On Polishing

RidersNation

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I have been polishing various things throughout my life from rocks to weapons to anything on wheels.
I‘ve discovered from either trying one product or another, mixing this and that, or just going
to the extremes, that it is up to the person on how dedicated they are to obtaining the shiny surface.

However, I have also learned another thing that is very important. What you have to go through to get that
shine, is it worth it? Yes it is. Hard work pays off. But you do not have to kill yourself to get it.

I have learned the following:

Wet sanding with water and a detergent is better for three reasons.
1) No dust. Aluminum Silica is not only bad but it will destroy brain
cells faster than drinking rubbing alcohol. It causes Alzheimers and
silicosis of the lung tissues.
2) the cleanup is easier and aluminum dust that has the greasy polishing
compound with it will stick to anything and scratch it.
3) You do not have to worry about pitting that occurs from overheating when dry sanding.


The best method I have found is pretty common and simple.

Jasco Paint Remover is a good product there are many similar ones too such as Aircraft stripper.
Aluminum Naval Jelly or a simple welding prep chemical is good too. The Old Easy Off Oven Cleaner
worked the best for anodized finishes, but is no longer available. I’ve been looking for another chemical
that will do the same thing. Muratic acid wash work good too but is dangerous, caustic and hard to work with.
Don’t try unless you know what you are doing. The gases alone will kill you. Not only dangerous to You but
Will burn the metal, yes, BURN it BLACK! That’s another story. I have done a burnt polishing and it was bad ass.
But it’s easier to just powder coat it. High Gloss Black or Jet finish.

Always wear gloves and a breathing apparatus or when sanding with or without tools.

Low to medium speed always. Working grain one way will give you the best finish but it is very hard and
tiring by hand. Machines such as die grinders, drills and polishers go one way. That is why they work better
than your hand. Use Sanding blocks for and even flat application. Start out with coarse grits (320-400) to
smooth it down, remove casting imperfections and pitting. When you are finished with that grit
graduate to finer grits up to 1000 grit and from there go to rubbing compound. After you achieve the
white milky raw aluminum finish, Use 2000 grit sand paper until you feel that is it smooth. Use 40-80 thread
count fabric or terry cloth with a medium compound, Mothers or Eagle One, works well. For final polishing,
I recommend using a fine thread count (160-300) fabric and two products, Alcoa Green paste is really the best (green solid) is what all the shops use) or Turtle Wax Polishing Compound, Green container (White Paste). For the final shine, use cotton balls and
a polish with ammonia in it. Finally the best sealant method is a cheap one, remove the black deposits left
from the compounds, with 409 or Simple Green and a soft sponge and water. Blow off the water with air.
The best sealer which will last for about 3-4 months with a light bike wash, once a week is Pure Carnauba.
Do not be fooled. Pure Carnauba is just that. I have used all kinds of waxes and I think it is the best.
I know there are new technologies and polymers out there, just remember to use a wax with absolutely
NO ABRASIVES! fine. But it’s like the difference between vinyl records and CDs. It’s how you see it.
Turtle Wax makes a Yellow Paste (Yellow Can) for New Car finishes that has no abrasives at all. Best
thing is to apply a light coating with a man-made light foam sponge. Wait until it has hazed and then
buff with a baby diaper (Note baby diapers should be washed with just water, No soap, No fabric softener
and tumble dried, because they are very coarse if they are fresh out of the package.)

Steel wool is also good for initial smoothing but the dust is not worth it.

Remember to cross sand the grain to work it down faster and try not to sand in one place to work out an
imperfection. Do it evenly on the surface.

As I mentioned before the best way is wet sanding.
Anymore Info. Email me.

RidersNation

Roy
 
The best sealer which will last for about 3-4 months with a light bike wash, once a week is Pure Carnauba.
Do not be fooled. Pure Carnauba is just that. I have used all kinds of waxes and I think it is the best.
Sounds like good info, but I'll point out one thing. True "pure" carnauba wax is hard and brittle and would crumble, not turn into a paste or cream. Therefore, no automotive wax product on the shelf that says it's 100% pure carnauba actually IS 100% carnauba. If it was you'd have to take it out of the container and put it on like writin' with a crayon or the base of a candle and you'd NEVER get it to pour out of a bottle. It is pulverized into super fine powder and softened/diluted with petroleum distillates and often mixed with other types of softer, easier to spread waxes to make it useable.

I read somewhere a LONG time ago that the whole carnauba hype was just like the teflon paint treatment hype. It's a fact that the process required to get teflon to bond to a surface requires some HIGH temperatures. A lot more than you'll ever create rubbin' wax on and off of a car.

I'm not sayin' that all "carnauba" containing products are crap, I'm just sayin' that the fact that it contains carnauba isn't what makes those products work like they do.
 
