Header change
- Thread starter JET-A
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Ludicrous Speed
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You don't HAVE to pull either, and I have done it both ways. I feel it is worth the few extra minutes pulling the radiator out to keep from bending up the fins on it. The Oil cooler stays on unless you have to remove it to bend a tube or something.
Trucker Mike
Registered
Dude, I have never worked on a bike prior to buying my busa 3 weeks ago. The first night, I had the plastics off, windscreen changed, signal lenses changed, exhaust taken down, and new exhaust hung.
Yes, you really need to pull the radiator and oil cooler down and let it move forward against the front fender. you can full them both down together without splitting them up. put a rag over the fender to protect it. it's not that hard. 4 bolts, and 2 electrical connections on the left side to be undone, and then you can move it forward. and you'll have to snip 2 wire ties holding back some wires and a rad hose. easy easy easy!
Besides, yer gonna ding the radiator a bit even with it moved forward, so I don't know how ANYONE could get the header off without moving it.
a tip: the two middle flanges get caught up on the cross tube for the center downtubes. that is how you ding the radiator. take some tape and some washers or something and tape around under the middle flanges so they dont slide down. the 2 outer ones will go all the way to the collector, and out of the way.
you'll need new exhaust gaskets. they run about 6 bucks each. pay attention to the way the exhaust gaskets come out of the motor. you'll have to reach your finger in there and slide them out, normally. when you put the new gaskets in, make sure the side with the 2 little tabs is facing AWAY from the motor. those tabs bend out when you slide them in, causing the gasket to stay in when inserted. i used a little red high temp RTV when I installed my exhaust. then when you put the new header on, finger tighten the bolts until both bolts are evenly holding the downpipe on. after you have everything aligned, exhaust hung, slip-fits connected and springs on, THAT'S when you tighten the header bolts. do each of the 2 header bolts 1/2-1 turn at a time, rotating back and forth until at the proper torque specs.
do it right, and you'll have less of a headache.
the worst part i have found, is when putting the rad/oil coolers back on. that middle bolt is a weird one to get lined up, but you'll get it. i found that by loosening the bolts from the block that attach that bracket, and allowing it to come away from the block a bit, helps line up the bolt better. then use a 1/4 inch drive to tighten the bracket back down. there's room to get in there with the exhaust on and rad/oil cooler back in place.
if you get stuck, call me and i'll tell you what to do. it's so much better to save the money than to pay a shop $75-80/hour to swap them. pm me me you want my cell for when you do it.
Yes, you really need to pull the radiator and oil cooler down and let it move forward against the front fender. you can full them both down together without splitting them up. put a rag over the fender to protect it. it's not that hard. 4 bolts, and 2 electrical connections on the left side to be undone, and then you can move it forward. and you'll have to snip 2 wire ties holding back some wires and a rad hose. easy easy easy!
Besides, yer gonna ding the radiator a bit even with it moved forward, so I don't know how ANYONE could get the header off without moving it.
a tip: the two middle flanges get caught up on the cross tube for the center downtubes. that is how you ding the radiator. take some tape and some washers or something and tape around under the middle flanges so they dont slide down. the 2 outer ones will go all the way to the collector, and out of the way.
you'll need new exhaust gaskets. they run about 6 bucks each. pay attention to the way the exhaust gaskets come out of the motor. you'll have to reach your finger in there and slide them out, normally. when you put the new gaskets in, make sure the side with the 2 little tabs is facing AWAY from the motor. those tabs bend out when you slide them in, causing the gasket to stay in when inserted. i used a little red high temp RTV when I installed my exhaust. then when you put the new header on, finger tighten the bolts until both bolts are evenly holding the downpipe on. after you have everything aligned, exhaust hung, slip-fits connected and springs on, THAT'S when you tighten the header bolts. do each of the 2 header bolts 1/2-1 turn at a time, rotating back and forth until at the proper torque specs.
do it right, and you'll have less of a headache.
the worst part i have found, is when putting the rad/oil coolers back on. that middle bolt is a weird one to get lined up, but you'll get it. i found that by loosening the bolts from the block that attach that bracket, and allowing it to come away from the block a bit, helps line up the bolt better. then use a 1/4 inch drive to tighten the bracket back down. there's room to get in there with the exhaust on and rad/oil cooler back in place.
if you get stuck, call me and i'll tell you what to do. it's so much better to save the money than to pay a shop $75-80/hour to swap them. pm me me you want my cell for when you do it.
Trucker Mike
Registered
also, i strongly suggest you pick up some adhesive backed heat shield and line your fairing with it where the new exhaust pipes run. i already melted my brand new bike because they were too close.
Trucker Mike
Registered
hmmm. yeah i might have been able to reuse them, but i screwed up when tightening the bolts and ruined mine. Either way, i think it might pay to have an extra set on hand just in case. i bought two sets when i bought my new ones.
THANKS!!
I feel the same about paying someone that much money, and I would like to have the knowledge associated with the bike I ride.
I will shoot you a PM when I am ready. I have a daughter getting married in 3 weeks, so it will be after all those invoices get paid. Hopefully about a month to 6 weeks.
Thanks for your time and expertise.
I feel the same about paying someone that much money, and I would like to have the knowledge associated with the bike I ride.
I will shoot you a PM when I am ready. I have a daughter getting married in 3 weeks, so it will be after all those invoices get paid. Hopefully about a month to 6 weeks.
Thanks for your time and expertise.
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