Gen 1 Hayabusa pinch bolt issue

[argyle66]

I did a search and didnt find an answer... I replaced my tire and no issues removing front tire.

When I went to put it back on I got out my torque wrench and was sinching up the pinch bolts to 16.5 ft/lbs

As i reached 15 ft/lbs the bolt started twirling in the pinch bolt hole. WTF stripped inside.

I looked and it goes all the way through. My idea was to get a longer bolt and put a nut on the end to hold in place and tighten to the specified Torque number.

The challenge has been finding an 8mm bolt long enough and with threads all the way. I figure about a 2 1/2 inch 8mm should do it with a nylock nut

any thoughts??

What exactly do these pinch bolts do once the Axel is tightened and can I get away with a stripped one ??

 

[GIXERHP]

That or a Heli Coil. then you can use the same bolt.

It might be a bit of a challenge, to install a Heli coil since the threaded side is not on the surface, but it can be done, with patients!

 

[David Offor]

Yehr defietely helicoil steel inserts are much better than ally thread and a nut and bolt would not look nice on a busa .

 

[kitchener rider]

any fastener store should have that, just remember that if it is case hardened it is a one use only,, heli coil is the way to go. if you have a buddy in a machine shop they should have kits, its a five minute job, I have done lots of them over the years.

 

[1bondoman]

Might be a PIA to helicoil considering you have to drill the hole out bigger. But at the same you will be drilling the other hole that doesn't have threads to. So in turn the thread less hole will be larger and also weaker. Then trying to tap the threads for the helicoil through the first hole would be a PIA to.
I personally would avoid all that and use a longer bolt with a nut and avoid all the headaches.

 

[RedBusarider]

Might be a PIA to helicoil considering you have to drill the hole out bigger. But at the same you will be drilling the other hole that doesn't have threads to. So in turn the thread less hole will be larger and also weaker. Then trying to tap the threads for the helicoil through the first hole would be a PIA to.
I personally would avoid all that and use a longer bolt with a nut and avoid all the headaches.

I agree ^^^

However I would drill and tap it from the rear side and then you wouldn't be enlarging the clearance hole for the original bolt.
How ever to do a good job you would then need a flat bottomed tap - then the helicoil couldn't move at all. My concern also would be a
little weakling of the metal in that area.

You have to use a longer bolt and if the threads are stripped then the bolt may go through without any drilling.

So the easy way is a bolt and a locknut. Paint the nut black and it should blend pretty good - and only us Busa owners would notice.

 

[FlatlandBusa]

I replied to your other thread...

Helicoil it! The end result will stronger threads than stock.

Just be careful to keep the tap and drill perfectly lined up.

 

[RedBusarider]

The problem with helicoiling it is, first you have to find and buy the correct size helicoil.
Then you have to drill and tap and insert the coil and stake it down. All while hoping you have drilled it straight
and tapped it straight too etc.

Using a longer bolt and a nut maybe all that is needed as like I said earlier, if the threads are stripped then no drilling
may be needed. So a lot less work. I don't believe that you need a lot of strength in that area either.
Also it seems like the OP indicated that only one was bad, so one by it's self might work just fine but 2 is probably better.

Heck. if it's just a case of not allowing the axle bolt to back out - then drilling a tiny hole and wire tying it might be
another pretty simple way to make sure that doesn't happen. ???

Well hopefully the OP will come back and tell us which way he went. lease:

 

[argyle66]

Still having a heck of a time. Sorry I put this in two threads should have put here first.

Yeah hell oiling seems iffy as not much meat there and if I screw up that's a big expense. I'm with the above one bolt is in and torqued nicely. I see no reason not to run a long bolt through and nut it. Get to the proper 16.5 lb torque and done.

Finding a threaded 8 mm bolt that long remains the challenge.


Currently so I can get riding I cut some 8 mm ready rod and double jutted both ends to torque values. A true hack job but good enough until I get the proper bolt.

Was thinking of doing all 4 if I find the proper bolts so it looks like it was meant to be there. Probably stronger too.

 

[RedBusarider]

Thanks for the info.

Personally I would not touch the left side as those never need to be loosened to remove the front wheel.
Also most of the time you can't see both sides of the bike at the same time so it won't matter to much if one side is different.
Then you would only need one or two bolts to do the right side.

But it's your bike and you can do what you want - just throwing out my 2 cents.

 

[kitchener rider]

heli coil does not make you part weaker, it brings the major and minor threads back to oem size which brings wall thicknesses back. its the better way to go.

 

[jellyrug]

It's been a long time since I have encountered a stripped thread, and I have never tried this, but here it is for what it is worth.