Motorcycle Oil

N2OIL

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I am just trying to decide which oil to run. Too many choices
so far Bel-ray, Mobil, & Redline. I am looking for a good oil for my Busa and do not have any experience with oil & wet clutch compatibility. Thanks for your time.  
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mobil one red cap, but they just did away withthat so I"ll have to find something else.

maybe amsoil, or motul.
 
Since most motorcycles uses a wet clutch (same oil as the engine) i was told and also have experienced that full synthetic oils tend to make the clutch slip prematurely (it simply sticks too much to the clutch discs).

That is why i use a semi-synthetic blend instead. I use Motul and change it every 5000KMs (3125 miles)
 
Seems like I am the only one here that still uses conventional oil....but that is only because I bought a damn case of suzuki 20w50 a while back and don't feel like wasting it....I may switch to synthetic after it is gone....and as long as my buddies ask me to do oil changes that should be soon...

As for the syn making the clutch slip....I think that is if you use automotive synthetic....I have heard that motorcycle synthetic has different additives which allow it to work with the wet clutch set ups....where the automotive oils are not properly set up for this....Plus most racers all use sythetic, and if the clutch slipped I doubt they would use it....
 
i use valvoline supersyn, my friend works as a mechanic, for chevrolet. he "brought" me a case home, they use it in the corvette Z06... pretty good stuff, no slippage, bike runs strong...i heard that mobil 1 has been known to seize the busa's engine?! not jumping the gun tho. b/c i use mobil 1 in my cage (car) b4 supersyn however, i used castro syntec ( used by factory BMW)
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I'm using Petro-can Duron XL 10/40 semi-synthetic for 3.79 $. Amsoil is $12.00 mail order or $17.00 at the stealership.

Petro can 10/40 Duron semi synthetic

FP --- 448
VI --- 156
ht/hs --- 4.3
PP --- -54
ash --- 1.37
TBN --- 10.3


Amsoil 10/40 motorcycle oil synthetic

FP --- 450
VI --- 173
ht/hs --- 4.20
PP --- -54
ash --- 1.0
TBN --- 12.0
 
Seems like I am the only one here that still uses conventional oil....
Nahhhh , I bet there are a bunch of closet dino oil user's here  
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I think a better question might be what oil to you use , why did you choose it and would you please quantify the results .

I don't know how to say this w/o coming across as an arse because I just try to help but..... I see so much BS spewed out of mouths on the internet . I see stupid stuff like use 5w-30 to XHP , 10w-30 for above XHP  in race engines. Info like that should be written as they use it , not as a recommendation because people think these types are in the know when in reality ..........................
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I see the don't use car oils because of the clutch . Oils are much different for 2005 . Using some of them for very long , the damn clutch will be your last worries . There's more though but not enough time .

Then I see Honda recommending 8k mile oil changes in their owners manuals . Thats with 10w-40 dino man ! No way I would ever do that .

Some think they are doing better using a syn blend . Companies make it , there's a market but is it the ticket ? Is that syn blend really have synlube base oils or group III fake synthetic ? If it does have PAO , what other base oils is it blended with ? If they are low grade group I's , will they take a hit in the ring pack area ?

I gotta run . Bought a new bike and have to travel to get it .Kinda tired of oil topics anyway but if you want to take time to start adding 2+2 here and maybe search Rollingalong at the Sport-Touring site , these ae good starts .

Making educated oil purchases is best IMO .
 
I am looking for a good oil for my Busa and do not have any experience with oil & wet clutch compatibility.
You will not find an oil today , in the correct viscosity that will be incompatible with the Busa clutch .

That right there is a good start to help dispell the rumors and myths about the internet .

Next would be which are true synthetics and which are the one's your pay more or the same for a lessor product .

Next would be which oils offer the best protection .... as in additive pack strength vs dollars spent . Brand vs brand so to say and base oils used .

Next would be why you don't want to use the 10w-40 and 20w-50 Walmart oils ith the API SM designation on it .

Once points like this are down pat , the learning curve becomes easier . There's alot to it yes . But we don't have to learn it all .
 
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