Hayabusa Fuel Pump
- Thread starter jordinion
- Start date
DSBusa UK
Registered
Hi delbert - the mechanic in the shop said he stripped and cleaned the unit fully, replacing the o rings in the process... Considering he charged me £300 in labour to strip the damn thing, I would hope that the filters were clean after all that!
He works on race bikes and is supposed to be a Busa specialist, so I'm hoping the addition of a new battery may cure the problem - or failing that, swapping the cdi/ecu from another fully working bike might show up a fault on mine.
In the meantime I'll be patiently waiting for a phone call from him to tell me the bike's finally fixed - it's cost me £1000+ this year to try and get her back on the road, and 5 months later I'm still having to catch the bus to work - upto 2 hours each way to do a journey that takes 15 minutes on the bike, and my bus pass costs me more than my fuel costs as well....
Dave.
He works on race bikes and is supposed to be a Busa specialist, so I'm hoping the addition of a new battery may cure the problem - or failing that, swapping the cdi/ecu from another fully working bike might show up a fault on mine.
In the meantime I'll be patiently waiting for a phone call from him to tell me the bike's finally fixed - it's cost me £1000+ this year to try and get her back on the road, and 5 months later I'm still having to catch the bus to work - upto 2 hours each way to do a journey that takes 15 minutes on the bike, and my bus pass costs me more than my fuel costs as well....
Dave.
delbert
Registered
wooo that sounds a lot of dosh , i would say its a 3 hour job tops , the other problem that can occur is the tiny filter screens on the injectors can clog .
apparently suzuki did away with them on later models , you cannot replace them as they are part of the injector but they come off easy , i took mine off when i did the pump and discarded them
Any longer off the road you will qualify for a free bus pass !!!!!! good luck , keep us all posted
apparently suzuki did away with them on later models , you cannot replace them as they are part of the injector but they come off easy , i took mine off when i did the pump and discarded them
Any longer off the road you will qualify for a free bus pass !!!!!! good luck , keep us all posted
Chris_IPTE
Registered
Blimey what fun...
I have found the fault on mine, the fuel pump. Checked the TPS, IAT, IAP, CPS and Engine temperature sensor manually and they were all good. I bit the bullet and took the bike, limped it there in fact, to a bike shop and they pressure tested the fuel lines and found out that I was only getting 3 bar occasionally and more often than not it was only 1.5 bar, the fuel pump was not always priming correctly. I was really lucky to find out that if during a fuel stutter that if I hit the kill switch and waited 3 to 4 seconds whilst coasting along and then switched it back on it would run for another 10 minutes.
I sort of came to the same conclusion whilst testing as when on tick over it was about to stall I just lifted the tank up (giving a little more fuel pressure) and it would continue to run, but as soon as I loaded the engine it would stutter and stall.
Got a new Inline Sytec External Pump, Filter and Sytec Fuel Pressure Regulator that I will fit soon.
SOOOOOo happy!!
Will post if it solves the problem...
Chris
I have found the fault on mine, the fuel pump. Checked the TPS, IAT, IAP, CPS and Engine temperature sensor manually and they were all good. I bit the bullet and took the bike, limped it there in fact, to a bike shop and they pressure tested the fuel lines and found out that I was only getting 3 bar occasionally and more often than not it was only 1.5 bar, the fuel pump was not always priming correctly. I was really lucky to find out that if during a fuel stutter that if I hit the kill switch and waited 3 to 4 seconds whilst coasting along and then switched it back on it would run for another 10 minutes.
I sort of came to the same conclusion whilst testing as when on tick over it was about to stall I just lifted the tank up (giving a little more fuel pressure) and it would continue to run, but as soon as I loaded the engine it would stutter and stall.
Got a new Inline Sytec External Pump, Filter and Sytec Fuel Pressure Regulator that I will fit soon.
SOOOOOo happy!!
Will post if it solves the problem...
Chris
Chris_IPTE
Registered
Sorted,
Bloomin fuel pump, reg, filter combo changed out.... Runs as sweet as a nut! Whoop!
Bloomin fuel pump, reg, filter combo changed out.... Runs as sweet as a nut! Whoop!
I have a 2000 Busa with the same fuel pump problem. Can anyone tell me how to connect a Bosch pump because the bosch pump has only got an inlet and outlet and not an extra outlet back to the tank. If anybody had put in a bosch pump can you supply me with a part no?
The stock lines collapse with heat around them for sure! I have fixed 2 other 99's like this!
With the HP line you need to make sure the lines are not kinking, in the bends!
With the HP line you need to make sure the lines are not kinking, in the bends!
You also need a regulator, to go with the pump!
Dear Chris,
Sorry my intrusion, I'm writing from Italia and we are on Hayabusa itelia club and some our 99 busa have the some problem. I personally am on this problem until one year, and not yet solved.
