Replacing brake pads?
- Thread starter Two
- Start date
B4...if you have thin old pads the new thick pads will require less fluid when bleeding. Unless you are just changing the fluid and not the pads....then it done matter.
While you have the calipers off,....you might as well see if they need rebuilding...or just a good cleaning with brake cleaner.
While you have the calipers off,....you might as well see if they need rebuilding...or just a good cleaning with brake cleaner.
I'd suggest you wait until you are done with the fluid change and bleeding to add new pads since there is always a chance of getting brake fluid on the new pads making them ineffective.
Personally, I would change the fluid first and not fill the reservoir past the "Low Fluid Mark". After the fluid change is totally complete, remove the calipers and clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner. After the new pads have been installed and the calipers are back on the bike, pump the lever until it's firm and only then fill the brake fluid to the proper level.
With this approach there is no chance of contaminating the new pads with fluid.
Personally, I would change the fluid first and not fill the reservoir past the "Low Fluid Mark". After the fluid change is totally complete, remove the calipers and clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner. After the new pads have been installed and the calipers are back on the bike, pump the lever until it's firm and only then fill the brake fluid to the proper level.
With this approach there is no chance of contaminating the new pads with fluid.
Do you want to know what kind of oil to use also? You will get several different opinions on that was well.
I am not sure how you would get brake fluid on your installed pads while bleeding them....but if you sling it everywhere...maybe.
I would drain the brake system.....remove calipers....clean calipers....R/R pads....install calipers...then refill the fluid in brake system.
I am not sure how you would get brake fluid on your installed pads while bleeding them....but if you sling it everywhere...maybe.
I would drain the brake system.....remove calipers....clean calipers....R/R pads....install calipers...then refill the fluid in brake system.
All right lets start to get those front binders in serious order. A quick upgrade for your front braking system is some trick aftermarket pads. I'll be adding EBC HH pads in place of the stock ones on my GSX-R750.
First we'll lay out some basic tools needed for the job, nothing out of the ordinary:
and the sexy new pads:
first you will need to remove the two brake pad mounting pins from the caliper.
Next remove the two caliper mounting bolts, and remove the caliper from the disc. Be careful not to scratch up your rim, this will be a tight squeeze! Also, do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line or put excessive pressure on the lines.
Now your old pads should just pop right out. Be sure the spacers between the caliper and the mount don't get lost. I just leave them seated in the caliper mounts where they belong. Use some brake clean and a rag to clean the pistons. You'll also need to press the pistons back into the caliper to allow the thicker new pads to slide over the disc.
Next you'll want to take the metal backing plates off of the stock pads and put them onto the new pads. Then you can go ahead and put the new pads into the caliper. Be careful when handling the new pads. You do not want to get your grubby little **** beaters all over the friction material. If you do, CLEAN THE PADS! Clean brakes function properly.
Now you'll want to thread the pad mounting pins in a couple turns so the pads aren't falling out while you re-install the caliper. Make sure the pads are seated in their respective sides to allow ample clearance for the disc in between. Re-install the caliper over the brake disc. Make sure those spacers are there again!
Now go ahead and tighten everything up. Torque to the specs provided in your manual. For the k6/k7 600/750's the pad mounting pins are 11 lb/ft, and the caliper mounting bolts are 25.5 lb/ft. Squeeze the front lever a few times to seat the pads and make sure the brake pressure builds back up.
The other front caliper is exactly the same as the first.
Complete both sides, and now you'll be ready to roll stoppies like Jason Britton
(just kidding, stoppies can hurt and get you made fun of. just ride!)
First we'll lay out some basic tools needed for the job, nothing out of the ordinary:
and the sexy new pads:
first you will need to remove the two brake pad mounting pins from the caliper.
Next remove the two caliper mounting bolts, and remove the caliper from the disc. Be careful not to scratch up your rim, this will be a tight squeeze! Also, do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line or put excessive pressure on the lines.
Now your old pads should just pop right out. Be sure the spacers between the caliper and the mount don't get lost. I just leave them seated in the caliper mounts where they belong. Use some brake clean and a rag to clean the pistons. You'll also need to press the pistons back into the caliper to allow the thicker new pads to slide over the disc.
Next you'll want to take the metal backing plates off of the stock pads and put them onto the new pads. Then you can go ahead and put the new pads into the caliper. Be careful when handling the new pads. You do not want to get your grubby little **** beaters all over the friction material. If you do, CLEAN THE PADS! Clean brakes function properly.
Now you'll want to thread the pad mounting pins in a couple turns so the pads aren't falling out while you re-install the caliper. Make sure the pads are seated in their respective sides to allow ample clearance for the disc in between. Re-install the caliper over the brake disc. Make sure those spacers are there again!
Now go ahead and tighten everything up. Torque to the specs provided in your manual. For the k6/k7 600/750's the pad mounting pins are 11 lb/ft, and the caliper mounting bolts are 25.5 lb/ft. Squeeze the front lever a few times to seat the pads and make sure the brake pressure builds back up.
The other front caliper is exactly the same as the first.
Complete both sides, and now you'll be ready to roll stoppies like Jason Britton
(just kidding, stoppies can hurt and get you made fun of. just ride!)
IG.
Registered
I didn't realize that on Gen 2 the calipers must come off in order to change the pads - that's an inconvenience.
I have a '01, and occasionally I would pull the pads out just to check on them. Pretty easy on Gen 1 - undo two small screws and remove the caliper cover, take the small clip out of the pin, and take the pin out. Then, just pull the pads out.
I have a '01, and occasionally I would pull the pads out just to check on them. Pretty easy on Gen 1 - undo two small screws and remove the caliper cover, take the small clip out of the pin, and take the pin out. Then, just pull the pads out.
Invest in a $20 mity-vac vacuum pump with hoses,fittings and cannister to bleed brakes.If the fluid is low from the worn pads, just compress the pistons and keep an eye on the resevoir so it doesnt over fill.Put the new pads on, bolt the calipers on, then suck the old fluid from the resevoir, add fresh fluid then bleed with the pump.Real easy.
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