Quickshift sensor for power commander V

@Oldtimermick any laptop should work unless it's a mac because the PC5 software only works with Windows operating systems. I bought an old Gateway LT4010u refurb off of Ebay and I think it costed about $60. A small, light laptop is better than a bigger one if you ever need to carry it velcroed to the tank for tuning on the road. The USB cable supplied by Dynojet is long enough that you can probably run it out of a ground level window to the bike from a desktop computer. DJ will be able to assist you with navigating the software if necessary. I think I even have that marked down.

Here's how to download and install DJ software.

I've never actually used the PC5 quickshifter feature but here's what I understand about programming it from conversations with DJ. Step 30 is the quicshifter feature.

As far as choosing a kill time, my ZX-14 needs 90 mls to do it reliably under any conditions (gear, rpm, load, throttle position). I hear the busa's gearbox is a lot slicker, personally I can't feel a great deal of difference between my ZX-14 and my busa now that the 14 has worn in. The busa has always been a bit smoother at high rpm but I can't tell if it's any faster having neer used a quickshifter with it. All you can do is try the kill time that feels the smoothest. Obviously, faster is better but not if the shift fails to complete.

If you do miss a shift, the transmission will either stick in a false neutral between gears or it will kick back down to the previous gear. I always suggest people pull the clutch lever and coast to a stop to get the transmission back in first gear from a false Neutral. Missing shifts at high rpm often took me by surprise and I tried to rev match to downshift after coasting a few seconds at idle speed. This lead to some really harsh downshifts that caused some serious and unnecessary wear on the gear dogs of that bike. I saw chunks of steel coming out in the oil changes for some time after. It should be ok if you pull the clutch and shift up after missing an upshift with the quickshifter. I'd even be a little leary about that. At this point, I'm used to it enough that I do a second upshift immediately if a shift is missed. The engine speed doesn't drop too much if you do the second upshift fast enough. You're probably not going to do that if you miss a 10,000 rpm clutchless shift. Swallow your pride and roll to a stop. Then do the roll back and forth while working the shift pedal. It will shift if you roll the wheel a few feet. Hopefullly nobody will see you. :laugh:

From your brief descriptions of the IRC settings, it sounds like four of them are duplicating the settings of the PC5 quickshifter feature settings. If I'm right about this, maybe the module can be used for the PC5 settings called Kill Time, Kill Mode, Switch Style, Minimum RPM. Those sound like the same settings in the module that are called Cut Time, Cut Mode, Push or Pull, Minimum RPM Limit. If the module communicates with the PC5, maybe you just do most of the settings through the module. That would be really handy for tuning on the road. No need to carry a laptop with you. However, if the IRC module doesn't communicate with the PC5, I would think you would need to rely on the PC5 software to adjust these settings. The PC5 communicates directly with the ECU, the IRC module just hooks up to the PC5 switch inputs...but maybe it exchanges data with the PC5 as well as completing the circuit to cut ignition.
 
Good choice. I think that's the one I'd have gone with too. I have a Bazzaz for my busa so I'll be using ECU Editor to set up a quickshifter. The IRC might still be a good way to go with that. What I really want is an HM GP with autoblipper for clutchless upshifts and down shifts. There's some money for something I really don't need but it sounds like fun!
 
Good choice. I think that's the one I'd have gone with too. I have a Bazzaz for my busa so I'll be using ECU Editor to set up a quickshifter. The IRC might still be a good way to go with that. What I really want is an HM GP with autoblipper for clutchless upshifts and down shifts. There's some money for something I really don't need but it sounds like fun!
Yes I think it’s a good choice too, I’m not sure but I think you can use it as stand alone on any bike if you buy the harness from them that interrupts the coil connectors for that model.
I have sent an email asking this just in case I decide to put it on another bike without PC5.
As for the programming of the PC5 I have already downloaded the software on my laptop and just waiting for the USB cable and IRC to arrive.
Big thanks for your input and help with all this mate, when it’s all hooked up I will let you know how it goes.
 
@Oldtimermick any laptop should work unless it's a mac because the PC5 software only works with Windows operating systems. I bought an old Gateway LT4010u refurb off of Ebay and I think it costed about $60. A small, light laptop is better than a bigger one if you ever need to carry it velcroed to the tank for tuning on the road. The USB cable supplied by Dynojet is long enough that you can probably run it out of a ground level window to the bike from a desktop computer. DJ will be able to assist you with navigating the software if necessary. I think I even have that marked down.

Here's how to download and install DJ software.

I've never actually used the PC5 quickshifter feature but here's what I understand about programming it from conversations with DJ. Step 30 is the quicshifter feature.

As far as choosing a kill time, my ZX-14 needs 90 mls to do it reliably under any conditions (gear, rpm, load, throttle position). I hear the busa's gearbox is a lot slicker, personally I can't feel a great deal of difference between my ZX-14 and my busa now that the 14 has worn in. The busa has always been a bit smoother at high rpm but I can't tell if it's any faster having neer used a quickshifter with it. All you can do is try the kill time that feels the smoothest. Obviously, faster is better but not if the shift fails to complete.

If you do miss a shift, the transmission will either stick in a false neutral between gears or it will kick back down to the previous gear. I always suggest people pull the clutch lever and coast to a stop to get the transmission back in first gear from a false Neutral. Missing shifts at high rpm often took me by surprise and I tried to rev match to downshift after coasting a few seconds at idle speed. This lead to some really harsh downshifts that caused some serious and unnecessary wear on the gear dogs of that bike. I saw chunks of steel coming out in the oil changes for some time after. It should be ok if you pull the clutch and shift up after missing an upshift with the quickshifter. I'd even be a little leary about that. At this point, I'm used to it enough that I do a second upshift immediately if a shift is missed. The engine speed doesn't drop too much if you do the second upshift fast enough. You're probably not going to do that if you miss a 10,000 rpm clutchless shift. Swallow your pride and roll to a stop. Then do the roll back and forth while working the shift pedal. It will shift if you roll the wheel a few feet. Hopefullly nobody will see you. :laugh:

From your brief descriptions of the IRC settings, it sounds like four of them are duplicating the settings of the PC5 quickshifter feature settings. If I'm right about this, maybe the module can be used for the PC5 settings called Kill Time, Kill Mode, Switch Style, Minimum RPM. Those sound like the same settings in the module that are called Cut Time, Cut Mode, Push or Pull, Minimum RPM Limit. If the module communicates with the PC5, maybe you just do most of the settings through the module. That would be really handy for tuning on the road. No need to carry a laptop with you. However, if the IRC module doesn't communicate with the PC5, I would think you would need to rely on the PC5 software to adjust these settings. The PC5 communicates directly with the ECU, the IRC module just hooks up to the PC5 switch inputs...but maybe it exchanges data with the PC5 as well as completing the circuit to cut ignition.
You are right about the duplication side of it and in theory if I leave all the PC5 settings at zero the IRC would be controlling all those settings which would make it handy to adjust on the road as you mentioned.
Thats the problem with theory though, as Einstein quoted “in theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not”
 
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