I had a quick question. If I remove the head, is it really nessary to replace the gasket. They are not cheap. Has anyone had luck not changing it? I didnt want to take a blind chance and have to do it again? Thanks for any input.. Oh one more thing, any tips on flipping the engine whithout removing top end? Thanks
Head gasket replacment
- Thread starter Busadan1
- Start date
In the same boat also, not sure what you mean by "flipping the engine" w/o removing top end. Do you mean engine performance wise or physical removal of the engine? Read a post that has done a cylinder gasket w/o removing the engine, but seems like it would be more trouble than what its worth for just dropping th engine. I'm half way through removal process.. My garage is starting to look like a parts graveyard.
On the same topic; I've been researching posts that mention copper spray. You think its' recommended to use a "copper spray sealant" on the new OEM cylinder gasket? Like you said... those sucka's aren't cheap.
Like this one >> Linky: Copper spray-a-gasket
On the same topic; I've been researching posts that mention copper spray. You think its' recommended to use a "copper spray sealant" on the new OEM cylinder gasket? Like you said... those sucka's aren't cheap.
Like this one >> Linky: Copper spray-a-gasket
isiahstites
Registered
I would replace the gasket and I use the copper spray as well.
Is it really worth your time and effort to take the bike down to the cylinder only to put an old gasket in to have it leak so you can do it all over again?
YES! Replace the gasket. I've replaced mine several times, chasing a coolant leak (ultimately cracked head). I've done both pulling the engine and leaving it in...it's worth the extra few minutes to pull the engine.
I've NEVER used anything other than the gasket. Make sure your mating surfaces are CLEAN. I use lacquer thinner to clean ALL oil from the mating surfaces, bare gasket (I've used OEM and Cometic)...reassemble.
I've NEVER used anything other than the gasket. Make sure your mating surfaces are CLEAN. I use lacquer thinner to clean ALL oil from the mating surfaces, bare gasket (I've used OEM and Cometic)...reassemble.
So it is not necessary to send off the head to get it resurfaced before you put in a new gasket? I was under the impression that a head resurface was a "must do" to ensure a clean mating surface and that the head is not warped / pitted in any way.? Also if you had to do it all over again (God forbid) would you go w/ a OEM or Cometic gasket? From what I've been researching... OEM is the only way to go?
And thank you for the lacquer thinner tip ; I'll be picking some up tomarrow.
So it is not necessary to send off the head to get it resurfaced before you put in a new gasket? I was under the impression that a head resurface was a "must do" to ensure a clean mating surface and that the head is not warped / pitted in any way.? Also if you had to do it all over again (God forbid) would you go w/ OEM or Cometic? From what I've been researching... OEM is the only way to go?
And thank you for the lacquer thinner tip ; I'll be picking some up tomarrow.
Depends on why you're pulling it apart in the first place. I sent the head off twice to get resurfaced (well, the old head once and the new (used) head). One the 2nd time I pulled the head, I was confident that it wasn't warped...that there had to be a crack, so I just pulled it and then put a new gasket upon replacement...
If you're not doing any engine work, sticking with OEM is fine (and a little cheaper). If you're planning on turbo or NOS, I'd go with Cometic...and also consider replacing the head bolts with studs...
Blowing bubbles from overflow when hot. Took all trouble shooting steps you recommended and replc'd damn near the whole coolant system. Maybe cracked head as well, I'm halfway tore down. I'm spraying also so Cometic it is.
I'm wanting to send to APE for resurface, inspection for hairline cracks and heavier springs.
Now off i go to research studs...
HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER STUDS AND NUTS
???
thanks again.
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