Starting Issue

SnapAttack

Donating Member
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Been through the search and couldn't find a place to start.

2003 / 5400 miles

I turn the key on and everything lights up fine, runs through it's self diagnostic check, I hit the start button and nothing. I hit it again and she may turn over. I may have to hit it a few times. Sometimes I have to turn the key on and off to get her to fire. Longest interval from key on to finally kicking over is a 1 1/2 minutes. First impression is a loose connection? Starter switch going bad?

Suppose to hit the canyons tomorrow but don't want to get stranded.
 
Check the water level in your battery
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Top it off with distilled water, clean and tighten the cables, and put it on the charger
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Hit the canyons dog just leave it parked up hill for that second gear push start.
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The 2003 starters had issues. You may have to replace it.

--Wag--
 
(Wag @ Sep. 08 2007,13:11) The 2003 starters had issues. You may have to replace it.

--Wag--
If it's not a known starter issue, it sounds like the battery is weak and/or corroded/loose cables. A few checks with the battery should tell you more...
 
(BA BUSA @ Sep. 08 2007,08:54) Top it off with distilled water, clean and tighten the cables, and put it on the charger  
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Battery was dry. Good call. Put it on the tender. Started it today with same symptoms.

I usualy turn it on/off with the kill switch so i decided to just try the key a few times. Fired up every time. When I went back to the switch, symptoms returned. I had to leave so was unable to confidently say it is the switch but if it appears it is.... how involved is replacing the kill switch or is changing the entire assembly recommended?

Thanks.
 
After charging and waiting 30 minutes a good battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.
 
(BA BUSA @ Sep. 10 2007,19:41) Do you have access to a digital volt meter
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Snap-on tool man bro
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Just cause I sell em don't mean I like to use em
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Getting my DMM back from the neighbor tomorrow.
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(BA BUSA @ Sep. 10 2007,19:43) After charging and waiting 30 minutes a good battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.
Wouldn't a bad battery display syptoms whether the kill switch or the key was used
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(SnapAttack @ Sep. 10 2007,20:01)
(BA BUSA @ Sep. 10 2007,19:43) After charging and waiting 30 minutes a good battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.
Wouldn't a bad battery display syptoms whether the kill switch or the key was used  
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Depending on the production date of your bike the battery is 4-41/2 years old...that's when they start acting up.

Especially on a low mileage bike that does not get ridden regularly to keep the battery fresh.
 
(SnapAttack @ Sep. 10 2007,20:01)
(BA BUSA @ Sep. 10 2007,19:43) After charging and waiting 30 minutes a good battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.
Wouldn't a bad battery display syptoms whether the kill switch or the key was used  
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You're having electrical problems...lets start with the battery issue  
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Is this one OK...just need a charge and a little service
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or do you need a new one
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Then we can move on to any other issues  
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(BA BUSA @ Sep. 10 2007,19:43) After charging and waiting 30 minutes a good battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.
Took it off charger for 2 hours. Battery reading 12.5.

As mentioned, I left the kill switch in the "on" position overnight. She fired right up after I hit the starter button.

So now that I'ved narrowed down the issue between the kill switch/starter, what else should I check before replacing it? I did have a small fluid leak out of the front brake reservior and was also caught in the rain about a week ago. Perhaps the switch could just be contaminated or dirty
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Has me puzzled since when I use the kill switch the diagnostics run fine just cause intermittent starting issue. if the switch was bad I wouldn't expect anything to happen...
 
i'll bet you have corrosion building/built up on the contacts of your kill switch. I'm an aircraft electrican and have seen this happen even on high dollar switchs on air force planes. Someone will call me out cause they flip a switch on some system that hardly gets used and it wont turn on or something. I flick the switch real fast a bunch of times and it will start working fine. I order a new switch of course but in the mean time it gets the old one working. If you take apart your right clipon housing and clean the switch with some contact cleaner, i'll bet your problem goes away. It sounds like your battery is quite old too though... electrical problems suck!! Oh.. i've also had a similar problem on my bike... found out the switch on the kick stand was gumbed up and it was sticking. Cleaned it up and it worked fine after...
 
(Sloto200 @ Sep. 11 2007,15:44) i'll bet you have corrosion building/built up on the contacts of your kill switch.  I'm an aircraft electrican and have seen this happen even on high dollar switchs on air force planes.  Someone will call me out cause they flip a switch on some system that hardly gets used and it wont turn on or something.  I flick the switch real fast a bunch of times and it will start working fine.  I order a new switch of course but in the mean time it gets the old one working.  If you take apart your right clipon housing and clean the switch with some contact cleaner, i'll bet your problem  goes away.  It sounds like your battery is quite old too though... electrical problems suck!!  Oh.. i've also had a similar problem on my bike... found out the switch on the kick stand was gumbed up and it was sticking.  Cleaned it up and it worked fine after...
Thanks.

I have some CRC Electrical Cleaner, will that work or do you recommend something else?

As far as the battery, it is not the original but I cannot tell you how long it has been on the bike. I do remember the previous owner telling me he replaced it and got a tender since he nver rode it that much. I ride a couple times a week. If I replace it, I will switch to the Yuasa YTZ-14S which is OEM for the Honda ST1300. Same sixe and more kick from what I've read.

Thanks for the input.
 
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