I’m an idiot lol

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jcornwell101

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Is there a link to the service manual for second gen’s on here?

My rebound adjuster is stuck down on the left and on the right it doesn’t do 10 clicks. So I think the nut moved way too much when assembling for forks. So I have to pull them back off and readjust that.

When placing the rebound rod thing back in the cardtridge before putting the cap on should it be flush with the hole or sticking up alittle?
 
Awesome
I rode my bike to my parents house so it doesn't have to sit outside. It felt ok once I got it up to speed around 50-60mph the front end felt unstable and weird. Over bumpy sections it felt like the bars would begin to shimmy and i felt like if I didnt slow down it would begin to tank slap. I feel like the left fork rebound adjuster is stuck full hard and the right fork is softer. So one size very harsh the other is not as bad so it gives an oscillating feeling in the bars at speed. Steering head bearings I just replaced and I know those were done right as I have done those before with tapered on many bikes. But, this was my first time working on inverted fully adjustable forks. The other dampening rod forks I have rebuilt or replaced springs on either were preload only or no adjustment. So that upper nut going to the cap was always at a fixed position. So its been a big learning experience with this bike which I have enjoyed so far.

I appreciate the help
 
Read the manual carefully - all the setting dimensions are described very well there.
torques also.

to the “vibrations” (vibs).
even if the fork were set completely wrong, there would be no vibrations in the handlebars.

two possibilities:
- you didn't tighten any screws correctly
- the lower bearing shell of the tapered roller bearing has settled a little and the fork came a lil bit loose
- your front wheel bearings are screwed

and if they aren't, the vibes could even come from the rear wheel bearings

wheel bearings = special topic

in my now 15 years of experience with the hayabusa, the original, factory-installed ones are absolute crap.

after around 40,000 km they tend to be in the ass and need to be replaced
- ideally all of them at the front AND at the back
- it's only about 2 hours of work and around €70 in material costs
if you use the best bearings with two rubber lips . Manufacturers SKF, INA, FAG, Allballs
 
I don't think I explained the handling issue well.

Steering head bearings I installed the tapered ones and followed the instructions of the dellboys garage video on you tube.
Because, I did the same process on my vfr with good results. I tighten them as much as I can with the spanner I have to seat them.
Then I put the front end together and left it up in the air. I then loosened the castle nut until I didn't feel any binding and steering felt light. I pulled hard on the front end towards me and did not feel a clunk. I tightened the locking nut on top of where it was at and torqued down the top triple clamp. I then shoved the front end down to let the axle settle in its natural place and tightened everything up.
I plan on checking this again once I get the forks back in

The forks I put the rebound adjuster on full soft before taking them apart. On the left side it would not adjust and on the right side I only have 5 clicks. I don't think I screwed them on there right and I think the forks are stuck full soft. I placed that needle inside of the cartridge, but when I see some of them it seems like it kind of floats in there. Mine seemed to sink straight down.
I am 100% I screwed up the spacing when putting them back together. Wherever it sat when I had the dampening rod holding tool is where I tightened it down to.

When I am riding around the neighnorhood everything feels ok. Once I get above 50mph the front end starts to feel like it wants to wander and I can feel the bars start to wobble. In bends the right side feels different from the left.

I have an extra liter of 7.5w fork oil, I want to drain the fork oil I have in there and double check the fork caps and set the proper spacing for them.
I have a caliper at my dads house I can use to make sure its correct. Also how far do the forks stick out of the top triple clamp? I think I have that set too far down. I marked it out on a tape measure, before I took them apart and its about there.

I am 100% I caused my own problem though with the front end. Steering head bearings I have done more than a few times so I am not worried there. But, with the forks this is the first time I have worked on forks with more than preload adjustments and that are inverted.
 