Hey Roy....good write-up.
Our methods are mirror images of each othe until the polishing point.

I always start polishing with a Black emery polishing brick on a spiral sewn wheel to further aid in removing very fine imperfections in sanding preperation that were overlooked......believe me, they're always there......sanding from 300 to 2000 is very tricky to get absolutely flawless without some small part/place that was overlooked.....usually in tight corners, or near mounting bosses.

Then "always" switch yer wheel....I prefer White Diamond compound on a "spiral" sewn wheel again, to further aid in removing imperfections barely visible to the eye......for many this is a great place to finish.....yer al will look as near to chrome as possible, and if done correctly you will have a perfect mirror image of a fingernail at 6 inches away.....kind of a measuring increment I use to know if I'm doin a decent job.

For absolute show finish, I'll use White Diamond one more time, but on a "loose" sewn wheel.....this, to me... gives an absolute show quality final finish, that can not be criticized.
I have had numerous folks ask me where I had my frame chromed, as there is no-where in Canada that does frame chroming.
When I tell em it's only polished, they cannot believe it, of course, even with a good carnauba wax sealent at the end, this perfect shine does not last long.....true it is always extremely shiney, but never as shiney as the second you finish it.......unfortunately aluminum is very soft and looses shine quickly even by contact with your jeans while riding.
Still worth every second you put into it as far as I'm concerened.
Like you say Roy.....wax er up every few months "it only takes a few minutes", and yer good to go blind more people in the sunlight.
 
Thank You fellas for the positive input. Yes I klnow Carnauba is very stiff, I just meant a product that has no abrasives. Coolness. I was talking to someone from Brazil who has a VTX, and he said something about "Guano"
rock.gif

Yes either batshit or the other "Guano" (WTF). anyways he said the ammonia and the fine grit in it works like a charm to get to the polishing stage.

Ever hear that one.
Revlis and Gjoker shaking their heads about now.

Commercial on Speedvision:::
Snoop Dogg with a clothes pin on his nose, on his bike....

"I polished my ride with Batshizzle. The only eco friendly metal polish in the world. Just a dab and Kablammm You are Blingy baby. For Rizzle use batshizzle"

Rides off people holding their noses as he drives by.

HEHE
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Roy

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I don't know about hype, but I know when I bought my vette I asked around the vintage restoring circles (where they pay a fortune for their paint jobs) and I talked to automotive painters. Almost to a man (no ladies involved this time) they all said use ONLY carnauba wax on your fine finishes after proper preperation. I remain open minded, but it seemed to me there must be SOMETHING to the carnauba wax if the experts in the auto finish world recommended it so highly. The comment about it being hard and needing to be in a medium with a solvent also makes sense to me.
 
Thank You fellas for the positive input. Yes I klnow Carnauba is very stiff, I just meant a product that has no abrasives. Coolness. I was talking to someone from Brazil who has a VTX, and he said something about "Guano"
rock.gif

Yes either batshit or the other "Guano" (WTF). anyways he said the ammonia and the fine grit in it works like a charm to get to the polishing stage.

Ever hear that one.
Revlis and Gjoker shaking their heads about now.

Commercial on Speedvision:::
Snoop Dogg with a clothes pin on his nose, on his bike....

"I polished my ride with Batshizzle. The only eco friendly metal polish in the world. Just a dab and Kablammm You are Blingy baby. For Rizzle use batshizzle"

Rides off people holding their noses as he drives by.

HEHE
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Roy
Lol!!!
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You ain't right Roy!
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laugh.gif
 
I don't know about hype, but I know when I bought my vette I asked around the vintage restoring circles (where they pay a fortune for their paint jobs) and I talked to automotive painters. Almost to a man (no ladies involved this time) they all said use ONLY carnauba wax on your fine finishes after proper preperation. I remain open minded, but it seemed to me there must be SOMETHING to the carnauba wax if the experts in the auto finish world recommended it so highly. The comment about it being hard and needing to be in a medium with a solvent also makes sense to me.
Yeah, it's hard to break old dogs of old tricks. A lot of the resto guys, both vette and otherwise but especially the vette guys, that I've dealt with while sellin' automotive paint and supplies also insist that acrylic lacquer and/or acrylic enamel paint technology is superior to urethane. Why? For most of them it's the simple fact that they've used it for a long time and they are used to it. They fear change, so they claim that the old way is better.
drooling3.gif
Also, keep in mind when askin' folks about stuff like this is that they are not necessarily "experts" just because they restore/paint cars for money.