I change the pump,the inside filter,clean the injector, strongly close the pump contact, but NOTHING. remain to change the fuel hose and don't know what else
Please: how do You solve the problem on Your busa, if You buy some not OEM pieces, please inform me what and where You buy it.
It is my last try before sell my busa (SIGH). If you had a good results with your changement, please help me.
Sorry for my terrible English & Thanks a lot 4 help
markenaim
Busabim
Registered
SOLUTION to 1999/2000 Fuel pump issues: Bike has 5000km since upgrade and in hot weather, no problems anymore....
Stock fuel pump with secondary low pressure fuel pump ( 3-4 PSI) is the same solution used on boats... No more vapour lock in fuel lines as they are always flowing gas now ( no longer gravity fed)
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/173676-cheap-solution-99-2000-fuel-pump-problems.html
Stock fuel pump with secondary low pressure fuel pump ( 3-4 PSI) is the same solution used on boats... No more vapour lock in fuel lines as they are always flowing gas now ( no longer gravity fed)
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/173676-cheap-solution-99-2000-fuel-pump-problems.html
Dears,
is it no possible enlarge the hole in 99 tank and install the in-tank pump/level indicator?(after close the small hole for filter)
bye and sorry for eventually bad query
regards mark
Telboy2000
Registered
always start at the tank and clean / replace as you go to the pump.
Filter in the tank get clogged easily which effects things when low on fuel.
Fuel lines should be replaced every 4 years as with brake lines but no one seems to follow Suzuki's advise...both tend to doze and cause problems.
Dozed fuel lines simply collapse and won't flow enough fuel to meet the engines needs causing air locks.
Fuel pump has its own filter and due to some materials used within the pump it clogs ...easy enough to strip and clean but sometimes needs the internals placed in the freezer for a while to help get it all back together.
Injectors do indeed have tiny mesh filters which can clog if they get bad / old fuel or water ingress which is sorted with ethanol.
Get a service manual and set aside half a day to do all this and buy a very good quality star / philips screwdriver and spare hose clips before starting ( screw heads are soft and easily damaged )....even if the bike has a full service history replace the fuel lines at the very least...cheap enough at £27 for both from Suzuki.
Filter in the tank get clogged easily which effects things when low on fuel.
Fuel lines should be replaced every 4 years as with brake lines but no one seems to follow Suzuki's advise...both tend to doze and cause problems.
Dozed fuel lines simply collapse and won't flow enough fuel to meet the engines needs causing air locks.
Fuel pump has its own filter and due to some materials used within the pump it clogs ...easy enough to strip and clean but sometimes needs the internals placed in the freezer for a while to help get it all back together.
Injectors do indeed have tiny mesh filters which can clog if they get bad / old fuel or water ingress which is sorted with ethanol.
Get a service manual and set aside half a day to do all this and buy a very good quality star / philips screwdriver and spare hose clips before starting ( screw heads are soft and easily damaged )....even if the bike has a full service history replace the fuel lines at the very least...cheap enough at £27 for both from Suzuki.
Dear Chris_IPTE,
PLEASE couldn't you indicate what kind of external pump & regulator You bought for solve your problem ?
I became crazy for solve, I disassemble the pump and understand that Suzuki put 4 filters-step in fuel line of hayabusa99: in tank, before the pump, after pump, before injectors. Following models only 2!
Changing the pump it's possible eliminate two steps and permit more flux than original.
Thanks for Your attention and reply
Best Regards
Markenaim (Milan)
Busabim
Registered
At the end of the day Suzuki abandoned the external fuel pump for a good reason. There is so much heat under the tank at summer temperatures it is unreal that the bike doesn't cut out more often!
Those who have a 99/2000 and do not have an issue are real lucky. The design is seriously flawed and needs a solution.
BB
Those who have a 99/2000 and do not have an issue are real lucky. The design is seriously flawed and needs a solution.
BB
Dears,
The following series 2002 to 2007, have a simplify system, suzuki install only two step of filter instead four step present in 1999/2000 series an incredible bottleneck.
Suzuki remove the filters inside the body pump after and before the pump, because in the new series the pump has one filter before pump and filter before injector and no other. the restriction on flow-rate and pressure is evident.
I intend try to transform the job of first model pump(four filtration step) in second series pump job, removing the two filter steps inside the pump, eventually inserting a inline filter between tank and pump.
What do you think on my mind (sorry for my terrible and incomprehensible English)
bye Markenaim
Busabim
Registered
As long as you have sufficient external filtration you can remove some of the internal filters, BUT the filter the holds the fuel pump in the assembly must be cut out very carefully and the harness kept or the fuel pump will flop around inside the housing!
It is the small screen at the bottom of the fuel pump and it clogs very easily.
Do you understand?
BB
It is the small screen at the bottom of the fuel pump and it clogs very easily.
Do you understand?
BB
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