New no-start problem.  help please.

HMan

Registered
Ok, here is the deal. Went and had a new front tire mounted on Saturday. Was on my way home racing a storm.

I have a rough mount accessory plug for my GPS. In my haste to wire this up, I did not mount an inline fuse.

While I was getting the tire mounted, I put a new air filter in. When I put the tank back down I positioned the wires for the GPS wrong and pinched them. On the way home my tank rubbed through the wire's insulation and it grounded out on the outer rim of said tank. I didn't know this immediatly though. All I knew was that I suddenly went dead in the water. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to start it back up.

The bike turned over fine but it wouldn't start. Whenever I'd crank the throttle it would change tone in the exhause but it still wouldn't fire. I did notice that in the clock it said "FI". So, after a bit of thinking, I found the wire touching the tank. Amazingly it wasn't all melted and on fire as it was still touching the tank and it was still un-fused.

I immediatly hauled out the tools and got the tank up and moved the wire. I had called my Dad and he was enroute with a trailer. When he got there I tried to start it again. It actually got a moment of fire and just did a low growl for a few pulses and then just cranked again.

Loaded it up on the trailer and tried it again. Same deal. It growled and that was it. Its been that way since.

Once home, I tried spraying some starter fluid in the air box and the motor will fire just enough to growl so I figured it was getting fire. Still at a loss.

THEN, I realized something. When I turn the key, there is no sound of the fuel pump priming. Thought I'd check the fuses. Just came back in and I can't see a single fuse that is blown.

So... idea? Suggestions? I really don't want to spend a fortune to get this resolved and quite frankly I don't have a fortune to spend.

Any ideas you can give would be helpful.
 
Was this hard wired to the battery?

Is there anything not working? Lights, clock, anything?

Is there still a charge on the battery?
 
(heavybusa @ Mar. 05 2007,14:04) Was this hard wired to the battery?

Is there anything not working? Lights, clock, anything?

Is there still a charge on the battery?
Everything else seems to work. Battery is fully charged with a battery tender and tender shows green.
 
My first guess would be that the plastic around the connections for the fuses may have melted causing a bad connection.

That has happened to me before.

Did you check the voltage on either side of the fuse or do a visual inspection?
 
(heavybusa @ Mar. 05 2007,14:17) My first guess would be that the plastic around the connections for the fuses may have melted causing a bad connection.

That has happened to me before.

Did you check the voltage on either side of the fuse or do a visual inspection?
Did a visual inspection. Can't see anything wrong.

However, the wire in question is hard wired to the battery so I'm not sure if it would of had any effect on the fuse box.
 
Yeah, the plastic could have easily melted under or around that box OR the grounded are could have a bad connection because of build up under the bolt. (like corrosion)

When this happens its hard to "see" the damage.
 
Do you have a multi meter?

FL78.jpg
 
The worst possible scenario could be burned up solenoids or motors/pumps due to the over load. But usually the fuse would save that.
 
(heavybusa @ Mar. 05 2007,14:25) Do you have a multi meter?

FL78.jpg
No. I don't.

As for the fuses. Why would the fuses/solenoids/etc go bad when the wire that was short circuiting is hardwired to the battery and not off of a fuse?
 
When you turn the key on does the clock still say FI or CHECK,
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A multimeter or light is the only way to know for sure about the fuses, however if the thing was wired straight to the battery it should not have affected the fuses, just drained the battery. The small wire you pinched should have become the fuse. Have you completely removed the wiring you installed ? It could be grounded elsewhere now. I would yank that puppy completely until this is resolved.

The fuel pump want prime if any of the safeties are interlocked. That's where I'm going.

Also for future information there's a small connector with a brown and white wire in the nose. Use it.
 
(dadofthree @ Mar. 05 2007,14:37) When you turn the key on does the clock still say FI or CHECK,
rock.gif


A multimeter or light is the only way to know for sure about the fuses, however if the thing was wired straight to the battery it should not have affected the fuses, just drained the battery. The small wire you pinched should have become the fuse. Have you completely removed the wiring you installed ? It could be grounded elsewhere now. I would yank that puppy completely until this is resolved.

The fuel pump want prime if any of the safeties are interlocked. That's where I'm going.

Also for future information there's a small connector with a brown and white wire in the nose. Use it.
It no longer says FI.

The wire for the GPS has been removed.

Pump still won't prime (so I assume its not pumping period).

What connector are you talking about?
 
Correct Do3 but my concern here is not from a positive terminal perspective, but that the frame was grounded and every connection to a negative terminal was shorted.

The system will not react the same and some connections start to melt.

At times you will smell burning plastic and never see the spot.

I also fear that the computer or rectifier may have been over loaded.
 
(heavybusa @ Mar. 05 2007,17:42) Correct Do3 but my concern here is not from a positive terminal perspective, but that the frame was grounded and every connection to a negative terminal was shorted.

The system will not react the same and some connections start to melt.

At times you will smell burning plastic and never see the spot.

I also fear that the computer or rectifier may have been over loaded.
The ECU and Voltage Regulator could have been damaged, but are prolly purdy robust in design.

It's a small connector used for bikes outside the US. It has voltage on it and is fused. Lots of folks here use it for accessories.

If the clock reads CHECK, you need to make sure the bikes in neutral, or clutch is pulled in, the kickstand is up if not in neutral and the red kill switch is in the normal position.

A short between negative and negative would be zero problem, a short between positive and negative would drain the battery and you don't want to ever put anything directly across the battery, that would get ugly fast.
 
Have you checked the connection to the pump. Sorry haven't looked to see the year of your bike or where you're located.
 
I seriously doubt this is the case with the Busa, but I have seen the negative side of a DC Circuit grounded and a diode open up as a fuse would. Don't think this would happen on the Busa.
 
You have an '03, and I think the fuel pump will be a part of the tank. The book shows a 10A fuse going to the FP Relay.
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(dadofthree @ Mar. 05 2007,17:55) I seriously doubt this is the case with the Busa, but I have seen the negative side of a DC Circuit grounded and a diode open up as a fuse would. Don't think this would happen on the Busa.
Thats what I was trying to think through.

This probably didn't make it to the fuse box.
 
Sorry, I was off getting pepper sprayed. Ughh..

Ok, tomorrow I'm going to see if I can get out in the garage and check a few more things. I have a bad feeling that with limited resources and equipment, I'm going to be at the mercy of a mechanic.
 
there may be some members near by.

Do you have a camera, pics will help a lot!!
 
(heavybusa @ Mar. 05 2007,20:05) there may be some members near by.

Do you have a camera, pics will help a lot!!
Asking me if I have a camera is like asking me if I can shoot a gun. LoL

What do you need/want pics of? I can take video with sound if you like as well.

Let me know what you need and I'll hook it up.
 
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