Only 145 rwhp???

[Rhythm]

MR9 would be a better choice of fuel for your setup.

 

[johnstein]

get an air filter ,before the next tune , try to get some more air into the engine , BMC race filter

 

[Commuta_Busa]

I hope they didn't charge you for waisting your time on their craptacular dyno

 

[02BlackBusa]

sorry typo on the race gas....its VP racing U4 race gas..

I was getting ready to say you should have loss hp using C16 with your mods. And I hope you flushed your fule pump thoroughy after using U4!!!!
That shid will gum up your throttle bodies and fug up your pump if you let it set too (30 days) long in your tank.

well it hasnt had any problems. although when i do run the U4 i go through a full tank in one day. haha

 

[kawiboy11]

wow, that's allot of torqe man!

 

[Marc Salvisberg]

That's what she pulled on that dyno on that day...bikes and dyno's vary.

If it runs good, don't get caught up in the #'s game

Some brands of "dynos" read different HP numbers than other brands http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html and Sports Car international's http://www.factorypro.com/magazin....on.html - and some brands aren't very consistent amongst their own mates with Cycle Canada's http://www.factorypro.com/magazine/mag_cyclecanada_Dynojet_dyno.html - This how dynos work (the difference between inertia dynes and dedicated eddy current dynes) from Sportrider Magazine. http://www.factorypro.com/magazine/mag_SPORDR_Dynos_explained.html and if you every see smoke off the rear tire, the run is useless, except to see what tire slippage looks like -

Generally, an, "all stock" Busa would make, on a Factory Pro EC997 dyne system, True HP delivered to the drive roller, as measured under load) from 135 to 142 True HP.
That's with many stock Busa's tested.
135 to 142 True HP = about 155 to 163 Dynojet HP on an "average reading" dj dyno. That's from comparing calibrated True HP to DJ "dynos" readings over the last 15 years. The range of "DJ correction" on individual DJ dynos, though, has ranged from adding nothing (for a low reading DJ with a slipping rear tire) to almost a 20% "addition factor".

The DJHP "torque" figures can be affected by incorrect rpm calibration, as can any dyne system's torque numbers.
The final HP numbers aren't affected by a wrong tach ratio, they just get put over the wrong rpm number.

A dyne's final HP figures are affected negatively by tire slippage - to a GREAT extent. If you ever see smoke - expect at least a 5% HP loss.
At the end of a "dyno run", the tire's surface should be a "matte" finish - as a "shiny" tire contact patch means that there was at least a few % slippage and that directly relates to a few % lower HP reading.
Knurled driver rollers, while they work OK when sharp and brand new, they lose their power holding traction when the "sharp" edges of the knurled peaks get rounded - and that doesn't take very long.

Our EC997 tach ratios are created under full power and load, at 2/3'ds the rpm band - to eliminate tach ratio errors - and traction is far superior than a used knurled drive roller. http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6405586-claims.html

And for sure, besides that - incorrect correction factors will mess up both the torque and HP figures on any dyne system.

Best regards -

Marc

Marc Salvisberg
Factory Pro Dyne Systems
San Rafael, CA USA
800 869-0497

 

[Professor]

Marc,

I've noticed that the DynoJet numbers vary. Usually I see files and sheets from the 250i which has an eddy current load cell reporting numbers that seem to be realistic. On the other hand I have seen quite a few dyno runs on the older (inertia type) dynos that have numbers that appear to be way off base. 170hp on a stock 99-07 is just not going to happen.

My bike has a Yosh 4-1 with a pc and was "tuned"￾. On his dyno, I have sheet that shows 168.8 hp. Which I think is over optimistic. I ran it on a 250i and peak hp was 152.2 SAE. This seems to be closer than the numbers you were quoting.

Do you find the newer Dynojet systems with eddy current loading are more accurate than the older ones? I seems to me that is the case.
I guess if I ever get a tuning shop, I need two dynos. Yours with a 4 gas setup for precision tuning and an older DynoJet to post numbers and sheets to brag about!

Rick

 

[jokerjoed]

I just got my 07 busa done

4-1 Yosh SS w/carbon fiber can
Power Commander
Air pump removered and ports capped
TRE

Stock on the dyno registered 153 rwhp
After the alterations later that day 168 rwhp

The torque went from 93 to 101

I'm not sure if the dyno is 100% correct, but it did show a 10% jump in HP and I could definately feel it adn hear it

 

[Johnnycheese]

look it is easy to find out what is real and what isn't
ask for the dyno conditions and check them against what is real.
took me 4 years but now I am reading correct SAE and STD.

 

[busainvegas]

i have a 2000, with power comander, akrapovic full exhaust, k&n filter. i haven't removed the pair yet. my Busa has 55,000 miles on it and its a california bike. it pulled 157 hp and 103 tq. it goes as fast as i want it to. i'm happy with it. what i may lack in hp, i will make up with my riding skills, hahaha!

 

[Supergank1]

what JohnnyC said...go somewhere else they don`t sound like they know what they are doing to me??? also like bquinn says how doe`s it feel? Don`t get too caught up in a #

 

[Supergank1]

oh yea my 07 with 1500 miles with brock/hindle full exh,air box mod,pair mod, pc3 and brocks map pulled 173 with 87 pump gas..

 

[Got-Busa?]

Thanks J.C.! I feel better now

. At least I'm in the 150's. Do you think my bike should have gotten more?
I'm going to change the airfilter (it's still stock) and do the small airbox mod and change my fuel filter. After this I'll get her dynoed again. I wish you weren't soo far away. I'd ask you to tune it.

Thanks again!
Shawn

I can't believe you didn't do the small box mod. You've got more air coming out with the new pipe, you need more air in. With that and the PAIR mod, you should pick up a few more hp...

You also want to check your chain and tire psi before. Make sure it's the same from here on out when you get it dynoed. Try to duplicate every aspect if you really want to compare the new mods for gain/lose results. Same thing when you go to the track...good luck!

 

[suzukimike]

gentlmen.
A chassis dynometer is a tuning device that aproximates the power output to the wheels . dont get caught up in #s every dyno in the world will give you a different # on the same bike . use it as it was designed ... case in point my last car 2002 wrx wagon had been modded to 280s whp 290s wtq and it would have no problems beating some exact same cars with a supposed higher output # . there was one car that should have killed me and had me $hitting my pants and quess what ? his tuner must have been asleep when he tuned it cause it was a dog and that poor guy had his A$$ handed to him by a car that had no right doing so ...