High Performance Brakeline Kits

[Guclu]

Although I'm not a fast driver , do i need a good brakeline kit , or , should i live with the regulars ?

Are these kits effect the stoppage time of the bike although you are going with a normal speed ?

If you say , yes , it effects , then , which kit is the best , which one should i buy ?


thanks friends ...

 

[busahaya]

Galfer seems to make a good set of lines, you might wanna check with they're website...

 

[hbr]

Have some Galfers and I consider it one of the best mods you can do. No comparison vs. stock lines.

 

[Guclu]

thanks for replies so i need a set of Galfers

 

[DaCol.]

Once you have'em, you will put them on every bike you ever buy  

. It really does make that kind of difference  

 

[busa_boy_69]

I have a set of HH composite PADS on my bike from galfer and I can tell you first hand that they kick serious arse. I have had the brake lines for the front and rear for almost a year and just haven't got around to putting them on yet. The weather was too nice for me to tear my bike apart and do it I wanted to be out riding HOWEVER it is crappy winter here and I am in the middle of a list of mods and they are scheduled to be put on next. Should have them on within a couple weeks. From what I know of their pads and what I have heard from other people using these lines they are a must bro.

 

[Juggler]

HEL makes good stuff (www.helusa.com). The nice thing about HEL is that they'll make custom lengths for no extra charge. Something to think about. They also use ALL stainless (no stainless/aluminum).

Good luck.

 

[BulletTrain]

Regardless of which brand you go with, high performance lines most definitely improve the performance of the brakes. I've done front lines on the last two bikes I've owned and will do them on any bike I own in the future. It's a must have modification in my opinion.

As for brand, I've gone with Galfer lines both times and have been happy with the quality, fit, and finish.

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

I have had the brake lines for the front and rear for almost a year and just haven't got around to putting them on yet.

ohhhh man.... it`s 45 minutes job!

Stock pads on busa are also HH.

I used Galfer and EBC HHs. I like EBC better.

Don`t bother with rear, it has too much stopping power already.
Streetntrack selling Galfer SS braided lines kit for about $160

 

[busa_boy_69]

I have had the brake lines for the front and rear for almost a year and just haven't got around to putting them on yet.

ohhhh man.... it`s 45 minutes job!

Stock pads on busa are also HH.

I used Galfer and EBC HHs. I like EBC better.

Don`t bother with rear, it has too much stopping power already.
Streetntrack selling Galfer SS braided lines kit for about $160

Hey man believe me I know its a 45 minute job but for me in the summer time the only time consuming thing I do is wash the bike and my maintenance. Any other time is time I can be out riding. It'll get done believe me. In the past couple weeks I put on the scorpio alarm and redid my gauges. It's my next mod. Are you sure the busa came with HH pads stock? I thought there were GG or something like that. I read somewhere that HH was a harder compound and would eat the rotor a little more but thats why they stopped better. I could be wrong. Also dude did you get the side shot of my undertail I posted on that one thread in the mod section? If not PM me and I'll hook ya up.

 

[Guclu]

Anyone here using Goodridge Brakeline Kit ? if yes , please rate it , thanx .



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[fstbusa]

some people say the goodridge line kit is a great kit.

 

[whytlotus]

Anyone here using Goodridge Brakeline Kit ? if yes , please rate it , thanx .

I have a set of Goodridge lines on my brakes and it was a night and day difference in the feel of the braking system. It gives me more confidence in the bikes stopping ability. You won't go wrong with any of the braided kits mentioned above.

 

[Steve127]

So what is the issue with stock lines that are presumably rubber? I remember watching a gen 3 review on YouTube and the guy saying he didn't understand why the new Busa didn't come with stainless lines as standard. My R1200 GS has stainless steel lines with Brembo callipers and the brakes are sharp and pull up well but I haven't ridden a GS with rubber lines to compare against to judge the difference. I understand not needing to upgrade the rear any further as once the front is doing it's job the rear almost becomes redundant. I read that the difference is night and day between rubber and stainless lines but what actually is the difference, do rubber lines expand slightly giving a slightly softer feel at the lever, do the stainless lines reduce stopping distances? Also the ABS system on the new Busa is quite a complicated system, are there any issues with bleeding once fitting stainless lines? Thoughts on this would be appreciated.

 

[VNE]

I'm actually going through this job testing atm.
My Gen II ABS is getting a full set of HEL braided lines.

These bikes are built to a dollar and the more Suzuki upgrades, the more expensive the bike becomes - hence some parts are left as lower grade.

Yes the OEM rubber lines do the job (for a while). Yes the rubber does expand thereby dropping available pressure to the caliper pistons reducing effectiveness with a spongy lever feel. So yes they are great to use for an average rider when purchased new as I did, but after four years or so (depending on environmental conditions, sun U.V and how you store your bike) the rubber degrades over the years and gets worse. Many people neglect to replace brake fluid over time too which also degrades. Compound this with a OEM front brake master that too wears out.
My brake master piston got sticky and started failing. The OEM master is not adjustable like aftermarket Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta, HEL or other good brands that can adjust mechanical advantage thereby changing hydraulic force.

