Radiator / coolant system sucking air

Thanks Delbert. Been trying to figure out where to gap the valve clearance too, closer to the minimum spec or closer to the maximum spec? Doing some research on it and a couple automobile forums state it is best to "shoot" for the mid range of the spec being that the valve (at minimum spec clearance) stays open longer and will burn up the valve "quicker"; the theory, (from what I've been researching) is that the valve dispurses heat whilst in the closed state through the head. Not sure if that applies to the busa, but makes sense in theory from an engine standpoint.

This is a snippet of the thread that persuaded me to redo my clearances from what I got now.

"Adjusting valve clearances for "maximum performance" depends on quantifying what you consider performance. If you want maximum horsepower at higher rpms, then you want to maintain your valve clearances as low as possible within specs (.03 mm). Like KevinC said, the valves will open sooner and stay open longer. But, there is no free lunch. Having valves that stay open longer mean they spend less time closed, which is where heat from the valves is disippated to the cylinder head. Hotter valves, even if kept within tolerances, will wear out more quickly.
In my book, there are less-risky ways to obtain what little gain you obtain from running valve clearances on the razor's edge. My goal is to retain clearances within the standard of .03 to .05mm, and leave it at that; but my ideal of maximum performance is to have the engine lead a long and happy life, not peak horsepower"


Right now I'm right ON the minimum spec on every valve and was quite proud of myself for accomplishing that until I questioned that accomplishment. So I've order more shims .05mm thinner than what I got in there now to open up the clearances to more over the mid range clearance. Let the wait game begin on snail mail to deliver my thinner shims.
The stealership told me to spec them all at the maximum range side of the spec. Who knows, i'm figuring if I'm in the middle somewhat, I should be good to go.
 
i would aim for the middle too , i had a zzr1100 once which i adjusted valves near the maximum spec and needless to say the engine was a lot noisier after :banghead:
 
:cheerleader:
Major progress last night. Engine is now "docked".

New shims came in along with my CarboTune Pro. A happy day. Was able to get some side projects done during the "downtime". i.e.. Exhaust header resurfaced and rattle can'd'; HID delay box removed and rewired for direct battery power.
Very happy with my valve clearances. All spec'd at mid range but the two on the intake side ends at 1.8. Only way they could be adjusted more would be with some odd ball shims that I could not find. So I left as is and called it a day.
Hopefully by weekending, I'll be posting up an initial "engine startup" video. Tunning the injectors don't look all that difficult. Called the stealership and they wanted 150.00 to tune them. Figured that I may as well invest the money on the Carbotune and do it myself here on out.

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Bye-Bye OctoPuzzy!!
:cheerleader:
Really like how it cleaned up the front of the engine. Can't wait to feel that extra .001999 horse power I'll be gaining w/ it gone...:laugh:

Been working second shift @work this past week (feel like a zombie), so that put me behind "start-up date". It's all good. Radiator / oil cooler assembly next; double back on electrical connections and routing and I think we'll be ready for fluids. Almost there.

:beerchug:

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:banghead:
!!CRAP!!
:banghead:

Battery is a BRICK! Had it on the trickle charger for about 24hrs. Dead as a nail; well 1.9volts.
Picking one up on the way into work tonight; Think I'm done with the WallyWolrd battery route. Gonna get lubed up and drop some cash at the stealership for a sealed battery.
More than likely I'll be waking up the wife at 3AM cranking her up for the first time...:laugh:

All fluids in and ready to go..

Any special procedures on starting up a "dry" bike. i.e... priming the fuel lines, topping off radiator fluid...etc?..

Video to follow tonight..
:cheerleader:

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:wtf:
Stealership wanting 143.00 for an OEM battery? How does that make sense? Not only that, they would have to order it and it would'nt be in till next week. Told em all I was packing was the "Super Grease" and left the KY at home and just to forget it. Even the guy at the front desk could not believe the price and had to recheck their Bill of Materials to verify.
So back to the "vault of knowledge" I went. Research here on the .org towards a good solid battery was pointing at the MotoBatt. (outside those never needs charging 189.00++ cadillac of batterys) "Pashnit" endorsed the MotoBatt so it MUST be Busa approved..lol
Could'nt find them on his website, so I pulled the trigger on one off feebay for 60.00 delivered. Far cry from those crooks up yander.



