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Here it is! My HID Headlamp Projecktion Mod
I originally planning to retrofit an hid projector from Acura.
But I decided to give what I had, a shot. The stock projector.
The reason for all this is because just by only using a plug and
play hid kit, it is improper because usable light is scattered
everywhere and ends up in oncomming driver's face. But there is
one problem with using hid bulb with stock projector. Because of
the longer hid bulb over halogen, the light output is actually
turned upside down. So you have a cut off on the ground, and
flooding light into the atmosphere, and guess where it ends up?
Exactly, in the drivers face. Here is my remedy for this.
Here is how it is done.
What you will need:
Screw driver - use a flathead you do not care about
philips screwdriver
JB weld
tie wraps
Socket wrench 10mm
and last but not least, your Wifes oven
You know the routine! Disconnect all wires, and bulbs etc so
you have only the headlamp assy. Good idea to clean the outer
lense with soap and water, then dry off. MAKE SURE you check clearance
between your headlamp and top heating coil of the oven before you heat.
Place your headlamp in the oven and bake on 250 degrees.
Check every
3 mins by taking lamp out, being carefull not to touch the clear lense
and start prying the assy from bottom half. it is held together with
epoxy glue. It took around 10 min for me, to where the glue was soft
and pulled apart easy. Just use the screwdriver to pry at each clip
and it will separate easily.
Now what you want to do is, back out the screws used to adjust the projector
assy. The will be the lower three bolts. The projector will come out after this.
Now, what you want to do is use that philips driver and unscrew the 4 small screws.
Doing this will allow for you to remove the projector from the mounting plate,
and turn the upside down, 180 degress. Looking through the back of the projector
the cut off plate should be on the bottom now.
There are 2 nipples on each side that will allow you to have correct straight
positioning. But you will be unable to use screws to secure it back to the
mounting plate. But this is where good ole JB weld and tie straps come in.
Mix some JB together and spread it over the mounting tabs
where the screws holes are. The projector has a little weight to it.
And I have used it to my advantage. In its drying position, the projector has
to be sitting onto the mounting plate. I found and old cup and sit the projector
onto the cup. The mounting plate overhung each side of the cup to suspend it.
I let it dry for about 7 hours. You can only let dry for 5 hours or less
because heat will make the JB dry quicker. Wrap a tie wrap around the belly
of the projector, right next to the mountin plate. But leave it loose for now.
use 4 more tie wraps at each corner. From the back of the pro. go under the plate,
and under the tie wrap wrapped around the pro. Now you may tighten up the first
tie wrap, then trim. After that tighten up the other 4 wraps and trim. This along
with JB will for sure secure this setup from moving.
Now you must place the projector back on to the aiming screws. Fine tuning will
be done later.
I do have another stock projector from my last headlight. I will retrofit that
into the reflector bowl of the lowbeam to run dual projectors. I will paint all
chrome housing with high temp matte black paint for a stealthy look. After all
that pretty chrome will no longer be used.
I originally planning to retrofit an hid projector from Acura.
But I decided to give what I had, a shot. The stock projector.
The reason for all this is because just by only using a plug and
play hid kit, it is improper because usable light is scattered
everywhere and ends up in oncomming driver's face. But there is
one problem with using hid bulb with stock projector. Because of
the longer hid bulb over halogen, the light output is actually
turned upside down. So you have a cut off on the ground, and
flooding light into the atmosphere, and guess where it ends up?
Exactly, in the drivers face. Here is my remedy for this.
Here is how it is done.
What you will need:
Screw driver - use a flathead you do not care about
philips screwdriver
JB weld
tie wraps
Socket wrench 10mm
and last but not least, your Wifes oven
You know the routine! Disconnect all wires, and bulbs etc so
you have only the headlamp assy. Good idea to clean the outer
lense with soap and water, then dry off. MAKE SURE you check clearance
between your headlamp and top heating coil of the oven before you heat.
Place your headlamp in the oven and bake on 250 degrees.
Check every
3 mins by taking lamp out, being carefull not to touch the clear lense
and start prying the assy from bottom half. it is held together with
epoxy glue. It took around 10 min for me, to where the glue was soft
and pulled apart easy. Just use the screwdriver to pry at each clip
and it will separate easily.
Now what you want to do is, back out the screws used to adjust the projector
assy. The will be the lower three bolts. The projector will come out after this.
Now, what you want to do is use that philips driver and unscrew the 4 small screws.
Doing this will allow for you to remove the projector from the mounting plate,
and turn the upside down, 180 degress. Looking through the back of the projector
the cut off plate should be on the bottom now.
There are 2 nipples on each side that will allow you to have correct straight
positioning. But you will be unable to use screws to secure it back to the
mounting plate. But this is where good ole JB weld and tie straps come in.
Mix some JB together and spread it over the mounting tabs
where the screws holes are. The projector has a little weight to it.
And I have used it to my advantage. In its drying position, the projector has
to be sitting onto the mounting plate. I found and old cup and sit the projector
onto the cup. The mounting plate overhung each side of the cup to suspend it.
I let it dry for about 7 hours. You can only let dry for 5 hours or less
because heat will make the JB dry quicker. Wrap a tie wrap around the belly
of the projector, right next to the mountin plate. But leave it loose for now.
use 4 more tie wraps at each corner. From the back of the pro. go under the plate,
and under the tie wrap wrapped around the pro. Now you may tighten up the first
tie wrap, then trim. After that tighten up the other 4 wraps and trim. This along
with JB will for sure secure this setup from moving.
Now you must place the projector back on to the aiming screws. Fine tuning will
be done later.
I do have another stock projector from my last headlight. I will retrofit that
into the reflector bowl of the lowbeam to run dual projectors. I will paint all
chrome housing with high temp matte black paint for a stealthy look. After all
that pretty chrome will no longer be used.