There are fork height recomemdations for where they should sit in the triple clamps, but there is not specific place it must be.
The top edges of the tubes, which generally sit slightly above, or flush with the upper triple clamp, can even sit below the top surface of the upper triple clamp.
The varience in height there is part of suspension tuning, as to the pitch of the bike, and how much weight is on the front wheel.
It is similiar to raising the rear of the bike.
But rather than in big jumps of an inch to inch and a half like in most cases, being able to make adjustments in small increments, front and rear, can make a big difference fine tuning the best handling.
Youtube what Dave Moss has to say about it all.
As for calipers, absoloutely use them to make sure that both forks are the same height in both triple clamps.
For your fork assembly, I've had to go back and redo them, as I don't do them often, but, just start over, and follow the service manual, and you will be fine.
I also personally feel that the 7.5w fork oil performs much better than the stock 5w of the Gen2 Busa forks.
I am about 193 lbs in full gear, so approaching the end of the stock springs' weight range.
The 7.5w oil was a good bandaid, and even with stock valving and internals, performed Much better.
I had 32-35mm of sag, with a firm but stable ride, and I had no lack of confidence in it what so ever.
 
I installed a Hyperpro streetbox with progressive springs in front which came with 7.5wt fork oil. Along with a rear shock they built for my weight and style of riding. The rear shock has a progressive spring to and the valving they build to what riding you do and stuff. The kit all together is $698, but when I did this to my VFR it was magical and its been on there since 2010 without issues.

I think my steering head bearings need to be tightened again that I installed and I need to put the fork caps on correctly with proper damping rod nut spacing.
 
To check the steering neck bearings, hold the front brake, and ease out on the clutch in first gear, but not enough to stall it, then pull the clutch back in.
Any slack in the bearings will be felt here.
Doing this standing next to the bike will give you a better veiw, as if the slack is enough, movement will also be visible.
 
www.hayabusa.org

Suspension Settings - another one to try? | Gen 2 Busa Information

Just read their review of 2012 Busa vs ZX-14... they posted suggested suspensions settings: 2012 Kawasaki ZX-14R vs Suzuki Hayabusa - Sport Rider Magazine Suggested Suspension Settings Front: Spring preload — 6 turns out from full stiff; rebound damping — 6 clicks out from full...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
Kristen Bell Conan GIF by Team Coco
 
jcornwell101 said:
Is there a link to the service manual for second gen’s on here?

My rebound adjuster is stuck down on the left and on the right it doesn’t do 10 clicks. So I think the nut moved way too much when assembling for forks. So I have to pull them back off and readjust that.

When placing the rebound rod thing back in the cardtridge before putting the cap on should it be flush with the hole or sticking up alittle?
Click to expand...


gen2 manual download link
 
Interesting thread. I bought a 2012 busa with 18,000 kilometers on the clock from a Yamaha dealer. When I inspected it I noticed the fork seals were leaking slightly, and the shop replaced them for me before I took delivery. When I went to adjust the rebound damping on the forks though I get 9-clicks on the left leg and only 6 on the right leg. I found an old thread here that explained the issue as being an internal locknut on the fork cap bolt being set at the wrong height. (bottom LH of schematic)

FORKS SCHEMATIC-02.png



I currently have the rebound damping set at 4 out so I have the range I need but I think I'll take it to a dedicated Suzuki dealer who did work on my last busa and have them install better springs and valves, they can fix this at the same time. The upgrade wasn't that expensive last time I did it and the difference was noteworthy.

old thread: Fork Rebound Screw Won't Click | Gen 2 Busa Information
 
www.hayabusa.org

Suspension Settings - another one to try? | Gen 2 Busa Information

Just read their review of 2012 Busa vs ZX-14... they posted suggested suspensions settings: 2012 Kawasaki ZX-14R vs Suzuki Hayabusa - Sport Rider Magazine Suggested Suspension Settings Front: Spring preload — 6 turns out from full stiff; rebound damping — 6 clicks out from full...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
you can read about it now ~ or just pay for it later *
Tipping Jim Carrey GIF
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
Read the manual carefully - all the setting dimensions are described very well there.
torques also.

to the “vibrations” (vibs).
even if the fork were set completely wrong, there would be no vibrations in the handlebars.

two possibilities:
- you didn't tighten any screws correctly
- the lower bearing shell of the tapered roller bearing has settled a little and the fork came a lil bit loose
- your front wheel bearings are screwed

and if they aren't, the vibes could even come from the rear wheel bearings

wheel bearings = special topic

in my now 15 years of experience with the hayabusa, the original, factory-installed ones are absolute crap.

