Plug and play fusebox for accessories

[smithabusa]

Would there be any utility in something like this for a gen1 or gen2 busa? I see lots of guys running all kinds of electrical stuff these days, and know that some struggle with wiring. This would attach to the positive and negative leads of the battery, and would plug into the tail light connector to turn the relay on with key on. Have a main fuse feeding everything and you could make all of your connections at the fuse box terminals (it has a ground bus).

This isn't exactly what it would look like, need to upsize the main wires and terminals a bit but this is what I mocked up regarding wire/connector placement etc.

 

[BigBSBusa]

Yes.

 

[smithabusa]

This one out of Japan is a fair bit smaller, has 8 fuses total, 2 unswitched, 6 switched, but the box itself is $65 plus shipping without any wiring etc. It uses screw terminals for the wire connections which I don't like as much as connections that you could crimp ends on and then screw down.

 

[smithabusa]

Size

 

[GIXERHP]

Greg, i had the one from Japan, and i think i still have it somewhere, works great, and has the option for Switched and Constant 12 circuits

 

[smithabusa]

Greg, i had the one from Japan, and i think i still have it somewhere, works great, and has the option for Switched and Constant 12 circuits

I definitely like the looks of it, asked about buying in qty for a discount but no dice unless I buy 100. By the time I wore it all up and make it a product it will get expensive with the base part being so high

 

[GIXERHP]

I know exactly who you are talking about. I was looking for stuff for the Concours 14, as I'm a Site supporter over there now

 

[mabupa]

These things definitely make life easier. I had a mess on my bike and just bought one of the fuzeblock FZ1 and cleaned everything up real nicely. I found it a little pricey at $100 shipped and then having to spend money on wires, wire loom and terminals. I really needed 2 of them, one behind the nose and one on the tail, but didn’t want to spend so much at once. If you put a kit together. I would probably order one to try in the tail section (installed the FZ1 in the nose section and used all 6 circuits already).

 

[202mphbusa]

I want at least one

 

[smithabusa]

These things definitely make life easier. I had a mess on my bike and just bought one of the fuzeblock FZ1 and cleaned everything up real nicely. I found it a little pricey at $100 shipped and then having to spend money on wires, wire loom and terminals. I really needed 2 of them, one behind the nose and one on the tail, but didn’t want to spend so much at once. If you put a kit together. I would probably order one to try in the tail section (installed the FZ1 in the nose section and used all 6 circuits already).

would you want to go the fz1 route again? Looks like it has a 30 amp max capacity, and 10amp per circuit capacity, is that any issue?

Curious what type of electrical loads you guys would foresee needing?

 

[GIXERHP]

would you want to go the fz1 route again? Looks like it has a 30 amp max capacity, and 10amp per circuit capacity, is that any issue?

Curious what type of electrical loads you guys would foresee needing?

The largest loads would be, bottle warmers, and the larger nitrous solenoids

 

[smithabusa]

The largest loads would be, bottle warmers, and the larger nitrous solenoids

what kind of current do they need?

 

[GIXERHP]

Ill look around, i sold my Nitrous set up

 

[mabupa]

would you want to go the fz1 route again? Looks like it has a 30 amp max capacity, and 10amp per circuit capacity, is that any issue?

Curious what type of electrical loads you guys would foresee needing?

I’m happy with it and only thing I wish for, is that it was smaller in size. As for the amp capacity, all I run through this one are small electronics like a dashcam and such. I’m not sure I would go the same route for my tail section electronics, because I would like to be able to run even my heated gear connector through said fuse block and not sure if there is one that can support something like that.

 

[smithabusa]

I’m happy with it and only thing I wish for, is that it was smaller in size. As for the amp capacity, all I run through this one are small electronics like a dashcam and such. I’m not sure I would go the same route for my tail section electronics, because I would like to be able to run even my heated gear connector through said fuse block and not sure if there is one that can support something like that.

Any idea the current draw on heated gear?

 

[pashnit]

Smith, you want to know if it would be feasible to bring a fuse box into your product line?

Twisted Throttle offers this model: ($135)

DENALI PowerHub2 fuse block master ground block and wiring harness.

Try the DENALI PowerHub2 Power Distribution Module. Safely connect up to 6 electronic devices. Shop motorcycle electronics at Twisted Throttle.

twistedthrottle.com

I have the Fuzeblock ($90) as I sold these many years ago. Used same one last ten years. My switched power is sourced from the license light power wire on my busa. I've always wired my Heated gear direct to the battery.

The Fuzeblocks.com FZ-1 : Compact, switchable power distribution block with onboard relay allows you to safely wire your 12V accessories with ease!

The FZ-1 is a uniquely designed compact fuse block. With its onboard relay, you have the choice for each accessory to have constant power or turn on or off automatically with your vehicle. Its 6 individually fused circuits that can be easily configured simply by moving the fuse to a different...

www.fuzeblocks.com

 

[HayaWakened]

Would there be any utility in something like this for a gen1 or gen2 busa?

View attachment 1629434

View attachment 1629435

Yes, interested

 

[Berlin Germany]

hmmmm - all of that tiny things are nice but not really cheap

my solution to get some e.g. 4 more / new contacts to connect up to 4 several new "consumers"
is to take a 4-point connector with 6.3mm female pins from elsewhere
connected all 4 by four 1.0-1.5mm² wires soldered to one 2.5mm² wire and lead this one wire over a 30A relay over a 30A fuse to batterie plus.
the relay is switched by igniton voltage (rear brake switch or so) so i have no voltage in the "news" when ign. is off.
if one of the 4 new consumers cause a short circuit the fuse burns and nothing else is in danger.
all new consumer wires get a single 6.3 mm male connector get plugged into my 4-point.
nothing is easier i guess and you only need one lonely fuse to make em all electrical save.
costs around 10 €.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

what kind of current do they need?

I identified these bottle warmers:

AN-1220AD

AN-1220AD, Nitrous Bottle Heater, Nitrous Bottle Warmer, ARC, Applied Racing Components, Nitrous Heater, Nitrous Warmer, Black Nitrous Bottle Heaters, Black Nitrous Bottle Warmers, 120 Volt AC Nitrous Heater, Full Wrap Nitrous Heater, Nitrous Bottle Heate

archeat.com

225 Watt 12 VDC at 22 amps
335 Watt 13.8 VDC at 25 amps
450 Watt 16 VDC at 29 amps

A glance at solenoids identifies some large ones at a fraction of this current, 8A for example.

 

[smithabusa]

I identified these bottle warmers:

AN-1220AD

AN-1220AD, Nitrous Bottle Heater, Nitrous Bottle Warmer, ARC, Applied Racing Components, Nitrous Heater, Nitrous Warmer, Black Nitrous Bottle Heaters, Black Nitrous Bottle Warmers, 120 Volt AC Nitrous Heater, Full Wrap Nitrous Heater, Nitrous Bottle Heate

archeat.com

225 Watt 12 VDC at 22 amps
335 Watt 13.8 VDC at 25 amps
450 Watt 16 VDC at 29 amps

A glance at solenoids identifies some large ones at a fraction of this current, 8A for example.

yikes those warmers are HIGH current