats are only 1 year old, and putting new valves in a clean head wasn't that big of a deal, so it was quick and easy. Made sure I cleaned up everything really good, and everything went back together nicely.
Now next is to spray the head gasket, put the head on and get the valve clearances completed. Hopefully I don't have to change any of the shims as I'm hoping to go for a start on the bike in 2 to 3 weeks and would have to order some in. It's a ways away from start, but I only work on this on the weekends as I have a 4 yr old that's hilarious and I wanna make sure I'm spending time with my wife as well..lol
One thing I would like to comment on, is in the manual for the K8 busa, it states to ensure that the printed number should face up, or towards the tappet, however there was 3 shims that were facing the wrong way. I don't think it's a big deal as the number isn't a deep groove, so I don't know if it really would have an effect on the valve stem tip. However, just making that comment on consistency of installation from factory. Not everything is perfect from factory.
It didn't take long to lap the valves as the seats are only 1 year old, and putting new valves in a clean head wasn't that big of a deal, so it was quick and easy. Made sure I cleaned up everything really good, and everything went back together nicely.
Now next is to spray the head gasket, put the head on and get the valve clearances completed. Hopefully I don't have to change any of the shims as I'm hoping to go for a start on the bike in 2 to 3 weeks and would have to order some in. It's a ways away from start, but I only work on this on the weekends as I have a 4 yr old that's hilarious and I wanna make sure I'm spending time with my wife as well..lol
That is quite a bit of work and money in parts...all will be forgotten when you fire it up and take it for a spin. Did you consider (sorry if I missed it) eliminating the crank balancer? Is that a step that is not necessarily worth the expense of getting the rotating assembly balanced?
I didn't do it at this time. However, when I make it pro street I have to get the transmission done, so at that time I'll evaluate it then. Can someone else chime in on this? What the cost would be and what extras would have to be done?
I know that removing it removed mass and rotating parts, but is the balancing of the assembly I'm unsure of.
I know that removing it removed mass and rotating parts, but is the balancing of the assembly I'm unsure of.
Got a bunch more work done on the Busa. I ended up getting the head on, clearances checked, engine mounted, turbo mounted, rad installed, wiring completed, new slave support installed, side stand installed, dump installed. Clearances on the intake were a little on the loose side by .5ml, but the exhaust were good. Can't wait to fire this thing up, but I have to leave town on Monday for the week. When I get back, I will be installing the fuel pump in place and lining it out to the new rail, installing the charge tube and plenum, with hoses routed to the plenum. I will also toss on the tank, prime the oil system and the water system, and then finally the clutch. If I can manage to get all this done on the weekend I will have it started.
The Gen 1 manual does show his bolt!
bigrod1330
Registered
Thanks guys. The intake cam measurements have been bugging me, and since I'm away from home for work, I've been thinking about the measurements and I'm gonna pull the cover off since I don't have the plenum on, re-measure and order some shims. I just wanna make sure things are perfect and within spec, or it'll bug me and make me worry...lol. Also, I don't want to have any noisy valves when running. I'll post some pics of the process and let you guys know the outcome of the fix. So this may delay things a bit, but it's -25oC here, so really there is no rush...lol
Hey everyone. Well, the day has come where I fired up the bike. So here's a rundown again of what was put in the bike:
Wossner Rods
9.5:1 Wossner Pistons
New connecting rod bearings
Ape studs
Heavy duty springs
Kibblewhite stainless steel valves
Brocks clutch mod
new cometic head and base gasket
manual cam chain tensioner (ape)
RCC stage 1 turbo kit, with .63 exhaust housing on the turbine, upgraded fuel rail, 62lb injectors, BOV.
Wego III for A/F and data logging
Tuning with ECU editor.
So here's the thing. I've never done this before, ripping apart a motor and putting it back together. So I've learned a tonne. Things that I've learned and things that a guy needs to have to build a motor up and put it together. I ended up spending more than I thought I was going to because I would find that I would need a specific tool that I didn't have, or would forget to get something (gaskets). So for anyone doing a motor tear down and assembly for the first time, here's my recommendation to you.... Buy a complete gasket kit, order up the clutch holding tool, spring puller, get yourself a valve lapping tool, and either find a good shop to hone the cylinders for you if needed, or if you are brave enough to do it, order the tools yourself. On top of that, remember to get some gasket maker, or Suzuki bond, for putting the cases together.
Because of this and all the research that I had to do, it did take longer, however utilizing the Suzuki shop manual and a bit of confidence, I believe anyone can do this. Now, don't get me wrong, I didn't get into adjustable cam gears yet as I won't be able to use all the power this year, so I didn't get into degreeing the cams, and there's other things that builders will do different as well, ring gaps, valve clearance, different cams, etc.
So here's the finished product, minus putting the fairings back on.
Plus the video I was promising. Sorry I didn't know how to focus the Nikon at the dash or the fuel pressure guage (figured it out afterwords). Also, noticed it took a couple tries to start. Not too sure if it's because the motor was cold and I have dropped the compression from 12.5:1 to 9.5:1. Also, it might be that it is extremely rich right now. I can smell the fuel after startup, so it might be flooding a bit. My Wego isn't finished being wired up yet. Also, it is burning a bit of oil, but it might be because I primed the oil system with the turbine hooked up, or hopefully it's not because the rings are passing too much, which I hope will seal. It doesn't smoke after a couple minutes of running and not even up to full temperature.
Turbo Start - YouTube[/url]
Wossner Rods
9.5:1 Wossner Pistons
New connecting rod bearings
Ape studs
Heavy duty springs
Kibblewhite stainless steel valves
Brocks clutch mod
new cometic head and base gasket
manual cam chain tensioner (ape)
RCC stage 1 turbo kit, with .63 exhaust housing on the turbine, upgraded fuel rail, 62lb injectors, BOV.
Wego III for A/F and data logging
Tuning with ECU editor.
So here's the thing. I've never done this before, ripping apart a motor and putting it back together. So I've learned a tonne. Things that I've learned and things that a guy needs to have to build a motor up and put it together. I ended up spending more than I thought I was going to because I would find that I would need a specific tool that I didn't have, or would forget to get something (gaskets). So for anyone doing a motor tear down and assembly for the first time, here's my recommendation to you.... Buy a complete gasket kit, order up the clutch holding tool, spring puller, get yourself a valve lapping tool, and either find a good shop to hone the cylinders for you if needed, or if you are brave enough to do it, order the tools yourself. On top of that, remember to get some gasket maker, or Suzuki bond, for putting the cases together.
Because of this and all the research that I had to do, it did take longer, however utilizing the Suzuki shop manual and a bit of confidence, I believe anyone can do this. Now, don't get me wrong, I didn't get into adjustable cam gears yet as I won't be able to use all the power this year, so I didn't get into degreeing the cams, and there's other things that builders will do different as well, ring gaps, valve clearance, different cams, etc.
So here's the finished product, minus putting the fairings back on.
Plus the video I was promising. Sorry I didn't know how to focus the Nikon at the dash or the fuel pressure guage (figured it out afterwords). Also, noticed it took a couple tries to start. Not too sure if it's because the motor was cold and I have dropped the compression from 12.5:1 to 9.5:1. Also, it might be that it is extremely rich right now. I can smell the fuel after startup, so it might be flooding a bit. My Wego isn't finished being wired up yet. Also, it is burning a bit of oil, but it might be because I primed the oil system with the turbine hooked up, or hopefully it's not because the rings are passing too much, which I hope will seal. It doesn't smoke after a couple minutes of running and not even up to full temperature.
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