after around 40,000 km they tend to be in the ass and need to be replaced
- ideally all of them at the front AND at the back
- it's only about 2 hours of work and around €70 in material costs
if you use the best bearings with two rubber lips . Manufacturers SKF, INA, FAG, Allballs
Click to expand...
What he said!
Loose Bearings closeup.jpg
 
@fallenarch

this wheel is from wich bike ?

i personnally had that issue now with i guess 7 or 8 busas - at gen 1 and gen2

the original , factory-installed , bearings at nearly ALL jap. wheels , ones are absolute crap.

my strong recommendation is to replace ALL , in japan factory-installed , bearings - no matter which Japanese manufacturer - they all , since the early beginning , just install this cheap poop ex works that only has a (one) single metal sealing washer.
every f uckin drop of water forces its way through/past it when the shaft seal has worn a few thousand km and the bearing is in ruins (rusted) after just a few thousand km.
a double rubber lip as a seal (SKF, FAG INA), marked here in Germany with "2RS" in the bearing description, is the only chance to prevent pictures like the one above from Fallenarch in the long term. (80-90000 km)
these "2rs" bearings in combination with new shaft seals are the only real thing.
everything else is pure scrap / crap
and the sheer stinginess behind it has been pissing me off for decades now.

rip out these damn japan factory-installed bearings and replace by "2rs" !!!
best a week after getting the bike in your garage -
no matter if the bike is brand new or 15+ years old !!!
anyone who shows thrift/stinginess here in this case , is risking his damn ass / health or even more .
 
Today I tightened my steering head bearings and the wondering went away. I am taking the forks off tomorrow to see reset the damping rod nuts and to double check oil level.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@fallenarch

this wheel is from wich bike ?

i personnally had that issue now with i guess 7 or 8 busas - at gen 1 and gen2

the original , factory-installed , bearings at nearly ALL jap. wheels , ones are absolute crap.

my strong recommendation is to replace ALL , in japan factory-installed , bearings - no matter which Japanese manufacturer - they all , since the early beginning , just install this cheap poop ex works that only has a (one) single metal sealing washer.
every f uckin drop of water forces its way through/past it when the shaft seal has worn a few thousand km and the bearing is in ruins (rusted) after just a few thousand km.
a double rubber lip as a seal (SKF, FAG INA), marked here in Germany with "2RS" in the bearing description, is the only chance to prevent pictures like the one above from Fallenarch in the long term. (80-90000 km)
these "2rs" bearings in combination with new shaft seals are the only real thing.
everything else is pure scrap / crap
and the sheer stinginess behind it has been pissing me off for decades now.

rip out these damn japan factory-installed bearings and replace by "2rs" !!!
best a week after getting the bike in your garage -
no matter if the bike is brand new or 15+ years old !!!
anyone who shows thrift/stinginess here in this case , is risking his damn ass / health or even more .
Click to expand...
09 Gen 2. Stock wheel and bearing. I was on my way to the Busa Bash in Robbinsville, NC. I felt a vibration in the front (just as you said), so I stopped and checked it. Then a wobble and finally it was moving everywhere. The rear bearing disintegrated completely. I had to have a tow truck take it 60 miles. He was a cool dude and had good conversations, but he cost a fortune!
 
fallenarch said:
(...) Then a wobble and finally it was moving everywhere. The rear bearing disintegrated completely. (...)
Click to expand...
yeah man

that´s what i meant with risking one´s ass / health

and following some pics from a ´08 gen2 at a mileage of 37000 km (front)
K8%20Radlager%20vo%20bei%2037.280_1.jpg
K8%20Radlager%20vo%20bei%2037.280_2.jpg


and 38500 km (rear)

K8%20Radlager%20hi%20bei%2038.721_2.jpg


plus a full damage of a (RH) bearing, what occurred lots of time to get it repaired without damaging the rim / the bearing´s seat

#1
K9%20Radlager%20hi%20bei%2090.000_1.jpg

#2
K9%20Radlager%20hi%20bei%2090.000_3.jpg
 
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