Let the waiting game begin.
::cry::
 
Lets get this party "started".
:cheerleader:

The wife took this picture just to tease me at work to come home early this morning...lol Unfortunately looking at a 4AM arrival time.

"Do or Die" vid forthcoming.
:please:

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Okay.... so... I get everything set up and push the record button on the camera. Turn key on, toggled the fuel pump 6 to 7 times before I pushed the starter button. I heard the fuel pump on like the 4th time cycling the pump change tones somewhat like the fuel hit the pump and was now moving the fuel through the lines.
Look up and the camera was off.. Dead battery in camera. Crap! Spare dead too.
Anyways, about the 10th time turning it over it fires up and sounds great. Guages and lights good to go. Left the fast idle engaged while it was running and about 20 seconds or so the engine cuts off like someone had turned the engine kill switch off. Try to turn it back over to start it again, but it did'nt sound right while it was turning over. Almost like no compression was heard from the tail pipes. I go in the house to find another battery for the camera. Come back about 5 minutes later and try to start. This time I can hear the compression from the pipes as I turn it over, but not as "loud" as it was the first time, and it won't start again. After the 5 or 6th attempt in turning it over the FI light flashes. and there is either a F1 or FI code displayed.
Its as if its not getting a spark or fuel.. checked all my fuses... all good.

Any ideas?

I'll get a video / sound clip when I got a full camera batt.
Must have sleep. Have'nt been to bed since yesterday 6AM.:sleepy:
 
Heres the video after it ran for about 20 seconds or so then shutdown.
I took off the airbox and noticed a open plug, left side of the throttle body as shown. Can't find the female side of the plug which may plug into that connector, been trying to figure out what it is actually is (according to the manual), but its a "tight knit" area and hard to read from the manual.

Also put my hand over the the injector intake with the air box off, tried to start it again and noticed that number ONE and THREE "cylinders" are not pushing air like that of number TWO and FOUR cylinders/ports. This normal?

PICT0009.jpg
 
Traced and root caused the plug. When I did the small airbox mod for my nitrous plate, this is the juncture where it told the flapper to open or close. Its connected into my nitrous electronics as it should be to acuate the circuit at a preset rpms via ECU flashing. So I'm good there.
Not sure why it would just stop running after 20 or so seconds and never to start back up.
???
 
Traced and root caused the plug. When I did the small airbox mod for my nitrous plate, this is the juncture where it told the flapper to open or close. Its connected into my nitrous electronics as it should be to acuate the circuit at a preset rpms via ECU flashing. So I'm good there.
Not sure why it would just stop running after 20 or so seconds and never to start back up.
???
And it still wont stay running?
 
Does'nt even sound like its trying to start. Just turns like in the video/sound clip. I'm at a total loss. I was very happy for about 30 seconds when it was idoling. It sounded great. I did'nt rev it or anything. Just let the fast idol do the running of the engine, in thought that the oil needed to prime and reach the top of the head. It wasn't a slow sputter type of engine stop like it needed fuel or I needed to give it throttle to keep it running. Just an instant engine shutdown. (as if you were to hit the engine kill switch)
Man do I wish I had my phone recording it to as a back up. I "thought" I heard something "werd" from the right side of the engine when it shut down but was'nt sure. (were the cam chain is). Like a soft "p-a-a-h-t-w-i-n-g"
 
Ok stupid question here, what is the cranking voltage?

Also make sure the ground cable at the starter is tight!
 
Okay so with the grnd lead of volt meter on batt ground and the positive lead on the post to the starter, it reads 10.90 volts. (as i'm try to start her up)

Both ground and positive connections at the starter are good and tight.
 
Battery is NO good,, the coils require 12 volts, or the bike wont fire, try jumping it!
 
Sorry to be stupid, how do I do that. Jumpers from a car battery without the car running?
WoW... a brand new batt straight outta the box. Guess that could happen.
 
Jump with a car, and the car not running!
Sorry to be stupid, how do I do that. Jumpers from a car battery without the car running?
WoW... a brand new batt straight outta the box. Guess that could happen.
 
Also make sure the air box sensors are re connected!
 
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