riggsracin
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do they make any kits so when my mps auto shift box shift it will kill the nos? also is there any boxes i could use so i could keep my tuning? i want the bike to run good when its not spraying and i dont want a pc
sparying with an auto shift?
- Thread starter riggsracin
- Start date
riggsracin
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???????????? any one?????????????????
boosta1395
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I run an MPS auto shift with a dry shot and it works fine. Backfire between shifts is normal and harmless.
On my wifes 05 that made 230 hp on a dry shot, I used the ecu to kill fuel / ignition, didn't get any pops that i could hear, and shifted just fine.
videographic proof LOL
videographic proof LOL
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Mr Brown
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The backfire they are talking about is a nitrous pop. It's gonna happen when you shift on spray.....
HAYABUSA1340
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Is it normal with just a pc and a exhaust full system
boosta1395
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Yep. The auto shift kills the spark to unload the engine for the shift. The injectors are still pumping fuel in the cylinders and out into the exhaust , when the spark returns BLAM it lights off any fuel in the exhaust. MPS makes an auto shifter that kills the injectors and no BLAM.
mps has a fuel kill box as well in their lineup now
when using ecu control for my air shifter on wifes nos bike i wasn't getting any pop that i could hear spraying 50 hp
when using ecu control for my air shifter on wifes nos bike i wasn't getting any pop that i could hear spraying 50 hp
Mr Brown
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Ahh! thanks for the heads up. Good to know the correct information....
Ludicrous Speed
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My MPS shifter does not pop when on motor, but does when spraying. The extra fuel added to the N20 map causes it. I have the kill turned down as far as it goes.
I would not buy a fuel kill box if you are spraying, as it will lean the engine out
I would not buy a fuel kill box if you are spraying, as it will lean the engine out
Busashot
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I use the ECU editor for the 99-07 Hayabusas as well as CycleTek air shifter kit. IMHO, together these just cannot be beat for the money and reliability. There's another plug for you Greg and Matt.........
Because your bike will accelerate quickly through the powerband, you can kill the nitrous about 400-500rpms before your shift point. You won't notice the drop in power in that short amount of time. This should help as by then most of the nitrous has been injested and spat out therefore probably no backfire. If the bike is overly rich it may backfire through the exhaust anyway. I turn mine off about 400rpms before and the map is left rich the rest of the way to the shift point. If you are able to data log, you will see the AFR will most likely be right around 13.0 because of the leftover residue of nitrous in the airbox. On a 50hp shot, I like mine around 12.4 on pump and as high as 13.0 on race fuel.
Because your bike will accelerate quickly through the powerband, you can kill the nitrous about 400-500rpms before your shift point. You won't notice the drop in power in that short amount of time. This should help as by then most of the nitrous has been injested and spat out therefore probably no backfire. If the bike is overly rich it may backfire through the exhaust anyway. I turn mine off about 400rpms before and the map is left rich the rest of the way to the shift point. If you are able to data log, you will see the AFR will most likely be right around 13.0 because of the leftover residue of nitrous in the airbox. On a 50hp shot, I like mine around 12.4 on pump and as high as 13.0 on race fuel.
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Gixx1300R
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Kill the Nitrous between shifts by killing the solenoids. This can be accomplished with an MPS Kill box for the older bikes with dual coils.
B-12
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Sorry forgot to say: no nitrous on his bike
Pops with the fuel only.sometimes even big flames .
Gixx1300R
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Does he have the pair valve connected?
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