Stealership nightmare ii

I don't know, but looking at the pic closely and re-reading their email - it looks to me like they did both methods of connection. It looks like they installed a clip and then pressed the pins. To me it looks like the pins are, in fact, slightly mushroomed right at the surface of the clip.

Seems like overkill to me, but I doubt that the clip or the master link will be coming off anytime soon.

Easiest way to tell would be to remove the clip (it should pop off with minimal force using a flat screwdriver) and try to pull out the master link. If you cannot get the master link out, you are good to go. In that case, I would replace the clip to take up any slack in the side to side motion of the master link.

just my $0.02
 
Gimmie a break on the worries about clip style links, the clip will work great and is plenty, if better, than the rivet style. I've used the clip style for years and have not ever had a problem. Just make sure that the masterclip is facing the right way and is installed properly. Like anything, they need to be check at service intervals. The only potential problem i've found is after a while of using the clipstyle link, the masterclip will expand or not fit as tight after a few dozen times of being taken off. You can feel if the clip is going bad as it'll pop into place alittle too easily.

Either way, it's comes down to metal fatigue on both sides. Rivet-stretched expanded metal or a stretched loose clip after many services.



<!--EDIT|GMbusa
Reason for Edit: None given...|1156365651 -->
 
Gimmie a break on the worries about clip style links, the clip will work great and is plenty, if better, than the rivet style. I've used the clip style for years and have not ever had a problem. Just make sure that the masterclip is facing the right way and is installed properly.
So the Industry and EVERYTHING I've ever heard regarding Master links is wrong?
rock.gif


Whatever dude. I think I'll stick with the OEM's and Manufacterers on this.
 
A riveted link done improperly is WAY more dangerous. Rivet style is alot cheaper from a business standpoint.

I'm not saying one masterlink is better than the other.
Since the general public only remembers the negative side about stuff, i think that's how these clip masterlinks developed a bad rap. Maybe early clip links were made inferior and they broke? Maybe someone installed a clip incorrectly and didn't want to take the blame? Who knows, but i use quality chains and run them on my dirtbikes and street bikes. Everything that i've heard about masterlinks is hearsay from people. I want to put it out there that i use the clip style whenever i can and have had no problems. Ever.

Wanna prove my point about hearsay leading to bad reps? Take Nitrous for instance. Go ask someone in general about installing Nitrous oxide in a car and they will tell you it'll explode you and the car the first time you hit it. I know it won't, But, if improperly installed or in the hands of the inexperienced it can be a disaster to the motor and you will NEVER hear someone own up to doing something wrong. Instead they will blame the product. I've heard a ton of BS about Turbo's too.



<!--EDIT|GMbusa
Reason for Edit: None given...|1156366891 -->
 
It looks like they installed a clip and then pressed the pins. To me it looks like the pins are, in fact, slightly mushroomed right at the surface of the clip[/QUOTE]
Upon further review....I concur.
 
There not mushroomed. That's the head that holds the clip. My clip style looks the same.
 
i'm no mechanic by any means, but i do know for sure that a suzuki oem chain is required to use a riveted master. i personally would stick w/ what the service manual suggests and avoid the clip-on. take the bike back to the dealer and show those idiots what they installed and get it corrected! good luck
 
There not mushroomed. That's the head that holds the clip. My clip style looks the same.
I bow to your expertise, I'm just reading the dealer's email and looking at the pic and that's what it looks like to me.

If you are correct, and I'm not saying you aren't, he ought to be able to take it right off and slide out the master link - and then proceed as he sees fit.
 
By all means, if you don't like the clip style swap it for the OEM one.

It really comes down to peace of mind.
 
My good friend put a clip type master link chain on his 600RR. In less than 2000 miles, the clip was missing eventhough it was installed in the right direction.
Another point is that all dirtbikes and chain drive quads have clip type links. Their chains are subjected to much more abuse that would possibly knock the clip off.
Whichever you believe, I would never put a clip style link on a 1300cc motorcycle. I've installed tons of chains on my dirtbikes with clips and never had a worry, but on my busa, no thanks.
 
A riveted link done improperly is WAY more dangerous. Rivet style is alot cheaper from a business standpoint.

I'm not saying one masterlink is better than the other.
Since the general public only remembers the negative side about stuff, i think that's how these clip masterlinks developed a bad rap. Maybe early clip links were made inferior and they broke? Maybe someone installed a clip incorrectly and didn't want to take the blame? Who knows, but i use quality chains and run them on my dirtbikes and street bikes. Everything that i've heard about masterlinks is hearsay from people. I want to put it out there that i use the clip style whenever i can and have had no problems. Ever.

Wanna prove my point about hearsay leading to bad reps? Take Nitrous for instance. Go ask someone in general about installing Nitrous oxide in a car and they will tell you it'll explode you and the car the first time you hit it. I know it won't, But, if improperly installed or in the hands of the inexperienced it can be a disaster to the motor and you will NEVER hear someone own up to doing something wrong. Instead they will blame the product. I've heard a ton of BS about Turbo's too.
It's not Hearsay man, it's fact real world honest to goodness fact.

The manufacterers know this, the racing community knows this and EVERY mechanic I've spoken to knows this. Rivet style links only on high horsepower machines.
 
I'm going to run a clip link, you guys run your rivets.
The End.



<!--EDIT|GMbusa
Reason for Edit: None given...|1156385730 -->
 
That really sucks, been through some BS myself with a bike shop, I would think you could report them to Suzuki, don't know if it will do much good but I am sure Suzuki will call them
 
Just buy a $4 rivet link and install it yourself. Alot of time wasted and drama over nothing.



<!--EDIT|GMbusa
Reason for Edit: None given...|1156385762 -->
 
If you want you can run Safety wire (and/or a dab of silicone) around the outer link of the masterlink and the clip to stop the clip from "flying off". Seen it done a hundred times! Now that thats out of the way. People have been running link type chains forever! I honestly believe that rivet type chains came about as a tool of the Anti-litigation conscious manufacturers. If it doesn't have a part that can come off then we cant get sued! The strength of one VS the other hasn't been resoundingly proven to me personally. I haven't seen any proof presented here other than My manual says this or my mechanic said that. I've personally run RK chains for tens of thousands of miles with clip type links and the aforementioned Safety wire. My bike still has the stock chain and rivet type master link. Thats fine too!

End of the day you were wronged by the dealer. Make em fix it! But I would not let the clip type master link stop you from riding!
 
Dayyuuum Dennis, sorry to hear bout the bad service you've beem getting from you local dealer.

If I was you I would diffinetly try finding the time to do your own shid or another mechanic.

You know I got your back if you need help, just give me a jingle and I'll walk you through it.
I personally assisted Bian (BBBUSA)with his first chain removal two months ago when he wanted to extend his rear, he couldn't believe how easy it was.  It will cost you under $70 in tools.

$49 Chain breaker set and a dremel tool to cut off the rivet head.
67.jpg



$12 Rivet tool
DSC02734.jpg


Micrometer, to check for proper flaring on the rivet head

DSC02729.jpg



Believe it or not you can use a table top grinding wheel. This was the technique Brian and I used since he went cheap and bought a no name one speed dremel and cutoff wheels.  The table top grinding wheel actually worked way better and fast than the dremel.  I will be using my grinding wheel on my next chain removal.  
super.gif
 
super.gif




BBBUSA.jpg


super.gif
 
Back
Top