Given the variables that must also be factored into stopping distance consideration such as tyres, rotors, calipers, pad quality and pad temperature = fade, wear on hydraulic hardware effectiveness and fluids, suspension, gross weight and also road surface to mention a few; braided lines can seem to reduce stopping distance by effectively reducing pressure loss to the caliper's pistons only.. and only if.. squeezing the brake lever your hardest doesn't produce enough brake pressure to engage ABS. But IMHO it doesn't reduce stopping distance - it just feels like it does with a harder (less spongy) brake lever simply because speaking only for a Gen II refresh with ABS, all you need to do is have enough brake pressure to engage the ABS and the stock set up can do that just as a braided set up can. The only difference is that with braided lines, you will kick in ABS easier with less finger lever pressure - so it appears like it is stopping quicker- but it gives me reassurance.

I'm only doing this upgrade because my rubber lines are old and need replacing and why not with better quality parts that last longer?
As for non-ABS Hayabusa's then hell yes it would help with stopping distance if you are a skilled rider and can apply more pressure to reduce stopping distance without wheel lock up using less finger pressure. Non-ABS feels more natural to me with more freedom of brake pressure manipulation as opposed to ABS which kicks in at a set pressure.

Bleeding the whole system is easy. The only issues I encountered was trapped air, so empty all lines at all calipers one at a time using a vacuum pump with an open reservoir cap.

To fill, bleed with the usual method, but open the master by applying pressure to the brake lever and clamp it down with pressure for several hours to allow trapped air in the ABS to return to the top of the reservoir.

 

[sixpack577]

Stainless steel lines will Not stop you any sooner.
They do improve the lever feel, especially in hot weather, or heavy brake use(even hotter fluid temps), as the heat causes the stock rubber lines to expand.
No line expansion(as the ss wrap prevents that) makes the lever feel less spongey, and the lever travel shorter.

 

[PhillipHarvey]

Although I'm not a fast driver , do i need a good brakeline kit , or , should i live with the regulars ?

Are these kits effect the stoppage time of the bike although you are going with a normal speed ?

If you say , yes , it effects , then , which kit is the best , which one should i buy ?


thanks friends ...

If you are not a professional or fast rider than is would be far better to avoid over speedy objects, in parallel world, if you wanna experience over speed then apply Galfer Brake Lines.

 

[wreckwriter]

I'm also looking at doing this upgrade. Did both lines on my Harley but have been hesitant on the Busa because of the abs. I know on GM cars it's almost impossible to bleed the abs without a special tool (tech2). Nothing special required here? I do have a vacuum bleeder.

 

[sixpack577]

I'm also looking at doing this upgrade. Did both lines on my Harley but have been hesitant on the Busa because of the abs. I know on GM cars it's almost impossible to bleed the abs without a special tool (tech2). Nothing special required here? I do have a vacuum bleeder.

No special tools are needed, I have bled motorcycle abs brakes and it's done the same way.
The only thing different is that you will have to bleed the abs pump as well, and it has no bleeders, so you will have to open/close the line bolts as if they were the bleeders(hold a rag over them to prevent fluid from spraying out).
If you don't bleed the abs pump, you'll watch the air push fluid back into the master cylinders, as the air pockets are between them and the pump.
I think the front MC on yours has a bleeder, but the rear does not, but if not, again, just open/close the line bolts going to them as if they were bleeders.
It's easy.
Also, if you don't know; regardless if you have abs or not, after you're done, it's a good idea to pump the front lever and ziptie it to the handle bar keeping the brakes applied(put cardboard around the grip to prevent the ziptie from damaging it).
Pump the brake pedal and hang a small weight by a string or ziptie to keep the rear brake applied.
Leave it this way for several hours(overnight is ideal).
Then, hold each brake as you remove the ties and open each bleeder again.
This Always gets more air out, as having the brakes applied for so long causes the rest of the air(that normally wouldn't come out) to slowly move to the end of the lines...the bleeders.
You'll always get another small spit of air out, and rarely have to add any fluid, unless the was another large air pocket(not common).
This ensures the best lever and pedal feel and gets All the air out.

 

[wreckwriter]

No special tools are needed, I have bled motorcycle abs brakes and it's done the same way.
The only thing different is that you will have to bleed the abs pump as well, and it has no bleeders, so you will have to open/close the line bolts as if they were the bleeders(hold a rag over them to prevent fluid from spraying out).
If you don't bleed the abs pump, you'll watch the air push fluid back into the master cylinders, as the air pockets are between them and the pump.
I think the front MC on yours has a bleeder, but the rear does not, but if not, again, just open/close the line bolts going to them as if they were bleeders.
It's easy.
Also, if you don't know; regardless if you have abs or not, after you're done, it's a good idea to pump the front lever and ziptie it to the handle bar keeping the brakes applied(put cardboard around the grip to prevent the ziptie from damaging it).
Pump the brake pedal and hang a small weight by a string or ziptie to keep the rear brake applied.
Leave it this way for several hours(overnight is ideal).
Then, hold each brake as you remove the ties and open each bleeder again.
This Always gets more air out, as having the brakes applied for so long causes the rest of the air(that normally wouldn't come out) to slowly move to the end of the lines...the bleeders.
You'll always get another small spit of air out, and rarely have to add any fluid, unless the was another large air pocket(not common).
This ensures the best lever and pedal feel and gets All the air out.

Yes I learned that trick about trying the levers overnight. Works great