Just FYI: If you have anything to add post it..
I have been polishing various things throughout my life from rocks to weapons to anything on wheels.
I‘ve discovered from either trying one product or another, mixing this and that, or just going
to the extremes, that it is up to the person on how dedicated they are to obtaining the shiny surface.
However, I have also learned another thing that is very important. What you have to go through to get that
shine, is it worth it? Yes it is. Hard work pays off. But you do not have to kill yourself to get it.
I have learned the following:
Wet sanding with water and a detergent is better for three reasons.
1) No dust. Aluminum Silica is not only bad but it will destroy brain
cells faster than drinking rubbing alcohol. It causes Alzheimers and
silicosis of the lung tissues.
2) the cleanup is easier and aluminum dust that has the greasy polishing
compound with it will stick to anything and scratch it.
3) You do not have to worry about pitting that occurs from overheating when dry sanding.
The best method I have found is pretty common and simple.
Jasco Paint Remover is a good product there are many similar ones too such as Aircraft stripper.
Aluminum Naval Jelly or a simple welding prep chemical is good too. The Old Easy Off Oven Cleaner
worked the best for anodized finishes, but is no longer available. I’ve been looking for another chemical
that will do the same thing. Muratic acid wash work good too but is dangerous, caustic and hard to work with.
Don’t try unless you know what you are doing. The gases alone will kill you. Not only dangerous to You but
Will burn the metal, yes, BURN it BLACK! That’s another story. I have done a burnt polishing and it was bad ass.
But it’s easier to just powder coat it. High Gloss Black or Jet finish.
Always wear gloves and a breathing apparatus or when sanding with or without tools.
Low to medium speed always. Working grain one way will give you the best finish but it is very hard and
tiring by hand. Machines such as die grinders, drills and polishers go one way. That is why they work better
than your hand. Use Sanding blocks for and even flat application. Start out with coarse grits (320-400) to
smooth it down, remove casting imperfections and pitting. When you are finished with that grit
graduate to finer grits up to 1000 grit and from there go to rubbing compound. After you achieve the
white milky raw aluminum finish, Use 2000 grit sand paper until you feel that is it smooth. Use 40-80 thread
count fabric or terry cloth with a medium compound, Mothers or Eagle One, works well. For final polishing,
I recommend using a fine thread count (160-300) fabric and two products, Alcoa Green paste is really the best (green solid) is what all the shops use) or Turtle Wax Polishing Compound, Green container (White Paste). For the final shine, use cotton balls and
a polish with ammonia in it. Finally the best sealant method is a cheap one, remove the black deposits left
from the compounds, with 409 or Simple Green and a soft sponge and water. Blow off the water with air.
The best sealer which will last for about 3-4 months with a light bike wash, once a week is Pure Carnauba.
Do not be fooled. Pure Carnauba is just that. I have used all kinds of waxes and I think it is the best.
I know there are new technologies and polymers out there, just remember to use a wax with absolutely
NO ABRASIVES! fine. But it’s like the difference between vinyl records and CDs. It’s how you see it.
Turtle Wax makes a Yellow Paste (Yellow Can) for New Car finishes that has no abrasives at all. Best
thing is to apply a light coating with a man-made light foam sponge. Wait until it has hazed and then
buff with a baby diaper (Note baby diapers should be washed with just water, No soap, No fabric softener
and tumble dried, because they are very coarse if they are fresh out of the package.)
Steel wool is also good for initial smoothing but the dust is not worth it.
Remember to cross sand the grain to work it down faster and try not to sand in one place to work out an
imperfection. Do it evenly on the surface.
As I mentioned before the best way is wet sanding.
Anymore Info. Email me.
RidersNation
Roy
I have been polishing various things throughout my life from rocks to weapons to anything on wheels.
I‘ve discovered from either trying one product or another, mixing this and that, or just going
to the extremes, that it is up to the person on how dedicated they are to obtaining the shiny surface.
However, I have also learned another thing that is very important. What you have to go through to get that
shine, is it worth it? Yes it is. Hard work pays off. But you do not have to kill yourself to get it.
I have learned the following:
Wet sanding with water and a detergent is better for three reasons.
1) No dust. Aluminum Silica is not only bad but it will destroy brain
cells faster than drinking rubbing alcohol. It causes Alzheimers and
silicosis of the lung tissues.
2) the cleanup is easier and aluminum dust that has the greasy polishing
compound with it will stick to anything and scratch it.
3) You do not have to worry about pitting that occurs from overheating when dry sanding.
The best method I have found is pretty common and simple.
Jasco Paint Remover is a good product there are many similar ones too such as Aircraft stripper.
Aluminum Naval Jelly or a simple welding prep chemical is good too. The Old Easy Off Oven Cleaner
worked the best for anodized finishes, but is no longer available. I’ve been looking for another chemical
that will do the same thing. Muratic acid wash work good too but is dangerous, caustic and hard to work with.
Don’t try unless you know what you are doing. The gases alone will kill you. Not only dangerous to You but
Will burn the metal, yes, BURN it BLACK! That’s another story. I have done a burnt polishing and it was bad ass.
But it’s easier to just powder coat it. High Gloss Black or Jet finish.
Always wear gloves and a breathing apparatus or when sanding with or without tools.
Low to medium speed always. Working grain one way will give you the best finish but it is very hard and
tiring by hand. Machines such as die grinders, drills and polishers go one way. That is why they work better
than your hand. Use Sanding blocks for and even flat application. Start out with coarse grits (320-400) to
smooth it down, remove casting imperfections and pitting. When you are finished with that grit
graduate to finer grits up to 1000 grit and from there go to rubbing compound. After you achieve the
white milky raw aluminum finish, Use 2000 grit sand paper until you feel that is it smooth. Use 40-80 thread
count fabric or terry cloth with a medium compound, Mothers or Eagle One, works well. For final polishing,
I recommend using a fine thread count (160-300) fabric and two products, Alcoa Green paste is really the best (green solid) is what all the shops use) or Turtle Wax Polishing Compound, Green container (White Paste). For the final shine, use cotton balls and
a polish with ammonia in it. Finally the best sealant method is a cheap one, remove the black deposits left
from the compounds, with 409 or Simple Green and a soft sponge and water. Blow off the water with air.
The best sealer which will last for about 3-4 months with a light bike wash, once a week is Pure Carnauba.
Do not be fooled. Pure Carnauba is just that. I have used all kinds of waxes and I think it is the best.
I know there are new technologies and polymers out there, just remember to use a wax with absolutely
NO ABRASIVES! fine. But it’s like the difference between vinyl records and CDs. It’s how you see it.
Turtle Wax makes a Yellow Paste (Yellow Can) for New Car finishes that has no abrasives at all. Best
thing is to apply a light coating with a man-made light foam sponge. Wait until it has hazed and then
buff with a baby diaper (Note baby diapers should be washed with just water, No soap, No fabric softener
and tumble dried, because they are very coarse if they are fresh out of the package.)
Steel wool is also good for initial smoothing but the dust is not worth it.
Remember to cross sand the grain to work it down faster and try not to sand in one place to work out an
imperfection. Do it evenly on the surface.
As I mentioned before the best way is wet sanding.
Anymore Info. Email me.
RidersNation
Roy