Thanks to Tuff for something he mentioned a long time ago

[IG.]

My brake lever engages the brakes only after traveling half way to the handlebar. Here is why it happens - as the lever is released the rubber seals pull the pistons slightly back creating a small gap between the pads and the rotor. So, the next time I squeeze the lever, the pistons need to get close to the rotor first, and only then will apply the pressure. I pulled the pads, cleaned the pistons, tried to pre-squeeze them as much as possible before putting the pads back. Still too much free play.

Then I remembered Tuff's pretty practical advice to squeeze the lever and put a zip tie on it for a period of time. I was sceptical at first, but decided to try and put a clamp on the handlebar/lever after squeezing the lever good. Ate dinner. A couple of hours later, took the clamp out, and viola - the pressure at the lever starts right at the beginning of the squeeze.

Thanks Tuff!

 

[BusaWhipped]

Yep. I rubber-band the brake lever to the grips for at least 2 hours after doing any work to the brakes then re-bleed them.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

Would you brake improve if you did this but had no perceived problem before?

 

[BusaWhipped]

Would you brake improve if you did this but had no perceived problem before?

Just because you don't perceive it doesn't mean it isn't there. All it costs is a little time and a zip tie or a few rubber bands. I prefer rubber bands because they will keep pressure on the lever even if there is some trapped air in the system. Let us know your results.

 

[skydivr]

Regardless, you still need to FULLY BLEED.

 

[Gpmo]

This is a great tip for anyone. I would bleed then do this and then re bleed. Used a small bungie cord myself.

 

[dadofthree]

Ba gave me this tip years ago because I kept loosing my front brakes. Turned out I had a warped rotor, but I've never forgotten the tip. I agree with the rubber bands Dennis.

 

[IG.]

No need to re-bleed if there is no air in the system. When the pistons touch the rotors the lever becomes as hard as..... well, let me keep the language clean. Prior to the procedure at the heart of this thread the lever had to travel half way. Now it gets hard right away.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

I'm gonna check and see. Can't hurt to strap a few rubber bands on and see can it?

 

[skydivr]

No need to re-bleed if there is no air in the system. When the pistons touch the rotors the lever becomes as hard as..... well, let me keep the language clean. Prior to the procedure at the heart of this thread the lever had to travel half way. Now it gets hard right away.

I'm gonna check and see. Can't hurt to strap a few rubber bands on and see can it?

I could have so much fun with these posts (If it wasn't the .org )

Glad your problem is corrected

 

[karnage]

he said gets hard right away

 

[Tufbusa]

Another little tip.

Zip tie your brake lever when you are hauling your bike. With the brake lever compressed it allows air that may be trapped in cracks and crannies to escape to the bleeder valve. I zip tie mine when I travel to the track, not every time as I make that journey as much as three times a week on occasion but every couple weeks I'll do the zip tie thing then crack the bleeders to release any air.

This will KEEP it HARD when it's needed most!

@ Change your brake fluid every other year. If you do lots of track days change it every season!

AND don't buy cheap brake fluid at your local walmart!

 

[MO-BUSA]

Another little tip.

Zip tie your brake lever when you are hauling your bike. With the brake lever compressed it allows air that may be trapped in cracks and crannies to escape to the bleeder valve. I zip tie mine when I travel to the track, not every time as I make that journey as much as three times a week on occasion but every couple weeks I'll do the zip tie thing then crack the bleeders to release any air.

This will KEEP it HARD when it's needed most!

@ Change your brake fluid every other year. If you do lots of track days change it every season!

AND don't buy cheap brake fluid at your local walmart!

so the zip tie is like Viagra for the brakes.....

seriously though, thanks for all the good tips guys

 

[IG.]

Thanks again Tuff, and I think a few of us had a few laughs and some impure thoughts - not a bad thing.

 

[AJAY]

I have never needed to do anything of the sort, but if it helps somebody, then maybe it's good.

One comment about shipping with a ZIP TIE on the brakes. Recommend that as a BIG NO-NO. Why? You will pressurize the system to the amount you tie the brake lever back. Unfortunately, you will leave no room for expansion of the brake fluid with change in temperature. Imagine putting your bike in a truck that then sits in a hot truck. As the brake fluid is heated, it expands. If the brake lever is not held with a tie wrap, the fluid expands and moves the brake pistons a little bit - no damage. Tie the brake lever good and tight to bind the brakes and now the fluid has nowhere to go when it expands - result, blown brake seal somewhere. I have no experience with this happening, but I know that some airplanes (like mine) actually have a lock on the hydraulic system to temporarily park the aircraft. Nobody uses it for long-term parking for exactly this reason.

Final suggestion for when you bleed your brakes: After the bike has sat overnight, any air you didn't get out of the system has very likely floated up to the top of the lines to the master cylinder and has collected into a larger bubble. Remove the top of the reservoir and very lightly tap your brake lever. There is a small hole (port) in the cylinder to let fluid into the pressurized part of the hydraulic system. As the piston uncovers this hole, the air that collected in the top of the system can escape. If you pull hard on the brake lever, you will just compress that air into small bubbles and pump them back down into the hydraulic system. If you tap very lightly, you uncover that port and let the air bubbles escape. I do this when bleeding brakes initially, but occasionally find more air comes out if you try it an hour or two later after the bike has sat. Try it!

 

[IG.]

Interesting point. It seems a rubber band would be a better choice because it will allow the lever to move back if the pressure becomes excessive due to heat expansion. Never tried the bubble thingy - will keep this in mind.

 

[AJAY]

Interesting point. It seems a rubber band would be a better choice because it will allow the lever to move back if the pressure becomes excessive due to heat expansion. Never tried the bubble thingy - will keep this in mind.

I think you'd be ok with a strong rubber band. I cut a piece of old bicycle inner tube to hold the hydraulic brakes on my mountain bike. It doesn't take much pressure on the lever to put enough pressure on the brake pads to lock the wheel. I was just concerned you could put too much pressure with a nylon zip tie.

 

[majestic12]

I will have to give this a try. I have always thought my front breaks felt a little spongy. With nothing to compare it to I don't really know.

I always thought the spongy feeling came from the brake line expanding under the pressure. I thought I would change to steel braided when I change my fluid.

tapatalk - on my HTC ERIS rooted with cyanogen mod 7

 

[AJAY]

I will have to give this a try. I have always thought my front breaks felt a little spongy. With nothing to compare it to I don't really know.

I always thought the spongy feeling came from the brake line expanding under the pressure. I thought I would change to steel braided when I change my fluid.

tapatalk - on my HTC ERIS rooted with cyanogen mod 7

Recommend first bleeding your brakes well. I didn't notice all that much improvement in braking firmness or feel with the SS brake lines compared to stock for street riding. I'm sure it would be more apparent under aggressive track use.