Please understand that I ain't tryin' to convert anyone. I'm just sharin' an excellent product with those who might be interested in it. I don't gain if people buy it and I don't lose if they pass on it. I've just tried a LOT of stuff over the years and nothin' that touts carnauba as it's star player has ever came close to Zaino. In fact a some of the other polymer based products that don't come close to Zaino will still blow the carnauba waxes away.

I know I come across as a shill for Zaino. I've been told that many times on various forums. Truth is, I just spent a lot of money over the years on the latest and greatest products only to be disappointed over and over. I am just so impressed with Zaino, and the fact that it actually does what they claim it does and more, that I feel like I'm cheatin' folks if I don't tell 'em about it. I know I ain't the only guy who has/had a shelf full of different waxes and polishes that just never lived up to the hype behind them.
rock.gif


Trust me, I busted Sal Zaino's balls on the first forum I ever read bout his stuff on. I gave him pure Hell about no product bein' that much better than any of the others. In fact I ordered the shid just so I could prove to myself that it did NOT work like they said it did. Funny thing was it DOES work that much better than anything else available and now I'm considered a shill for the stuff. Things didn't work out the way I was expectin' it to.
blush.gif
 
Hi guys, following this thread with interest,anyway, has
anyone ever polished their stock exhaust with any success?
and if so, how? and any pictures??
thanks
 
Yeah, it's hard to break old dogs of old tricks. A lot of the resto guys, both vette and otherwise but especially the vette guys, that I've dealt with while sellin' automotive paint and supplies also insist that acrylic lacquer and/or acrylic enamel paint technology is superior to urethane. Why? For most of them it's the simple fact that they've used it for a long time and they are used to it. They fear change, so they claim that the old way is better.
drooling3.gif
Also, keep in mind when askin' folks about stuff like this is that they are not necessarily "experts" just because they restore/paint cars for money.

Please understand that I ain't tryin' to convert anyone. I'm just sharin' an excellent product with those who might be interested in it. I don't gain if people buy it and I don't lose if they pass on it. I've just tried a LOT of stuff over the years and nothin' that touts carnauba as it's star player has ever came close to Zaino. In fact a some of the other polymer based products that don't come close to Zaino will still blow the carnauba waxes away.

I know I come across as a shill for Zaino. I've been told that many times on various forums. Truth is, I just spent a lot of money over the years on the latest and greatest products only to be disappointed over and over. I am just so impressed with Zaino, and the fact that it actually does what they claim it does and more, that I feel like I'm cheatin' folks if I don't tell 'em about it. I know I ain't the only guy who has/had a shelf full of different waxes and polishes that just never lived up to the hype behind them.
rock.gif


Trust me, I busted Sal Zaino's balls on the first forum I ever read bout his stuff on. I gave him pure Hell about no product bein' that much better than any of the others. In fact I ordered the shid just so I could prove to myself that it did NOT work like they said it did. Funny thing was it DOES work that much better than anything else available and now I'm considered a shill for the stuff. Things didn't work out the way I was expectin' it to.
blush.gif
Don't worry about it. I've run into Zaino many times before over the last few years and many folks rave about it. I also had a rather long off-line email discussion with Sal a couple years back, I probably would have given his stuff a trial but he came off so condescending and arrogant that he turned me off. However, as I said, I remain open minded about the entire subject. I was not very clear when I was speaking about vintage and restoring circles: I have an in-law who has been in the high-end portion of the collectables arena. At one of their functions I had a chance to talk to some rather well-to-do and experienced collectors, builders (customs) and classic restorers. I don't think any of them (maybe 1) was actually a painter. It is noteworthy that the builder loved the new paint systems and laughed at the old school hand rubbed laquers etc. Anyway, it was mainly from these discussions that I discovered that many people in several facets of the high end auto game still regard carnauba as top drawer (doesn't last worth a darn in my opinion). I think experience is the best teacher and trying these various waxes/polishes and polymers leads each person to what best suits them. It is an interesting area.
 
Hi guys, following this thread with interest,anyway, has
anyone ever polished their stock exhaust with any success?
and if so, how? and any pictures??
thanks
YES SIR DOING MY SECOND SET.. pICS TO COME.
A challenge has been made that I cannot get the to look as good as chrome.

Step by Step: Remember WET-SAND. 3M or Hauser.

1.Start out with sanding block and 240 grit.
Until the machine ridges are gone and the grain is going the length of the tube.

DO NOT HAND SAND OR USE any rotary tools or the surface will not look uniform. Yes, you can use airtools with water.
Rotary tools are good for uneven surfaces. An air powered flat sander 2x14 works good for the midgrade step.

2. Second goto 400

3.then 600

4. 1000

5. and then Rubbing Compund

6. Finally the 2000

7. and the polish of choice.

Then DO NOT FORGET Carnauba based wax or glaze.

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